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Old 01-17-2014, 04:34 PM   #31
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Well i was going to screw in from the inside anyways as well as glue, so if the gluing doesnt end up working that's alright

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Old 01-18-2014, 05:47 AM   #32
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Another Friday, another night drinking and not doing much.

Got the wood cut for the right side cabinet.

With the 1" overhang on the front i have ill have 12" up front for wine bottles(i measured a few we have and they were like 10-11" but i know some whites are longer so it gives some wiggle room), and gives us just under 18" usable space in the back. I'll probably do what Dfess mentioned and drill peg holes for moveable shelves, im guessing 3 will fit as its about 30" high, including the bottom gives us 4 shelves.

I was able to successfully screw the cabinet cubby in from the backside with a few half inch screws so no glue was needed and its not going anywhere and should give a nice study base for me to hang the outer 1/4" plywood on.


Looking at the picture i realized my workspace is getting pretty dirty and cluttered, definately need to clean up a bit tommorrow
We looked at a bunch of various wood flooring samples at HDepot to get an idea of what we want the inset to be...they actually have some pergo floors that look like slate and other various rock...may be nice to get the look without the crazy additional weight....not sure what we plan to do on that yet.

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Old 01-19-2014, 04:38 AM   #33
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Day 11 - Got the wine shelves set, thankfully SWMBO was around and able to help me hold them in place while i screwed them in from the side. I also put glue on the end and shot some finishing brads in. I didnt want to use screws from the inside of the cabinet if i didnt need to since it will be visible. They seem very sturdy considering they are held in with two screws, 2 nails and some glue. A bit of glue got on the joints but i dont care, this entire area will be stained and invisible unless you took a flashlight and shined it into the wine holes, so if the stain doesnt take up well in the back around the joints i wont care



Hope to duplicate this on the right side tommorrow and then see how far i can get to building the cabinet box for the front compartment.

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Old 01-19-2014, 02:09 PM   #34
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So here's a trick if your wife isn't around to help you out. Cut two pieces of scrap to the height dimension you want to use. Lay one on each face that the shelf will be screwed to, lay your shelf over it and tack it in. Pretty simple, and repeatable. Keep the scrap so that when you put the outside skin on, the shelf doesn't sag at all when you tack them in. Start at the bottom and work your way up your shelves.

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Old 01-19-2014, 03:00 PM   #35
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great looking stuff brother. subscribed

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Old 01-20-2014, 05:51 AM   #36
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Another day, and i think im more or less complete with the interior, now i can work on getting the exterior sheet cut then all thats left is the top and some stain! The end is finally in sight, granted its still probably another 5-7 days of work but i think im past the half way point by now...we'll see how wrong i am.

Only thing i need to rectify is the front, the top of the front box measures 42 1/8" or so, and the bottom around 42 3/8" or so. Only issue is due to my decision to stack the interior all the way to the 2x4's, then put the flat sheets up against them that they(the left and right interior sheets) are now sandwiched in between and i have no wiggle room to pull the interior box they are attached too inward, because sadly most lumber from HD/Lowes isnt perfectly flat...i chose the ones that looked good to the naked eye but its hard to tell until you chop it up and put it together. In all honesty i am not sure how to go about fixing it quite yet, but ill need to come up with a solution so my cabinet doors are not mounted at a slight angle. One solution is to just not screw the box in on the right side(the seemingly problem side), and have a small 1/4" gap between the interior 1x8 and the interior plywood sheet for a bit towards the bottom, its the act of screwing in the 1x8 to the interior sheet thats pulling it outward since the sheet has no wiggle room, in fact that may be the solution because it will all be covered by the exterior anyways, i suppose in doing so I may lose a 1/4" on the inside of some of the wine storage but i dont really care about that as they are oversized @ 6x6x12"ish as is...Other than that all the wine spots are nice and solid with screws, nails and some glue holding them all suspended. Only had one stray brad shoot upward at a shallow angle a bit and bust through the top of one of the wine shelves, not going to bother with it just hammer it down a bit to keep it out of the way...again its hidden at the back of the pitch black wine box anyways. I'm not going for any construction awards here for the interior, the interior will be fully functional even with its minor unseen defects, the exterior is where i will not allow any screw ups even if it means i need to buy another $25 of wood.

