I use the TA4 version of this PID controller for my HLT and mash kettles (although the mash doesn't use the output).
The PT100 hooks up the two same color wires to the B pins #12 and #13 and the odd colored wire to the A pins #10 and #11. I use a jumper between 10 and 11 but I'm not sure if it is necessary as when I hooked up at TD4, it worked without the jumper. Before I knew which wire was A and which was B, I hooked them up wrong, which just gave no output. PT100s are just simple resistors so there's no damage from hooking them up wrong as long as long as you don't hook them up to high voltage AC.
The power input I used one leg of neutral and hot to pins #1 and #2 for 110V operation.
I don't know about the 2 SSRs from one output but electrical code says you only have to switch one leg for use in temperature control applications. For safety though, I use a relay to be able to have a switch that turns off both legs (after the SSR). From what I hear, a "contactor" is a smaller, cheaper way to do that because my relays dominate the interior of my panel and were $35 each.