Advertise Here
Main · BrewSpace · Recipes · Wiki · Groups · Clubs · Gallery · Reviews · Video · Blogs · Store

New Product! Cool Brewing Fermentation Cooler$69.99 Brand new 2.5 Gallon Keg Pre-OrderMemorial Day Sale KegCo
Go Back   Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects



Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-11-2010, 02:58 AM   #1
Member
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central New York
Posts: 53
Default Electric Question

So I've only used a 1500w heat stick because I've yet to spring for a couple of 20amp outlets run to my deck for brewing. But recently the thought hit me...

...why not use my Dryer plug?

In my basement I have two circuits -- washer and dryer. One is labeled 20amp, and the other is the 220 outlet for the dryer. I could utilize both and do all electric brews in the basement -- two heatsticks (1500 and Other)

What size heating element could I run into a 220 outlet? Do they make GFCI for those outlets?


tlarham is offline Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2010, 03:34 AM   #2
Senior Member
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Central City
Posts: 309
Default

yes, dryer would wrk no problem should be at least a 30 amp circuit. you would only need 1 element. you could run up to a single5500 watt, maybe a 6000.
i am in process of building one that plugs into the dryer outlet myself.
bf514921 is offline Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2010, 03:42 AM   #3
Hobby Collector
 
IrregularPulse's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southern Ohio
Posts: 34,517
Default

24 A is the max you'd want to pull on a 30A breaker. (80% load)
Is it a 220V outlet or a 240V outlet?
5500W on 240V = 22.9A is really the only option on that 30A circuit,

Watts/Voltage=Current draw.

I too plan to look at using my dryer outlet and will go with either a 4500-5500W element depending what my breaker is. I haven't looked that far ahead yet.
__________________
Tap Room Hobo

I should have stuck to four fingers in Vegas. :o - marubozo
IrregularPulse is offline Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2010, 03:56 AM   #4
Death by Magumba!
 
CodeRage's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Melbourne, Fl
Posts: 2,254
Default

I run my whole brewery from my 30A dry circuit. I put in a sub panel and put a gfci in for the brewery and a 30A for the dryer.
I have 5500W for my BK and 4500W for my RIMS. I only run one element at a time. Doesn't seem to really slow me down at all.
__________________
Brutus 20e build | Electrical Primer for Brewers | Auber SYL-2362A2 PID Install & Config
So as I am walking out the door this morning I think to my self:
"self, going to work on Monday is like knowing you're going to get kicked in the nuts. You just don't know when or by who"
CodeRage is offline Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2010, 10:54 AM   #5
Member
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central New York
Posts: 53
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
Is it a 220V outlet or a 240V outlet?
Stupid Question: How do you tell the difference? The outlet looks like this: PIC! Which is why I assumed it was 220.
tlarham is offline Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2010, 11:46 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
luvhopps's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: valpo
Posts: 170
Default

A 220 outlet and a 240 outlet are the same thing, it is just a matter of terminology. The industry prefers the term 240. The outlet you show is a 220/240 standard dryer outlet, it has the two 110/120 legs and a neutral leg, but no grounding leg. They make GFCI breakers, not GFCI outlets for 220/240. The breakers run anywhere from $80 to $250 bucks.
luvhopps is offline Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2010, 11:53 AM   #7
Senior Member
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 11,620
Default

Yah, my 30A GFCI breaker was about $80, my 50A GFCI was $99 plus tax
The Pol is offline Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2010, 12:08 PM   #8
Member
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central New York
Posts: 53
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
Yah, my 30A GFCI breaker was about $80, my 50A GFCI was $99 plus tax
So would the consensus be to get a gfci breaker in there before attempting to use the dryer outlet?
tlarham is offline Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2010, 12:12 PM   #9
Vendor
Vendor Ads 
 
BargainFittings's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allen TX
Posts: 1,682
Default

Look in your breaker box for the size they used. The circuits should be marked. If they are not I would test them all and document where they go.

You can get gfci power cords. Sold for RV use.
BargainFittings is offline Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2010, 12:41 PM   #10
Hobby Collector
 
IrregularPulse's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southern Ohio
Posts: 34,517
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by luvhopps View Post
A 220 outlet and a 240 outlet are the same thing, it is just a matter of terminology. The industry prefers the term 240. The outlet you show is a 220/240 standard dryer outlet, it has the two 110/120 legs and a neutral leg, but no grounding leg. They make GFCI breakers, not GFCI outlets for 220/240. The breakers run anywhere from $80 to $250 bucks.
True, but you want to make sure of the actual voltage coming out. That will make the difference in the amperage you pull.


__________________
Tap Room Hobo

I should have stuck to four fingers in Vegas. :o - marubozo
IrregularPulse is offline Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electric Question Ohio-Ed Electric Brewing 367 11-18-2011 06:37 PM
Another electric question stevehaun DIY Projects 4 02-14-2010 04:16 PM
Another Electric Question BradN DIY Projects 5 05-07-2009 01:45 AM
Another Electric HLT Question... Beer_Maker DIY Projects 4 03-22-2009 05:59 PM
another electric HLT question kcinpdx Equipment/Sanitation 3 01-29-2009 08:07 PM





Contact Us - Top - Privacy - All times are GMT. The time now is 07:10 AM.
Copyright © Group Builder, Inc - All Rights Reserved
Craft Beer & Brewery Forum