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**Brewpastor** · 03-14-2007, 09:47 PM

I have been working on an immersion heater for my system. I want it to be used in a variety of functions and so I am making it with 1.5” tri-clover connections.

It will be able to attach to either of my kettles to assist in heating brewing water or whatever I want to heat. It will also fit in another unit that can be attached to my pump to create a RIM unit.

This unit is the same piece I use as my hop-back and is actually an in-line filter.

**Brewpastor** · 03-14-2007, 10:19 PM

I know you can run a 240 element on 110 and I believe you end up with 1/4 the original rating. Anybody know for sure?

Monster Mash · 03-14-2007, 10:45 PM

That is correct.

If you need more electrical calculations go here and scroll down to electric heat calculator.

http://suburb.semo.net/jthornton/BeerHome.htm

**Brewpastor** · 03-14-2007, 10:52 PM

Thanks, cool spread sheets and info pages

Islandboy85 · 01-01-2012, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brewpastor

I have been working on an immersion heater for my system. I want it to be used in a variety of functions and so I am making it with 1.5” tri-clover connections.

It will be able to attach to either of my kettles to assist in heating brewing water or whatever I want to heat. It will also fit in another unit that can be attached to my pump to create a RIM unit.

This unit is the same piece I use as my hop-back and is actually an in-line filter.

Is that adapter 1 inch not or straight thread?

**OneHoppyGuy** · 01-01-2012, 07:19 PM

Here is another solution.

Islandboy85 · 01-01-2012, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OneHoppyGuy

Here is another solution.

I was also contemplating just using a 2 inch triclover end cap. I could bore a hole to match a screw in style element and use a 1 inch stainless nut on the inside of the end cap. It'll cost me about 30 bucks for the parts.

joeybeer · 01-01-2012, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Islandboy85

I was also contemplating just using a 2 inch triclover end cap. I could bore a hole to match a screw in style element and use a 1 inch stainless nut on the inside of the end cap. It'll cost me about 30 bucks for the parts.

I'm thinking the same thing.. it would just be a weldless fitting into a 2" triclamp cap instead of a kettle wall. You could remove the element and put another cap on if you wanted to brew with propane.

Islandboy85 · 01-01-2012, 08:47 PM

I think being able to remove the element completely will really help make cleaning easier. I have the keg tops left over from making my kettle an mash tun, so I figure I should be able to cut off the keg coupler and use it like a triclover ferrule. So as to not have to buy that piece as well. That will save me $6.

Islandboy85 · 01-01-2012, 09:20 PM

Well, maybe this is a compromise if cost is an issue. I'd rather only spend $30, but this is cool too.
Element Guard - Detailed item view - Copper Parts for DIY Home Distillers