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Old 01-09-2014, 05:04 AM   #11
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Slow day, spent a lot of time borrowing a friends truck, going to HDepot, buying the 1/4th inch oak plywood and getting him his truck back...got the two sides cut out, realized that the Skilsaw i borrowed really cuts about 1/8th of an inch right from where the laser is go figure...doesnt really matter anyways because there will be 2x8's put at one end so you wont even see that its a tad short.

The most annoying thing about the project so far is the inconsistency in wood size, you basically can do zero planning until you have the wood. I dont know why i didnt do this to begin with, my 2x8's for framing the side and front are really 7.5", and my 1x8's are 7.25" which is actually fine as i dont mind the shelves being a bit inset so they dont bang into the door.

The biggest problem with this is that i assumed 8" spacing on the front to get everything flush so i can mount my 3/4ths inch Oak on the outside. Now everything is about 1/2" off so im going to shim the front beams with some 1/2" plywood, easy to fix just a pain in the ass.

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Old 01-10-2014, 05:26 AM   #12
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Day 5 - Good day, got some more framing done. I realized i needed some more support lengthwise so cut some beams to support it better. Then at the end of the night realized i still need more, because my 1/4th inch plywood bows too much in the middle i need another point to nail it down. I should have gone with 1/2" for the inside but i already have $50 in 1/4" inch oak plywood so im going to use it!

Also went to HD and bought some more stuff i should have had to begin with like a giant ruler and level, and also bought a Empire cutting guide for the Skilsaw...realize i could have made my own but I would have then had an 8 foot guide i dont know where i'd put it. This ones nice because it splits into 4 foot sections.

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Old 01-10-2014, 12:04 PM   #13
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I like the design. I feel your pain with the screws stripping out. The two best tools that have eliminated that for me is the Impact driver and the star bit screws. Once I got the impact drill I realized I could use all the other type screw and rarely I'll have one strip out.

I have a feeling you wont need the locks on the wheels unless your floor is really out of level. It is nice to know they are there just incase you do. The weight of the keezer should keep it from moving.

I like the look of the cheaper wood. The plywood in the original looks like the AC grade pine I use quite a bit.

The saw guide is a good purchase. It will help your accuracy. I'd recommend cutting on the back side of the plywood so you don't get a lot of tear out.

Looking forward to following your progress. Feel free to send me a PM if you need any help. Cheers.

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Old 01-10-2014, 03:57 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by deadfall View Post
I like the design. I feel your pain with the screws stripping out. The two best tools that have eliminated that for me is the Impact driver and the star bit screws. Once I got the impact drill I realized I could use all the other type screw and rarely I'll have one strip out.

I have a feeling you wont need the locks on the wheels unless your floor is really out of level. It is nice to know they are there just incase you do. The weight of the keezer should keep it from moving.

I like the look of the cheaper wood. The plywood in the original looks like the AC grade pine I use quite a bit.

The saw guide is a good purchase. It will help your accuracy. I'd recommend cutting on the back side of the plywood so you don't get a lot of tear out.

Looking forward to following your progress. Feel free to send me a PM if you need any help. Cheers.
Thanks, yea i dont think it will move but it was an only an extra $.50 per wheel for the locks with wheels so whatever.

Unlike the original, i think im going to stain the interior once i get it up, because im also planning on using Oak on the exterior i'd like to look at the interior oak with the stain and make sure that it looks right before i go spend $60 a sheet on 3/4ths Oak Plywood.

The original guy used Walnut he said, so i may start with that because we are looking for a darker piece.
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Old 01-12-2014, 02:39 AM   #15
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Day 5 & 6

Day 5 was mostly drinking beer as its Friday night and that's the only proper thing to do, but before we left I bought 3 mini cans of stain to try out on some scrap we had. I think we've decided on the Dark Walnut, the Special Walnut is a bit too light, and the Jacobean looks similar to the Dark Walnut on the Oak, maybe a tad blacker but on the Pine that will be used for the shelves it looks really black and burnt almost. Ignore the horizontal lines across the wood, after the first 5 minute coat i decided i'd tape it off into 1/3rd sections so we would have 5, 10, and 15 minute stain soak color comparisons...turns out it made really no difference...the lines are from where the stain sucked up under the tape and puddled.

