Frigidaire Model FRC445GB Mini-Fridge Kegerator Conversion - Page 18

schupaul · 10-22-2009, 03:01 AM

Mine is in the center. You have to be careful of the coils when you drill it. It is pretty easy, but time consuming getting it together. I have pics of mine on here, just search the thread for the link to them.

GamePreserve · 10-22-2009, 03:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDbrews

I just bought one tonight and will be converting it when my tower gets here this weekend. Some one said earlier in the post that a 1/6 barrel will fit in it with the sanky tap, i cant verify it put it is posted earlier... has any one put the tower towards the middle more instead of at the front or the way back? im going to attempt that and hopefully it will work. will post some pics of the finished product this weekend hopefully!!

Could you measure these 4 dimensions when you do the conversion? Thanks bud.

depth from the door to compressor hump : ??
compressor hump depth: ??
compressor hump height: ??
total inside height: ??

Also, There is some documentation of a tower mount more towards the middle. its in this thread somewhere.

schupaul · 10-22-2009, 03:04 AM

Here it is (middle mount)
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/frigidaire-model-frc445gb-mini-fridge-kegerator-conversion-89013-post1590804/

CDbrews · 10-24-2009, 10:09 PM

Schupaul, that looks very nice and mine is almost exactly the same, the rails i put on mine look just like yours. i was just wondering where you got the rail mat you use for the driptray in that small size, i have only seen them long. Did you cut it down? from the picture it looks like you didnt.

schupaul · 10-25-2009, 12:57 AM

Got it at bartools.com it is your standard glass matt just short.

CoalCracker · 10-25-2009, 10:24 PM

Just bought this fridge this weekend. Scratch and dent for 125. Small dent on the front. However I was thinking of another way to add a tower without risking the coolant lines. Couldn't you mount the tower to the top rear of the fridge, then run the lines throught the insulation to the front of the fridge where there aren't any lines. Then drill a hole in the top to bring the lines inside?

ahymq2 · 10-29-2009, 02:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kremer

That's a great looking setup! You don't happen to have the dimensions for the cabinet build do you?

I wish I had some plans to give you but it consisted of nothing more than some dimensionless sketches. I bought the Frigidaire from Lowe's and started building around that and my CO2 bottle.

I just used 3/4" pine plywood for the sides and shelves and built the frame from cheap 2x2's. The top is two layers of 5/8" particle board framed in window sash stock of all things. There is a 1/4" thick 6" wide pine board across the top where the towers mount and I left the area below that board with a 1/4 deep inset area for all the bottle tops. They are laid in just as regular floor tile, glued in place then grouted around with clear acrylic sprayed on top.

fasteddy · 10-31-2009, 03:56 PM

I finally got my corney keg, and was able too fit inside along with my 1/6 keg!
That was exactly what I was hoping for. this refrig is great!

GamePreserve · 11-02-2009, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bumbler

Yes! 2 kegs fit.

There are no extra wires. The manufactures sent the correct amount.

Some people shift it back and some remove it completely.
I did the later. Added an external T-stat.

I picked up this fridge, and am looking at ordering this Love Controller:
http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/product_view.asp?sku=9352000

My question for Bumbler is:
since wiring is my weakpoint in DIY projects, Im learining that people do either of these two, correct me where I'm incorrect:

A) plug the controller between the unit and the wall, and the entire unit comes on/off when the controller switches on/off.

or

B) Wire the controller into the unit's wiring system, replacing the factory thermostat ( as you seem to have done). Its my understanding that this can keep the unit "on" and just cycles the compressor when the controller switches on.

and Bumbler, from your picture that shows the fridge with removed thermostat, did you splice/wirenut anything together there, or just disconnect the wires from the factory controller and tape them to the side?

Does option (A) mean more "wear and tear" on the unit because it gets switched off/on everytime (or use more energy for a 'start up' each time)?
and for option B (as you say you did), did you just remove the factory, and put your Ranco between the wall and the fridge, or wire it in somehow?

I think i'll go A, because i'd rather keep it intact for now, but im wondering if simply disconnecting the thermostat will affect the Love contol plugged in between the unit and the wall socket.

Thanks to anyone who wants to give their opinion, you guys rock.

Bumbler · 11-03-2009, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GamePreserve

My question is:
since wiring is my weakpoint in DIY projects, Im learining that people do either of these two, correct me where I'm incorrect:

A) plug the controller between the unit and the wall, and the entire unit comes on/off when the controller switches on/off.

or

B) Wire the controller into the unit's wiring system, replacing the factory thermostat ( as you seem to have done). Its my understanding that this can keep the unit "on" and just cycles the compressor when the controller switches on.

Option A and option B are essentially the same thing, the only difference is where you splice the controller in.

these mini-fridges are pretty bare bones operations. No bells and whistles. If the fridge isn't running it's not using power.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GamePreserve

Bumbler, from your picture that shows the fridge with removed thermostat, did you splice/wirenut anything together there, or just disconnect the wires from the factory controller and tape them to the side?

No, nothing is splice or wire-nutted on the inside of the fridge. All splices and wire-nuts are done from the back, down by the compressor. After the mod, the 120v that was present at the factory t-stat has been disconnected. That's why all I did was secure the wires to the side of the fridge. This way I can restore the fridge back to it's original configuration someday.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GamePreserve

option (A) mean more "wear and tear" on the unit because it gets switched off/on everytime (or use more energy for a 'start up' each time)?
and for option B (as you say you did), did you just remove the factory, and put your Ranco between the wall and the fridge, or wire it in somehow?

Option A and option B place equal "wear and tear" on the unit. The compressor is either on or it's off. For the most part it doesn't matter where you break the power, as long as it's on the hot side.

I chose to completely remove the factory t-stat because I like the look better .

Quote:

Originally Posted by GamePreserve

think i'll go A, because i'd rather keep it intact for now, but im wondering if simply disconnecting the thermostat will affect the Love contol plugged in between the unit and the wall socket.

Thanks to anyone who wants to give their opinion, you guys rock.

I doubt there would be any problems or ill effects with having both the love controller and the factory t-stat intact.

With option A - I would recommend leaving the factory t-stat connected as per mfg. Just turn it to its lowest setting so power will always be allowed to pass to the compressor when your controller calls for cooling.

A few weeks ago I had sent someone instructions for the mod. I was hoping he'd write it up and take pictures of the process for all to see, since I didn't. All my pics are after shots.

Hope this helps.

Good luck.