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Old 09-27-2010, 04:06 PM   #11
PaulHilgeman
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Originally Posted by Jawbox0 View Post
How sensitive do you think it will be to the Input water temperature? I'm not totally clear on the specifics of temp control in these things?
I think the heating of the water as it goes through the heat exchanger follows an inverse exponential function, where the most temperature rise occurs right at the beginning of the exchanger. Based on this, shifting the curve downward say 10 degrees may result in a 2-3 decrease in output temp. But at this point, thats just a theory. This winter will tell though as my ground water temp gets down to about 48 degrees.

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You need to change the orfice from NG to LP, the orfice sizes are different. I don't remember which way, but I believe the NG orfice is smaller than the LP orfice so you may be able to reem the hole to the correct size.
Actually it didn't end up mattering, I think the regulator that I have on there now is about 5PSI of LP, but probably at a much slower flow rate than the 0.5PSI natural gas. If you think about it, I am probably at a lower efficiency and output than any tankless heater would be to begin with. Those things should be able to deliver 5 or more gallons per minute at somewhere around 120.

I had been pondering how to monitor the temperature, but since I am really not going to need my HLT anymore, I am going to take the brewmometer off of it and use it in a T at the output of the system.

Cant wait to use this thing on Wednesday.


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Old 09-27-2010, 06:08 PM   #12
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Those things should be able to deliver 5 or more gallons per minute at somewhere around 120.
I have a Bosch tankless water heater similar to what you have. Mine is maybe 4-5 years old and it's rated at 5 gpm at 125*.


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Old 09-27-2010, 06:16 PM   #13
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Wow, I just guessed at that one!

These days I know that they make them even bigger than that.

Either way, if you are interested in doing something like this, keep your eyes peeled, this one has a MFR date of 2001, so there have got to be some coming out of homes because of age, electronics failures etc, all you really need is a servicable heat exchanger.

Either that, or someone needs to find some all copper heat exchangers that you can build a chimney around and put a burner below. It could certainly be much smaller and lighter than what I have put together.

What will be interesting is to see how many batches I get out of this thing, I have a feeling it is quite a bit more efficient than bulk heating, the heat coming out of the vent is actually quite minimal, less than the heat that goes 'around' a pot of water anyways, and obviously a much shorter period of time.

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Old 09-27-2010, 06:24 PM   #14
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Wow, I just guessed at that one!

These days I know that they make them even bigger than that.
Mine is 200,000 btu.
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:15 PM   #15
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Think the biggest I have heard of is 250,000... but they are few and far between.

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Old 09-30-2010, 02:11 PM   #16
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I tested this out with an actual brew last night, a DFH60 clone.

It worked perfectly and I was able to get an all-grain batch done in less that 3 hours, which says alot since this was my first RIMS batch too, so lots of fooling around.

I was able to make the hot water, pre-heat the cooler, grind the grains and mash-in in about 10 minutes.

Bottom line, flash boilers are amazingly useful and has a huge impact on the brew-time.

It was also nice and quiet during the mash since I didnt have to have sparge water heating the whole time.

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Old 09-30-2010, 04:16 PM   #17
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You should see what a flash boiler generating steam can do besides heating water, boiling with flash boiler steam like GreenMonti's rig, or steam injection RIMS like I do.

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Old 09-30-2010, 04:32 PM   #18
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sounds too dangerous for me!

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Old 10-01-2010, 05:45 AM   #19
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I read all posts...All are interesting one...water filters should not be confused with devices or tablets that purify water,it remove or kill harmful bacterias from water...Rain water tank should be used for water saving...



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rainwater tanks

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