This is on Red oak plywood from Lowes. The lighting was pretty piss poor and they look a bit darker than they do with proper lighting but you get the idea.
From left to right: Jacobean, Dark Walnut, Special Walnut. Today when the SWMBO came with me inside, this other HDepot had stain samples out and we kinda liked the Red Mahogony, but after we stained our oak with it i think we still like the Dark Walnut.


Day 6 had me fitting the sides and nailing them into place with the 18 gauge brad gun, this helped a lot with the bowing thankfully. The ends still bow slightly inwards but when i frame the cabinet with 2x8's ill be flexing it out to hold it straight. Had to recut the front, not sure how but i mismeasured, it left gaps maybe 1/4th of an inch too big to be covered by the 2x8's. Thankfully because i had to get two sheets i had extra to spare. We also dry fit the freezer again because i wanted to make sure that because my cuts using the skilsaw arent always consistent that i didnt make one side too high, thankfully it looks like when i buy some 1/2" sheet or whatever for the lid it should clear everything. One side is maybe 1/4th of an inch low on the inside but will be covered by a 2x8 anyways so it doesnt really matter. Tommorrow's goal is to get the three 2x8 frames cut and in place, once thats done i think start preparing the lid next week. After that comes the stress of cutting the front panels, since ill only have enough wood for one extra panel if i screw up i need to be extra diligent in where im cutting. Im not as worried about the outer cuts as long as their close because there will be molding anyways, but the inner plunge cuts can ruin it if their too big. I may purposefully make the inner holes a tad small and clean them up with a router using my new guide.

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Old 01-12-2014, 10:23 AM   #16
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Really like your thread. Ill be following and hopefully recreating before I deploy.

Thanks

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Old 01-13-2014, 04:06 PM   #17
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Day 7 - Didnt get much done, too many errands all day by the time we got home at 6pm i was exhausted.
So i decided to stain one side of the inside with the Dark Walnut to make sure thats what we wanted, and it does look good so we're going with it.

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Old 01-13-2014, 10:04 PM   #18
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do you have any friends with woodworking tools? If so, i'd recommend getting some of the oak from HD, and ripping it down to whatever thickness you want, but using it to glue onto the edges of your 3/4" ply. Gives it a better look at the edge then the ragged plywood, or just putting corner mold on it. Just my .02.

When I see these projects, I always wished I lived closer to lend a helping hand.

What kind of casters do you have on this? All that dimensional lumber is going to be extremely heavy, not to mention once you get it all loaded down with the additional booze and wine. Don't want to see the wheels you buy at HD fail on you. Then again, I usually go "overkill" to not have any headaches down the road.

All i can add with the dimensional lumber, make sure you look every piece up and down when you pick it out. grab one end and put your nose right at the end and look out of one eye down the board. You "can" cut around a bit of a bow (virtually impossible to find straight dimensional lumber at lowes or HD), but you are screwed if you have any twist in the board.

Lastly, going on that pic in the initial post, your "end goal", that long shelf in the front. You can make the shelf itself out of the oak ply. Again, get some of that oak stock they sell there 1x1 or 1x2 should be fine (and again that "1" is really 3/4"). Stand it up on the long grain and glue the top of the long grain edge (skinny edge) to the bottom edge of the plywood face. Makes an "L". You can also buy some oak banding that has a glue backing to hide the nasty plywood edge. Anyway, gluing the piece of oak stock to that long of a shelf stiffens it so it can handle the weight of all the liquor bottles. Otherwise it'll bow over time. Again, if you have a friend that has woodworking tools, notably a table saw and a dado blade, you can cut a 3/4" rabbit a 1/2" deep on the inside face of the oak stock. Then let the rabbit sit in front of the plywood edge (negating the need for the glue on oak banding), while still giving you the stiffening that you'll need in the shelf.