Im only using screws on sides that will not be visible, anywhere that will be visible on the interior i am using 18 gauge brads, and they seem to be working fairly well so far. The same will happen for the exterior, only 18 gauge brads will be used to hang the 3 exterior sheets, although i reckon ill need a few more than i used to hang the interior. And i will be extra cognizant of getting the flattest sheet of the 1/4" plywood i can.

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Old 01-24-2014, 06:27 AM   #37
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Not much to report the last few days. Spent one day getting the wood for the exterior and top, another night or two fixing some measurement mistakes and redoing a bunch on both sides to make them even, not sure why i didnt do it this way in the first place but w/e now its fixed.

Also we're still going through stain woes, we like the dark walnut but want it a bit darker, and multiple coats isnt getting us where we want since Oak plywood apparently stains lighter than regular oak. We really want an 'espresso" style finish to match the rest of our interior so i got some espresso stain from Varathane but even after two coats (one 5min, one 15 min) it is no where near as dark as the sample...gonna keep soaking it and hope to get it there! I have probably bought tiny jars for like 6-7 different stain types at this point!

The dark walnut looks dark until you have a light on, then it turns the lighter brown in the above picture from 1/19 when the flash went off. Im not too worried about the interior, it can be lighter but depending on what stain we use i may just put a few coats of the new color on the interior to darken it up.

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Old 01-24-2014, 08:53 PM   #38
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Got an old school hardware store nearby?
See if they have any "stove black", made for cast iron stoves, tint a few samples of stain, and try it on some scraps.
Black ink will work as well.
Then put your topcoat / sealer over that.
I'm guessin' you're going to use poly or the like?

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Old 01-25-2014, 12:26 AM   #39
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Yea, i hear there are tinted poly's as well maybe i should look into one of those....

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Old 01-29-2014, 05:30 AM   #40
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Life and other planned activities as well as general laziness and needing to plan better have slowed everything down.

I have come to the conclusion that i will probably divide the front into two separate cabinets. I am going to need two doors as it is with some type of center stile. This actually works out better in the end, because having two cabinets with adjustable shelves means we have more versatility in the shelves as we can mismatch the locations to better fit the infinite possibilities of glass sizes we seem to have acquired.

The original plan was to have one big 42" shelf, but ive started to realize doing research that pretty much all cabinets > 36" use center styles to support the cabinet from sagging, and im not entirely sure that a giant 42" shelf even if made out of oak when fully loaded wouldnt sag. I think it works better in the original because its only a ~5cuFt freezer(guesstimate based on holding 3 kegs), so the front is slightly shorter than my 7.1cuFt freezer which makes the shelf a bit long.

I tested a 1x8 with two peices of 1/4" oak plywood on either side and the shelf plugs don't touch, so this is good news.
We also decided to start with a 5" lip on the top of the front cabinet, the original didn't have to worry about this because he didnt have doors, but having doors as high as he mounted his cabinet is not really feasible and would look ridiculous. I *could* just lower the center cabinet top down 5 inches, but why bother, we may as well maintain that hidden few inches behind the front panel for larger objects, we can always stick really tall objects inward and up behind the front overhang.

I made a sketchup for the basic idea, without the wine holes drilled obviously...the brown part is the main slab used for the top, since ill probably also use 1x3's to make the lip and downward trim like the original we'll use some type of 3/4" wood flooring to fill in the center of the lid.


For those with experience putting keezers on carpet, how much clearance is realistic for the bottom shroud? I planned to leave 2" from the ground, more than enough to cover everything up using 3" wheels, i assumed after it was all loaded and on carpet it'd probably drop down 1/2" to 1" and leave enough room to actually be able to roll it around without snagging the outer shroud on the carpet.

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