Ss Brewing Technologies Giveaway!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Electric boiling tun
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 11-16-2009, 01:02 AM   #1
mr_beland
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Saint-Hyacinthe
Posts: 33
Default Electric boiling tun

I'm planning to build an electric boiling tun. The plan is to use 2 x 3000W water elements on 240V (245V exactly) and control it manualy. BUT!.. with this amount of amp (24.5A), I can't use an ordinary rheostat. Some guys here in the forum seems to use an PID thermostat, but i don't figure how you can obtain an consistant boiling. A friend of me, told me that thyristor dimmers could sustain this intensity. I seek the web, but it wasn't conclusive. Later, today, i was seeking again and i found this :
http://www.galco.com/scripts/cgiip.e...T3A-3AF20-IDEC

Is this suitable for this application. If you set it in the lowest delay range, it could give an consistent boiling without excessive fooling and evaporation rate.

I also want to weld the 1'' locknut that fit for water element on bargain fittings web site, anyone ever try this or have better ideas?

__________________

L'autre là-bas

mr_beland is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2009, 01:20 AM   #2
mr_beland
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Saint-Hyacinthe
Posts: 33
Default

Damn it... it can only sustain 3A, but there's an other model that sustain 5a...


so many deceptions... please help me...

And again... a bit of hope.. I found that
http://www.dnhindustries.com/asp/lumitron_dimmers.asp

__________________

L'autre là-bas


Last edited by mr_beland; 11-16-2009 at 01:34 AM.
mr_beland is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2009, 05:16 AM   #3
The Pol
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 11,616
Liked 54 Times on 51 Posts

Default

Using a PID is easy.

Use the MANUAL mode, set the cycle time to 1 second. Then you simply control the boil with % output. I use 70%. That is 70% on and 30% off, the entire cycle is 1 second, it sustains a boil perfectly.

A huge dimmer is going to cost you dearly.

__________________
The Pol is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2009, 07:46 AM   #4
ausdb
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 14
Default

You need to use the PID controller to drive an SSR hopefully fitted with a rather large heatsink!!

Alternately if you are familar with the Arduino environment you can make a simple project with an Arduino baseboard and a potentiometer which can drive your SSR with 0-255 steps. I have a pretty rough looking setup based on an veroboard arduino clone a linear taper pot and a 40A SSR. This is used to control the power input to a 3000W element working on 240VAC for a small boil kettle I find it works very well.

__________________
ausdb is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-16-2009, 10:12 AM   #5
OhioBrewingTechnologies
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 59
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default

Our primary product is a 3800-watt controller, but it is using a higher-current switch so upgrading is pretty easy. Let me know if you're interested in trying one out.

Dan

__________________
OhioBrewingTechnologies is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2009, 12:39 AM   #6
mr_beland
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Saint-Hyacinthe
Posts: 33
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
Using a PID is easy.

Use the MANUAL mode, set the cycle time to 1 second. Then you simply control the boil with % output. I use 70%. That is 70% on and 30% off, the entire cycle is 1 second, it sustains a boil perfectly.

A huge dimmer is going to cost you dearly.
I bought an PID temperature controller from Auber Instrument (very cheap and I got no problem) for my fermentation chamber, but it doesn't have the manual mode.

Then.. the question is, where do you buy the PID w/manual mode
The cheapest for sure!
__________________

L'autre là-bas


Last edited by mr_beland; 11-17-2009 at 12:41 AM.
mr_beland is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2009, 02:32 AM   #7
passedpawn
Waste Allocation Load Lifter - Earth Class
HBT_MODERATOR.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
passedpawn's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: ☼ Clearwater, FL ☼
Posts: 18,854
Liked 3295 Times on 2053 Posts
Likes Given: 2813

Default

Search for a variac. Used to use these for controlling AC loads. I don't believe I ever saw one for these loads, but who knows.

I think the PID+SSR route is way easier. Way. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink, though.

__________________
Hey goomba I love how you dance the rumba
But take some advice paisano learn-a how to mambo
If you're gonna be a square you ain't-a gonna go anywhere.
passedpawn is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2009, 02:32 AM   #8
passedpawn
Waste Allocation Load Lifter - Earth Class
HBT_MODERATOR.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
passedpawn's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: ☼ Clearwater, FL ☼
Posts: 18,854
Liked 3295 Times on 2053 Posts
Likes Given: 2813

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_beland View Post
I bought an PID temperature controller from Auber Instrument (very cheap and I got no problem) for my fermentation chamber, but it doesn't have the manual mode.

Then.. the question is, where do you buy the PID w/manual mode
The cheapest for sure!
What model?
__________________
Hey goomba I love how you dance the rumba
But take some advice paisano learn-a how to mambo
If you're gonna be a square you ain't-a gonna go anywhere.
passedpawn is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2009, 02:40 AM   #9
slouch
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 138
Default

Are you running your 240 to a separate breaker box to do the split?

__________________

Secondary - Imperial Stout
Secondary - Pilsner
Secondary - Bourbon Stout
Secondary - Mead
Bottling - Pilsner
Bottling - Viking Sky
Bottling - Root beer
Drinking - Pucker Butt, Tomahawk, Thor's Hammer
Cellar - 2004 Clover Mead, 2009 Blackberry Mead, Blonde Biasa, Kaptin Kölsh

slouch is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2009, 03:33 AM   #10
mr_beland
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Saint-Hyacinthe
Posts: 33
Default

I live in an apartement. I did 8 20L brews on my range, and it suffers from that much weight. It's why i want to go electric.

I will unplug the dryer each brew (245V exactly; at 6000W, there's 24,5A through the lines). There's an 30Amp ON/OFF breaker (i dont know the technical name)

Does il matter if my boiling tun have an 15m power cable?


And again, what is the best (cheaest) PID controller for this application. With the manual mode (on/off cycle)

__________________

L'autre là-bas


Last edited by mr_beland; 11-17-2009 at 03:36 AM.
mr_beland is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electric Stove Erlenmeyer Flask Starter Boiling iceman80403 Equipment/Sanitation 10 04-19-2014 02:51 PM
Electric HLT Orfy DIY Projects 24 01-08-2010 01:33 AM
Electric Help hlumbard DIY Projects 15 05-03-2009 08:48 PM
Boiling on an electric stove HughBrooks Equipment/Sanitation 8 03-10-2009 12:52 AM
Boiling vs Non-Boiling Extract Question wardos Extract Brewing 17 09-05-2006 01:01 PM