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Old 01-13-2014, 10:27 PM   #19
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I know one who has some basic woodworking skills yes, i will likely be doing some type of corner molding just like the original did to hide the edges.

I went with 3" casters that are rated at 170lbs each..that gives me nearly 700lbs...the freezer is 90, all the full kegs + gas will be another 200ish...so realistically i have 350+lbs of wiggle room in wood and i am not sure if it will hit that or not... Even as it is now i can easily pick it up one end with one arm....im not sure what that says in regards to the weight overall though But i do still have a lot of the heavier bits like the 3/4th inch plywood and top to add... If i get near the end and it looks like its going to be a problem there is space for extra wheels or moving to 4" wheels. The problem will be not really knowing exactly how heavy it is since i cant just roll it on a scale...

Im not really sure what im going to do with the long shelf, my initial plan was to use dimensional 1x7's for all of the shelves. Depending on how they look stained i may veneer them or glue on some of the extra 1/4th ply on top, since the front panel "blocks" the front of the shelf i think this will work and im not enough of a perfectionist to care about the bottom side of the shelf you will never see.

I have zero wood working skills really, just an engineer with a dream Overall im happy with the progress so far, im trying to be as meticulous with wood and measuring as possible but on some parts it just doesnt matter if my cut was 1/4" short or slightly angled because its getting covered anyways. Do you think a 1x7 of dimensional lumber will bow that long? It will be somewhere around 30-36" im guessing. I looked at the oak stock, and may go that route if necessary but it was extremely expensive as well. If i remember correctly a 1x8x8' was $36 or something, but we shall see. If i can just fake it with some of the extra 1/4th ply i have glued onto a cheap $6 1x8 then ill do that

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Old 01-13-2014, 10:53 PM   #20
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Well, if you go that route with the dimensional lumber, you're locked into the shelf being at that height. You should have extra 3/4" ply leftover if you bought two sheets for this. You can easily make it so that you can adjust the shelf using shelf pins. It's really as easy as taking a piece of scrap stock, drawing a line every 1 to 2" across the face of the stock, drilling a hole. Then stand that up on the inside faces of your cubbies, and use it as a guide as to where to drill your hole for your shelf pins. Makes it repeatable, which is what you need.

Regarding the 1x7 stock bowing or not, really depends on what you're putting in there, stock and booze wise. I have a cabinet that I had to put a stiffner into the stock shelf, because I have collected too much scotch (is there really such a thing), that the shelf sags. The stock shelf is the mdf with a maple veneer on it to match the cabiet. Solid piece of maple? Maybe not sag as much with the amount of weight on it, but would still sag a bit. Piece of pine? You betcha. The strength in the grain is on the edge, not on the face.

Looking at that initial image, I think the way I would have gone about the cubbies and outside facade would have been to build boxes for the cubbies. Then take the 3/4" ply and cut square holes with a jig saw and straight edge that the boxes would mate up to. Some pocket screws on the backside would secure it all together. Pretty easy/straight forward construction with minimal tools (really just a jig saw with a good blade and a hand drill with some larger diameter drill bits to get the jig saw blade started). Would give a nice clean look to it. And again, go with the shelf pin approach for the shelves. Never know how/if your needs will change and you would want to be able to move the shelf around to fit a different bottle etc in the future. The boxes are as easy as ripping to depth the sides, top and bottom. Then cut a piece of 1/4" plywood that is the area of the box, and tack it all together. Not hard, but would take a table saw at that point.

The way I would look at this is, you're going to have time/money invested into it. Try to "future proof" it as much as you can where you can. You're not going to make another one anytime soon, right? If you never move the shelf, then you planned right. But if you can't move the shelf and want to, you'll wish you had been able to I guess is all I'm getting at.

And I'm not saying this to say you don't have a good thing going here. Not my intention at all. Just trying to think of an easy way to construct it, with some strength, that may help down the road.

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