DrunkenPig

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Ok so i've been searching and looking all across the interweb for the past 2 hrs and I haven't found the answer i've been looking for.

I'm trying to find out if i can use the fridge to have a sanke sixtel keg as well as a ball and lock keg in at the same time without much destruction of the fridge. I would love to just use a chest freezer but i live in a small apartment.

63belair

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Hey Pig,

Highly highly doubtful that you could get both of those in there at the same time (and that is with major modification to the interior of the fridge). You are able to fit 2 ball locks inside with about 2-3" to spare without hacking up the interior.

Also, just so you know, this is a BIG mini-fridge. Check out the exterior dimensions versus that of some smaller chest freezers, it may be worth your while to go the freezer route.

Fatrich

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How long of beer line has everyone been using in this setup?

jeffsciv23

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I just have a 1/4 barrel of bud light right now and when I used the five foot line that came with my tower it was pretty foamy so I bought a 10 footsection and it poured better. Ive read some topics on the mixing stick method to add resistance but havent tried it yet. I decided that this is too small to try and keep a domestic on tap and try to start trying to brew my own so I put mine on craigslist to try to recoup some cash for the keezer project.

elganso

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I'm using ~9ft of 3/16 line between 10-12PSI (depending on style) at between 38-40 degrees (with a tower setup). Pretty happy with the pour. Best bet is to get 10 or 11 feet of line and work your way down from there, depending on your preferred temp/PSI.

Side note: Before installing the lines in the tower, I used a sharpie to mark off the 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, and 5 foot length on the line. Then, as I was testing the pour and cutting the line down, it was pretty easy to gauge where I was at. YMMV.

geepmaley

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I have 8 ft of 3/16 bevlex. Seems to be fine for both beer (serve at 11-12psi) and seltzer (serve around 15, carbed at 30).

elganso

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So, I built this kegerator a little over 6 months ago and wanted to say thanks to all who have posted on this topic. In particular, I found the following builds particularly useful:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-frigidaire-kegerator-build-150576/
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-kgerator-build-176401/
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/frigidaire-model-frc445gb-mini-fridge-kegerator-conversion-89013/index23.html
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/frigidaire-model-frc445gb-keg-conversion-157618/
http://projectkegerator.blogspot.com/2010/08/project-kegerator.html

I was working on the newer model of fridge (LFPH44M4LM) and had a few additional modifications for what they're worth.

COPPER TUBING

Nothing earth shattering here. Tried to get the copper tubes as deep into the fridge as possible to conduct the cold up to the tower. On the other end, tried to get the copper as close to the shanks as I could. The shape of my regulator allowed me to thread the tubes between the dials. Thankfully they hover over the shelf in the back, so there is no interference with the kegs.

I used copper clamps on the tubes to sit them on top of my holes in the top of the fridge. I felt like I might be able to get a bit better conductivity by having a little more surface area sitting directly near/on the cooling lines. Ended up being a great fit.

elganso

Recipes 

TOWER INSULATION

The tower came with a bit of loose rubbery foam insulation and a small Styrofoam disc in the cap. I jammed as much pipe insulation foam around as I could and still clear the copper tubes. With the combination of the copper tubing and the insulation, I haven't had any problems getting a cool pour.


WHITEBOARD DOOR

This idea was taken from someone else who did something similar. I couldn't get both my kegs in and still close the door on the newer model of fridge, so I had to hack off all the plastic innards and remove a lot of foam from the door. I cut a melamine board down to size, filled the inside cavity of the door with Great Stuff and clamped the melamine down. Then, I caulked around the whiteboard. Haven't actually used it yet for writing beer notes, but at least it hides the door innards.


SOUND PROOFING

Not sure if I got a lemon, but the compressor is SUPER LOUD and quite annoying for both me and SWMBO. So, I purchased some soundproofing foam and built a bit of a "box" at the back of the fridge and also stuck some strips underneath the fridge. I fear this will be likely shorten the life of the unit, but it wasn't tolerable otherwise.












Cheers again to everyone who has contributed to this excellent mod!

Brizzo

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I am getting ready to do this fridge. My question is do you remove all the plastic from the door or do you leave a little around the edges to keep the rubber gasket/seal in place? I would like to do the whiteboard mod as I can't fit 2 kegs and the co2 in the new version of this fridge? Thanks

elganso

Recipes 

The latter. It is critical to keep the rubber gasket in place, otherwise you'll leak cool air from the edges of the door. I probably was a bit too aggressive with my door, as, when all was said and done, I wasn't getting a perfect seal (which was quite irritating). I ended up jamming a little extra pipe foam around the edges of the gasket to prop it up a bit and force it to seal against the door.

This worked fine, but, in retrospect, I probably would have given myself a little extra room around the edge of the door so I didn't interfere with the gasket. That said, it's a huge pain to remove all that plastic and the foam underneath it -- so there is a limit to how gentle one can be.