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Old 03-26-2012, 07:57 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mredge73 View Post
1
If used for long periods of time the heat produced will eventually wield the contacts together where the spring in the relay will not be able to release it.
2
If it is cycled often the sparks produced will scar the contacts where it eventually will not make contact.

Avoid these two things and it should work fine for a long while.
If it is a UL or CSA device it is probably underrated anyway.

Other than that it looks like a solid build.
A few questions:

Have you inspected your element after the first run?
I would be curious if you caramelized any wort on it with the design that you chose.
You will have more contact time with the element.

Does the element have a SS base?
Mine is developing rust after just a few uses. I remove it after every brew now; clean and dry it. Plan on coating it with some keg lube to stop the rust. Looking for a new one if anyone has suggestions.
Thanks. I have not inspected the element. It is difficult to get this thing together with no leaks and I am not wanting to open it up at this time.

I did make a dopplebock so if there was any carmalization I would not have detected it very well. In a few days I am planning on making an Oktoberfest and a 100% Pilsen malt French Saison. I suspect that it will be easy to tell if my Pilsen malt is/gets scorched.

My impression of how the STC-1000 and the ELD element works is that the ELD does not seem to power up really fast like a standard element will. I believe this is why it is possible to dry fire an ELD and not burn the element out. I really think this is a key factor to how it all works together. I will be very surprised if I am scorching wort, the wort seems to move through the system pretty fast.
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Old 03-31-2012, 02:42 PM   #12
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Just food for thought... If this controller is designed to be cycled on and off very often, presumably more than a compressor why would the contact weld themselves open or closed? That line of thought doesn't sound right to me.

I also just made a Kolsh and an Oktoberfest. While the O-fest would be hard to tell any scorching/caramelization flavors my Kolsh was not. It was the lightest color of yellow of any beer I have ever made and there was NO scorched/burnt taste at all. FWIW the Kolsh wort smelled and tasted unworldly good...

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Old 05-04-2012, 09:56 PM   #13
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Default Update.

I have brewed 2 more batches of beer with this and it is still working with no issues and will be brewing a batch tomorrow. The Kolsh I brewed is now on tap and I do not detect any off flavors like scorched wort.

Also, I finally got my 2 needed quick disconnects so I was able to fully inspect the element today. While it does not look as it did when it was brand new, it does not have scorched wort on it, or inside the tube anywhere that I could see and I got a GOOD look at it through the openings where I put the QD's. It would have been impossible to snap a pic of the inside of it which is why there is not a pic. If I ever crack this bad boy all the way open, I will snap a pic but I have no plans to do so at this time.

I seem to be able to raise the temp of 13 gallons of water roughly by 1-1.5F a minute. I do understand that this is not as fast as a full blown RIMS setup would do the job but it is 2x faster than propane alone.

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Old 05-04-2012, 11:16 PM   #14
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Just food for thought... If this controller is designed to be cycled on and off very often, presumably more than a compressor why would the contact weld themselves open or closed? That line of thought doesn't sound right to me.
Because it is designed to cycle on and off with a <10A load.
It is not designed to operate above its rated load. Heat is generated at the contractors when they slam shut; the surface area of the contractor must be large enough to dissipate this heat. I had this happen on a motor control centers with very expensive switch gear as well as small cube relays. Most recently I found a 1.5A relay being used on a 2A solenoid; I had to tap it with a screwdriver a few times to get it to let go. Relay was ruined; not sure how long it had been sticky like this but it has been in operation for for a few years. Contacts were solid black and extremely thin.
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:52 AM   #15
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1 - Extra Low Density 120V / 1500 watt water heater element (I think it is 4" long I did NOT measure it and to do so would require me taking apart the RIMS tube which is a PITA to do so prob not gonna happen.)
Where did you purchase your ELD 120v/15000w element? Link?

Thanks!
Robert
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:25 AM   #16
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120-1500-ELD : http://www.plumbingsupply.com/elements.html

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Old 01-07-2013, 05:32 AM   #17
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I made a similar RIMS but used longer pipe and a 1650 LWD 120V element. I opened up my STC-1000 and the relays are labeled 120V 15A.

I am converting mine to use an SSR since all my controls are going that route. I also included a 15A breaker in my STC-1000 controller build...and a manual on/off on the heat side so I can power off the element in case of pump failure or fluid loss in the tube.

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Old 01-08-2013, 12:23 AM   #18
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Have you hooked the element it up to a power meter or used a multimeter to see what the actual draw (amps) is? Just from spot checking a few things that should run at a rated wattage (space heater..etc), they are all lower than what is rated.

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Old 01-08-2013, 12:43 AM   #19
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Have you hooked the element it up to a power meter or used a multimeter to see what the actual draw (amps) is? Just from spot checking a few things that should run at a rated wattage (space heater..etc), they are all lower than what is rated.
I have not but this was my theory...I guessed that the element drew under 15A and the STC-1000 could handle 15A plus a little. The truth is it IS a heating/cooling controller and it was built for an extremely similar purpose. I am plenty pleased with how mine works, it is more of a "smart heatstick" than a true RIMS system but it does the job plenty good on the beer I drink.
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