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Old 07-30-2009, 08:42 PM   #91
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Why wouldn't a few coats of DryLok work??

http://www.ugl.com/drylokMasonry/masonryWaterproofer/latex.php

I had a couple of bearly damp spots once in a blue moon down in my basement before I built my bar. A couple of gallons of that stuff and I haven't had even a whiff of dampness (and i have access the spots and have checked)

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Old 07-30-2009, 08:51 PM   #92
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You could always do this dricore I have seen this at Home Depot . You do have to use cement board over it to lay down ceramic tiles.

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Old 07-30-2009, 09:01 PM   #93
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You could always do this dricore I have seen this at Home Depot . You do have to use cement board over it to lay down ceramic tiles.
I have seen this stuff before. Like the picture shows it's basically a plastic bottom that elevates a "subfloor" and creates a partial water barrier. I have never talked to anyone who has used it but seems like a decent option. Who know how expensive it is though.
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Old 07-30-2009, 10:02 PM   #94
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DryLoc is great stuff. Only thing is it aint worth a crap on top of the epoxy. you wont get all the epoxy off to be able to use DryLoc.

DryLoc could have been used before or instead of Epoxy then a wood floor. but I think and i admit i don't know but my experience with DryLoc is that it will not work now that there is that epoxy on the floor.

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Old 07-30-2009, 10:39 PM   #95
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I had this trouble in a washroom years ago. The original installer didn't put down any plastic (vapor barrier) under the rebar. Back then, the only solution was to break up the slab and repour it. I put an addition on the house and redid the slab then. There have been many advancements since then. First, I would have a slab specialist come look at it. Your avatar says you're form NY so they will be familiar with the most up to date info. It will be worth the consultation fee. If you don't seal it, nothing that attaches to the floor will work for long. As soon as moisture gets between the slab and the thin set, the tile will pop up. If dry-lok will work, you can remove the epoxy. Contact the manufacturer for a solvent that will remove the stuff that didn't harden and, if nothing else, you can rent a small sandblaster to remove the hardened stuff. Finally, even if you use one of the floors that just lay down over the slab, if you don't seal it, you will have mold and it will wick up through your walls. Hope this helps. Luck - Dwain

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Old 07-31-2009, 02:13 PM   #96
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DryLoc is great stuff. Only thing is it aint worth a crap on top of the epoxy. you wont get all the epoxy off to be able to use DryLoc.

DryLoc could have been used before or instead of Epoxy then a wood floor. but I think and i admit i don't know but my experience with DryLoc is that it will not work now that there is that epoxy on the floor.
I'm thinking tryin' to get the epoxy up and then a couple gallons of Dryloc would be better than breaking up the concrete.

There's gotta be something you can drop down on it that it'll eat that epoxy up.... paint thinner, etc.

Again... I'm just thinking it would be a heck of a lot easier and cheaper to go that route first before you start breaking up concrete or laying down vapor barriers and laying another floor on top of it.
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:54 PM   #97
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Lots of good ideas here. Thanks for the feedback guys. We dont want to break up the foundation, its not going to happen. So that would leave us with two options, using another $120 worth of paint remover/solvant to remove the $200 of floor epoxy, then applying DryLoc and Epoxy all over. I estimate that to cost about $500 based on the current stuff we have already bought.

The other option is to build a raised floor. Put down a vapor barrier, put down hard foam insulation on top, put in a drain while we are there, and put some wood on top. The vapor barrier +foam insulation should provide us with protection from the water as well as better insulation and a drain to clean everything off.

I am starting to think a slightly raised floor may be the best bet as it offers more of a physical barrier, similar cost, and adds the benefits of better insulation, floor drain, and comfort standing all day. Luckily one of our fathers is a carpenter and there is a good chance he will be able to do this (along with the moldings) for a minimal cost. On a related note, here is a picture of a tap handle he made for us. We will be using it to mold plastic tap handles from(its red because we are sanding it smooth for molding.)

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Old 07-31-2009, 03:06 PM   #98
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wouldn't a wood floor be a disaster for a brewery? I'd be thinking about a barrier, hardibacker board and tile with a floor drain. You can use the rubber commercial kitchen mats for comfort. That tap handle is beautiful.

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Old 07-31-2009, 04:01 PM   #99
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I agree, go with tile and be done with it. Wood frame subfloor with drain, backer board, tile, grout, seal...Easy cleanup and washdown. My old house had 1/2 finished basement that was our living room, the rug was on a subfloor which was laid on poly/vapor barrier on top of the concrete floor. The nice thing is that the concrete and moisture under the subfloor can breath by being open along the end. Have the drain just go to the outside of the garage wall and dump on the ground. For the minimal times you'll use it it won't be worth connecting it to anything else and add more labor...that is unless you can connect it very easily.

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Old 07-31-2009, 05:37 PM   #100
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wouldn't a wood floor be a disaster for a brewery? I'd be thinking about a barrier, hardibacker board and tile with a floor drain. You can use the rubber commercial kitchen mats for comfort. That tap handle is beautiful.
You would need hardibacker for laying the tile on but this would be put on top of the wooden subfloor. Although some people do lay tile directly on particle board or plywood it is not ideal especially if you have heavy mash tuns and what not that are going to "flex" the subfloor and crack the tile. This would be my reasoning for the hardibacker (cement board).
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