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02-25-2010, 10:02 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 227
Likes Given: 1
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Electric Kettle Rust
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I am using an Electric Boil Keggle made from a 1 in stainless nut and a 5500W ULD heating element. I'm getting rust on the base of the heating element, and some is transferring over to the stainless steel. Just wanted to get peoples thoughts.
Is this a problem?
Is there a way to avoid this?
Thanks for the help!
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02-26-2010, 01:34 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Willamina & Oak Grove, Oregon, USA
Posts: 25,618
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Definitely a problem as wort is acidic and will dissolve the rust giving your beer an iron/metallic taste. Try cleaning the rust off and treating the area with a rust converter. This will give you an insoluble protective layer. You may have to do this several times.
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02-26-2010, 02:33 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 475
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You have a couple solutions you can try. Some folks have cleaned up the rust on the element base and the kettle, then coated the element base with silicone sealant. The solution I chose to use was to buy a magnesium fire starter at a camping store, cut it in half, and bolt it to the inside of my HLT (where I had the problem). I used a stainless steel 1/4" bolt, drilled a hole in the kettle, put the bolt in from the outside, silver soldered it to seal it, then put the magnesium block on the protruding threads inside the kettle and tightened it down with a stainless nut.
The magnesium is a sacrificial anode, and should prevent the steel of the element base from corroding, because it is a more active metal and will corrode first. You could also use a piece of aluminum, but I chose magnesium because I don't want aluminum ions in my water or beer, but don't care about magnesium ions.
Another choice would be to replace the element with a stainless steel one. Lowes has some, though I am not sure if the base is stainless or not. Next time I'm going there, I'll take a magnet and see.
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02-26-2010, 02:35 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 227
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What kind of Rust Converter
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Do you have any recommendations as to what rust converter to use?
Thanks again
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02-27-2010, 11:35 AM
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#5
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: New Bern, NC
Posts: 3,558
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From what I've read, the base of almost every element is mild steel. This is independent of the element's material. You could use more of the JB weld you used to pot your connections, and just create a thin protective layer.....or just go with the food grade silicone sealant. A sacrificial anode sounds complicated, but it isn't....you already have to drill holes in the pot...I think even copper will work 
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02-27-2010, 01:01 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaSteve
From what I've read, the base of almost every element is mild steel. This is independent of the element's material. You could use more of the JB weld you used to pot your connections, and just create a thin protective layer.....or just go with the food grade silicone sealant. A sacrificial anode sounds complicated, but it isn't....you already have to drill holes in the pot...I think even copper will work 
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So, a copper dip tube would solve the problems? Or it actually has to touch the mild steel?
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Due to recent economic crisis, stock market crash, budget cuts, and the rising cost of everything including taxes: "The Light at the End of The Tunnel" has been turned off.
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02-27-2010, 01:08 PM
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#7
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: New Bern, NC
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Actually, the idea is that you need to have 2 things:
1) An electrical pathway for electrons to travel...
2) The sacrificial anode must be more active than the metal you are protecting
Not sure if copper is less active than mild steel, especially once it forms an oxide layer.....
Aluminum is hella cheap and easy to drill...I say go for aluminum 
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02-27-2010, 01:25 PM
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#8
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Beer Herder
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Location: Elizabeth, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaSteve
Aluminum is hella cheap and easy to drill...I say go for aluminum 
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Or use an aluminum pot. Never had the slightest trace of rust in my e-kettle and it's a couple years old now.
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02-27-2010, 02:29 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 698
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So the Coghlan's firestarters(most common brand) are composed of:
97.24% Magnesium
1.21% Zinc
1.11% Manganese
0.44% Iron
The electrical pathway is the water.
Still unclear if I have to bolt it in, or can I just toss in the firestarter and fish it out upon cleanup?
__________________
Due to recent economic crisis, stock market crash, budget cuts, and the rising cost of everything including taxes: "The Light at the End of The Tunnel" has been turned off.
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02-27-2010, 04:00 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 475
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I bolted mine in place. This assured me of electrical contact. Take a look at "Cathodic Protection" on Wikipedia. The electrical path is through the metals and through the water in the pot. Pity, since I always wanted to bolt a chunk of zinc in the trunk of my car and prevent rusting.
Copper isn't active enough to protect steel according to the activity table in Wiki, but aluminum is just barely active enough.
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