 |
|
06-17-2009, 04:53 PM
|
#1
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 576
|
Electric Boil Kettle with Hop Sack and Chiller
|
|
I am 95% sure i want to make an electric BK using a 5500W Ripple stick.
my bk is wider than it is tall, 24" diameter by 22" tall, meaning i need all the depth i can get.
However, before i go drilling a hole in my BK, I have a couple issues:
1) How will having a heating element impact my hop sack. I use a 5 gallon nylon paint strainer to contain my hops during the boil... something tells me that having nylon draped over a hot rod will create a problem.
2) I have an immersion chiller that i put in with 15 minutes to go, the way i figure it, i would have to spread two of the coils and slide the element between them..... not ideal given my aversion to burning my hands.
What do you guys think, am i misssing something here?
oh... I don't want to just dump my hops in, and i like my chiller and don't particularly want a counterflow chiller.
__________________
~"A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it's better to be thoroughly sure.”
On Deck: Spruce APA, Chambord Fortified Chocolate Porter, Imperial IPA
Primary:
Primary:
Secondary: Belgian Dark Strong Ale
Conical:
Lagering: None
Kegged/Drinking: Cascade, Cent., Amarillo Pale Ale
Kegged/Drinking: Belgian Pale Ale (HG yeast for yeast cropping see above)
Bottled: ESB
|
|
|
06-17-2009, 05:46 PM
|
#2
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lakeland TN
Posts: 3,525
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjlammer
2) I have an immersion chiller that i put in with 15 minutes to go, the way i figure it, i would have to spread two of the coils and slide the element between them..... not ideal given my aversion to burning my hands.
|
I'm trying to figure that one out, too. My chiller is only 20', I may just break down and do a longer one, with a bend to accommodate the element.
Though, I have to get around to adding the element, first.
|
|
|
06-17-2009, 06:12 PM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 5,386
|
False bottom over element? Sets a base for chiller and protects hop filter sack.
|
|
|
06-17-2009, 06:24 PM
|
#4
|
|
Nobody talk, just drink.
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,661
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by samc
False bottom over element? Sets a base for chiller and protects hop filter sack.
|
That will likely result in scorched wort since the heat dispersion rate will be reduced above the false bottom.
__________________
Doggfather Brewery
Planned: Lambic, American IPA
Fermenting: 6 gals of 1.090 stout (Belgian) & 6 gals of 1.090 stout (English)
Tapped: Berliner Weisse, Black English IPA, German Pils, & Live Oak Primus
|
|
|
06-17-2009, 06:30 PM
|
#5
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 5,386
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamarguy
That will likely result in scorched wort since the heat dispersion rate will be reduced above the false bottom.
|
How about a false bottom with very large holes, which would basically just be a platform for the chiller to sit on? That would allow wort to flow freely. And use an ULD element.
|
|
|
06-17-2009, 06:34 PM
|
#6
|
|
Nobody talk, just drink.
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,661
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjlammer
I am 95% sure i want to make an electric BK using a 5500W Ripple stick.
|
Good choice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjlammer
1) How will having a heating element impact my hop sack. I use a 5 gallon nylon paint strainer to contain my hops during the boil... something tells me that having nylon draped over a hot rod will create a problem.
|
It won't cause a problem unless the nylon somehow becomes entangled in the heating element. The heat current coming from the element will tend to push the bag away from the element.
If you're still worried about it, build a small frame from CPVC to suspend the bag above the heating element.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjlammer
2) I have an immersion chiller that i put in with 15 minutes to go, the way i figure it, i would have to spread two of the coils and slide the element between them..... not ideal given my aversion to burning my hands.
|
Build a counterflow or buy a plate heat exchanger. Sounds like you already have the copper, just wrap it in a garden hose and solder the fittings. And, despite your aversion (for whatever reason), a plate/counterflow chiller is the most practical solution to your problem.
Edit: You can buy a SS 304 25 plate heat exchanger for $67. Way more efficient than an immersion chiller.
