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Old 09-23-2012, 09:02 PM   #51
rosienej
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Originally Posted by strumke View Post
How much additional temp control did you get by using the rod & spring? It would be one less thing to clean if I were to leave it out.

(not sure if you clean in place, but I was thinking of using tri-clamps to connect everything so I can easily disassemble for scrubbing)
Sorry, work has been getting in the way. I do have to adjust my priorities :-)

It increased the ramp, by about 1/2 to 1 degree. It is a bit hard to judge, because the losses in the system depends on the surrounding temp. But, the rate of increase by adding the spring was significant!! I think you could also narrow the tube but, the heated surface area would decrease, and you might still have laminar flow, which reduces heat transfer. Anyway, I am keeping the spring.

After the mashing is done,
1) Dump the grains
2) I fill with cold water, cycle a minute or two which I put the wort on to boil
3) Dump the water. Refill with water, and cycle some PBW though the system.
4) Drain.

I pulled and inspected the spring after 3 batches, and with the above proceedure it was like new.
Before a batch, I simply rinse (fill with a little water, and cycle for a minute) to make sure all of the connections are tight etc... And dump the water.

Then I put in the mash water for the desired thickness, wait till it hits temp. Then I add the grain, while the system is cycling. This prevents dough balls and I have yet to clog the system even when I am mashing for 10 gallons (22lbs of grain, but, it is really full).

I think it is a great little system (I am biased). Sorry for the delay.
-Joel
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:39 PM   #52
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So am I understanding correctly that you are actually running 2 of these pipes concurrently to achieve that 1*/minute temperature rise?

I love this idea. A lot. I just want to make sure I know exactly what's going on before I commit.

Also, do you have a wiring diagram for your setup?

Thanks for all the hard work. People whose minds think in this way amaze me.

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Old 09-25-2012, 11:22 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Deacon1856 View Post
So am I understanding correctly that you are actually running 2 of these pipes concurrently to achieve that 1*/minute temperature rise?

I love this idea. A lot. I just want to make sure I know exactly what's going on before I commit.

Also, do you have a wiring diagram for your setup?

Thanks for all the hard work. People whose minds think in this way amaze me.
All the parts and build photos are a few posts back.

The heater is wired in just like the RIMS tube, with a Solid State Relay controlling the power the heat tape. I put a thermal fuse in the box with the heaters just to be safe, these go inline with the power.

I will post a diagram in a bit.

Joel
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:32 PM   #54
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Here is the diagram

Joel

wire.jpg  
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:03 PM   #55
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Thanks for the diagram.

I saw the build and understand how it works, I was just wondering if the desired effect could be achieved with 1 of those units instead of two, and if the drop off in performance was significant with 1 as opposed to two.

You said you'd been running the system for a couple of years. Were you only running 1 unit up until recently? If so, what did you observe to be the efficiency difference in maintaining/controlling temperature?

Thanks again.

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Old 09-27-2012, 02:15 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Deacon1856 View Post
Thanks for the diagram.

I saw the build and understand how it works, I was just wondering if the desired effect could be achieved with 1 of those units instead of two, and if the drop off in performance was significant with 1 as opposed to two.

You said you'd been running the system for a couple of years. Were you only running 1 unit up until recently? If so, what did you observe to be the efficiency difference in maintaining/controlling temperature?

Thanks again.
I was running with two units for most of the time. In the beginning, over two years ago, I did use only one pipe, but observed < 0.25 degree rise per minute. I then added the second tube and insulated.

I think insulation made a huge difference, and you might be able to get away with only one unit, especially if you add hot water to do the step rises and batch sparge at the end.

I wanted to ramp to mash out in a reasonable time at the end, so I like the two pipe setup.


Joel
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:15 PM   #57
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I was thinking about using heat tape for lagering in a 15 gallon SS Blichmann conical during the winter (keeping it outside in a box made from insulation board). Any thoughts on how much heat tape I'd need and at what strength? This seems more feasable than something like fermwrap because of the shape of the conical and all of the fittings.

I'm hoping that I could use a lower wattage tape to keep the costs down some, but it's been a looooong time since high school physycs and I wouldn't know where to start with trying to figure it out. I can say that I'd probably use 2" insulation board to form the box, and the winters in DC can be anywhere from 0-50 degrees, depending.

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Old 10-04-2012, 04:38 PM   #58
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I was thinking about using heat tape for lagering in a 15 gallon SS Blichmann conical during the winter (keeping it outside in a box made from insulation board). Any thoughts on how much heat tape I'd need and at what strength? This seems more feasable than something like fermwrap because of the shape of the conical and all of the fittings.

I'm hoping that I could use a lower wattage tape to keep the costs down some, but it's been a looooong time since high school physycs and I wouldn't know where to start with trying to figure it out. I can say that I'd probably use 2" insulation board to form the box, and the winters in DC can be anywhere from 0-50 degrees, depending.
Here is a heat loss calculator:
http://www.thermalinc.com/math/aitkenform.htm

I did a 5'x5'x5' cube, and 0 outside temp. with a design temp of 50 degrees and came up with about 50 watts being required to maintain temp. For example a light bulb.

It really depends on fast you want to raise the temp, to maintain temp, a simple solution with a large of amount insulation and a simple heater should work.

You will still need a thermostat since even a 50watt lightbulb in a highly insulated box will, over a long time, ramp to a high temp. If not regulated

Joel
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:45 AM   #59
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Just a post to bring up this link.

There are a number of threads of people discussing issues with RIMS and HERMS, so I thought people might want to follow this thread. It works, and for 5 to 10 gallons in a well insulated system, it works very well.

I hope to post the step by step for a couple of batches I am doing the weekend. Any suggestions I will work into the system.

Joel

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Old 10-12-2012, 12:46 PM   #60
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I will mount the thermal fuses this weekend, and maybe put the mess in the box.

Too many projects.

1) Heater needs to be finished
2) Wifi and RF temp. build starting (see thread)
3) Beer in the bag needs to be finished... still rather good
Is there a link to the thread for the Wifi and RF temp build? I would like to take a look at this.
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