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Old 10-06-2011, 06:37 PM   #41
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I'm not great with electricity but I have worked on car stereos. Whenever I did wiring I would solder and then put shrink wrap over that. Could I do that instead of wire nuts?

Also, is there a difference between the round cord you bought and the flat cord you can buy? As long as it is a good length, 3 prong and at least 13A it should all be the same, no?

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Old 10-06-2011, 08:42 PM   #42
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whats the length of the temp probe wiring? really interested in this build

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Old 10-07-2011, 12:51 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by h22lude View Post
I'm not great with electricity but I have worked on car stereos. Whenever I did wiring I would solder and then put shrink wrap over that. Could I do that instead of wire nuts?

Also, is there a difference between the round cord you bought and the flat cord you can buy? As long as it is a good length, 3 prong and at least 13A it should all be the same, no?
There's nothing wrong with heat shrink as long as it completely covers the wire. I've use the flat wires too, but I find them on the bulky side when using wire nuts. That's why I went with the extension cord.

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whats the length of the temp probe wiring? really interested in this build
I'm estimating it's about 6 feet. Some people (in another thread) have made it longer, and some have used a jack to make the sensor removable. Works fine too, but may need to be recalibrated.
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:22 PM   #44
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No need for a switch box or anything? You can just out the outlet right into the plastic project box?

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Old 10-25-2011, 08:48 PM   #45
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Ordered up my controller couple days ago and it's on its way. I'm excited.

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Old 10-31-2011, 04:30 PM   #46
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I noticed in this picture


and this picture


that the wires going into post 1 and 2 on the controller are different. Does it matter?

Also I have noticed in many of the other wiring diagrams there are three wires coming from the left side rather than two from these pictures.

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Old 10-31-2011, 05:49 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Tinga View Post
I noticed in this picture


and this picture


that the wires going into post 1 and 2 on the controller are different. Does it matter?

Also I have noticed in many of the other wiring diagrams there are three wires coming from the left side rather than two from these pictures.
Reversing 1 and 2 doesn't matter - it's AC, not DC.

The "left" side has a copper "jumper/leg" for the 2 left legs to be energized at all times. The "right" side has this jumper/leg intentionally broken for the up and down legs to be energized interdependently.

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Old 10-31-2011, 06:23 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Misplaced_Canuck View Post
Reversing 1 and 2 doesn't matter - it's AC, not DC.

The "left" side has a copper "jumper/leg" for the 2 left legs to be energized at all times. The "right" side has this jumper/leg intentionally broken for the up and down legs to be energized interdependently.

M_C
Thank you! Just got the controller in the mail this morning. Going home after work to wire it up and test it out.
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:24 PM   #49
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Hey it works!!!

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Old 11-21-2011, 07:29 PM   #50
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Hmmm... did I get to gleeful at the price and think I had found a nice Fahrenheit reading controller? I've seen comments that they are single stage. Guess I didn't read well enough and see that some are single stage. I still am hopeful this is dual stage, and was assuming Work and Set were the Heat and Cool sides.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320778369051?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1497.l2649

Guess I can still use a single stage here and there and will have to make another dual stage after this, and at least I did catch the 220v versions and avoided that problem.

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