__________________
Doggfather Brewery
Planned: Lambic, American IPA
Fermenting: 6 gals of 1.090 stout (Belgian) & 6 gals of 1.090 stout (English)
Tapped: Berliner Weisse, Black English IPA, German Pils, & Live Oak Primus
Last edited by lamarguy; 06-17-2009 at 06:38 PM.
|
|
|
06-17-2009, 06:49 PM
|
#7
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: East Dundee, Illinois
Posts: 4,961
|
I've wrestled with the same issues. I wanted to continue to use the hop sack (PVC Coupling/hanging kind) but instead I put the hops in the boil and filter on the way out. I do use a CFC which I'm OK with.
I may try an experiment with water only and the hop sack, if it doesn't get melted in a 60 minute water boil, it probably will work with beer. Just need something to approximate hops that doesn't cost as much as hops.
__________________
"People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people." - V
Primary: Nothin
Secondary: Shady Lord RIS, Water to Barleywine, Pumpkin wine, burnt mead
Kegged: Crappy infected mild
Bottles: Apfelwein, 999 Barleywine, Oatmeal Stout, Robust Porter, Robust smoked porter, Simcoe Smash
|
|
|
06-18-2009, 04:17 AM
|
#8
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 576
|
I currently use a pvc thingy (its a 4" diameter pvc toiliet flange to be exact) to suspend the bag, but i subscribe to muphys law... if something can go wrong, it will. My luck, the bag will be loaded with 20 dollars in hops for a magnificent IPA, and will get roasted by the element.
I think i already know the answer to this because it will f-up the normal convection in the pot, but could i bend the ripple stick to go around teh edge of the pot, leaving a nice fat spot in the middle of the pot to put the chiller and hop sack?
I know im just being a baby about it, but i just finished making my chiller and hop sock holder, and i am both proud of them, and i like the way my system works (albeit, not the part where it takes 2 hours to reach a pittance of a boil on the stove)
I am not opposed to trying to bend a horseshoe chiller...
__________________
~"A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it's better to be thoroughly sure.”
On Deck: Spruce APA, Chambord Fortified Chocolate Porter, Imperial IPA
Primary:
Primary:
Secondary: Belgian Dark Strong Ale
Conical:
Lagering: None
Kegged/Drinking: Cascade, Cent., Amarillo Pale Ale
Kegged/Drinking: Belgian Pale Ale (HG yeast for yeast cropping see above)
Bottled: ESB
|
|
|
06-18-2009, 04:44 AM
|
#9
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 1,175
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjlammer
I am 95% sure i want to make an electric BK using a 5500W Ripple stick.
my bk is wider than it is tall, 24" diameter by 22" tall, meaning i need all the depth i can get.
However, before i go drilling a hole in my BK, I have a couple issues:
1) How will having a heating element impact my hop sack. I use a 5 gallon nylon paint strainer to contain my hops during the boil... something tells me that having nylon draped over a hot rod will create a problem.
2) I have an immersion chiller that i put in with 15 minutes to go, the way i figure it, i would have to spread two of the coils and slide the element between them..... not ideal given my aversion to burning my hands.
What do you guys think, am i misssing something here?
oh... I don't want to just dump my hops in, and i like my chiller and don't particularly want a counterflow chiller.
|
That's a HUGE brew kettle - according to my calculations*, it has a capacity of 43 gallons! I don't know what size boils you are doing, but if you're only making 5 or 10 gallon batches, the obvious solution is to use a smaller kettle to avoid losing so much heat due to the surface area of the kettle - or at least find a way to insulate your kettle.
*Somebody check my math - volume of a cylinder 24 inches in diameter and 22 inches tall is 9953 cubic inches = 5.76 cubic feet. At 7.5 gallons per cubic foot, that's 43.2 gallons
|
|
|
06-18-2009, 12:56 PM
|
#10
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 576
|
I can't remember the exact dimensions.... maybe 22 x 18.... all I know is it is big! 16.25 gallons.
I hope to be able to do about 12 gallons finished volume when im all set and done, that way i can brew with my dad, and have him just take a bucket of pitched wort home with him.
__________________
~"A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it's better to be thoroughly sure.”
On Deck: Spruce APA, Chambord Fortified Chocolate Porter, Imperial IPA
Primary:
Primary:
Secondary: Belgian Dark Strong Ale
Conical:
Lagering: None
Kegged/Drinking: Cascade, Cent., Amarillo Pale Ale
Kegged/Drinking: Belgian Pale Ale (HG yeast for yeast cropping see above)
Bottled: ESB
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
|
|