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Old 10-12-2012, 01:59 PM   #61
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:26 PM   #62
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Today I brewed a English ale, 6.25lbs, mashed with 1.75 qt/lb water to grist.

The following ramp are observed (using 2 elements) in 54 degree F ambient air temp.

10:46am 116F
10:47am 117F
10:48am 118F
10:49am 119F
10:59am 132F
---- Working fine, so I stopped recording.

The attached photos are
1) the system in operation, with the mashtun exit temp and the temp on the exit of the heater
2) the clean in place. After I dump the grains, I use PBW and cycle water through the system. Since I am going to brew in the next couple of days, I will let it soak for a bit, cycle clean water and let it drain before I mash again.

let me know if there are any photos you would like to see.

Joel

img_1594r.jpg   img_1596r.jpg  
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:32 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeHavel View Post
Is there a link to the thread for the Wifi and RF temp build? I would like to take a look at this.
Here is the link:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/simp...ol-out-295021/


The parts for the WiFi device is still the AVR MEGA XPLAINED, + the WiFI board, but I am going to shoot for a low cost (no OptoIsolator) build first.

Joel
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:51 PM   #64
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As I move to an electric brew kettle, I am going to add two more tubes to this for an external electric Calandria which can bring the wort to a boil, for 5 and 10 gallon batches. I will need to use two separate 110VAC circuits, but I should save on the pump.

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Old 11-10-2012, 01:18 AM   #65
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How will this save on the pump?

I didn't see a picture of the spring in the tube. Does it rest against the sides of the tube or is it held in the middle by the rod?

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Old 11-10-2012, 04:19 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handsaw View Post
How will this save on the pump?

I didn't see a picture of the spring in the tube. Does it rest against the sides of the tube or is it held in the middle by the rod?
The rod is put through the spring and the spring is held in the middle of the tube by the rod as you suggest.

If I add two more tubes to the rims setup to be able to bring the wort to a boil in the copper, then I only need one pump, since I can re-direct the flow to mash, boil and cool.

It turns out some has done this with a conventional RIMS tube.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:39 PM   #67
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Can you post a link to where someone is boiling wort in a RIMS tube please?

I would like to boil without a propane burner or a heat stick. I do BIAB but I don't think that makes any difference in how the RIMS works.

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Old 11-13-2012, 04:19 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handsaw View Post
Can you post a link to where someone is boiling wort in a RIMS tube please?

I would like to boil without a propane burner or a heat stick. I do BIAB but I don't think that makes any difference in how the RIMS works.
Here is one reference:
http://youtu.be/_l0v5dmHN3k
There are concerns when pumping the "boiling" wort through the external calandria.

Cavitation will occur if you don't get the flow and pressure right through the pump.

I want the tube to fail safe, meaning, if the flow stops, the tube should simply shut down. I have used thermal fuses to trip if the temp outside the tube reaches a given temp. I selected these based on mashing temps, I need to recalculate them if I am going to use the tube to boil.

Also, I want to make sure there is no way for steam to build up and stop the flow through the pump, so I am studying the designs used by brewers and looking at the safetys.

I am still looking for the link I had found, the builder had a >3kw rims tube with an internal element, attached horizontally to the outflow of a pump mounted below the copper.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:44 PM   #69
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Thanks for that link.
He talks like the whole pot doesn't have to boil at once, but I gather that the whole pot has to be boiled even if a little at a time to drive off the "stinky" parts.
I hope you can find the link to the 3kw internal element builder.

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Old 11-15-2012, 11:36 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handsaw View Post
Thanks for that link.
He talks like the whole pot doesn't have to boil at once, but I gather that the whole pot has to be boiled even if a little at a time to drive off the "stinky" parts.
I hope you can find the link to the 3kw internal element builder.
Found it....
http://www.franklinbrew.org/members/jmag.html
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