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**extra_medium** · 08-11-2011, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Misplaced_Canuck

Good point on the UV from incandescent. I suppose a judiciously placed towel around the carboy would protect it from UV.

As far as the chest freezer bypass, personally I wouldn't do it. The freezer is already designed to go below the temperature of either of serving or fermentation. Just plug it into the temp controller, put the probe inside, and you're done. No messing with the freezer.

M_C

I would,but the orginal themostat does not work. This is going to be my replacement themostat for a Ranger brand 6 cf chest freezer.

Firebat138 · 08-11-2011, 02:48 PM

Cool... what is the OUTLET for? Does this whole thing go in the wall next to BOTH of ur units and then you plug the freezers into it?

strefethen · 08-11-2011, 03:45 PM

If you used a 1k Watt or 1500 Watt element you could control the heat exchanger in a HERMS rig with this. What I'm wondering is if the temp probe that comes with this would take the 168 degree hot water during mashout? Obviously the probe is waterproof but I'm just wondering about direct contact with water that hot.

Misplaced_Canuck · 08-11-2011, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Firebat138

Cool... what is the OUTLET for? Does this whole thing go in the wall next to BOTH of ur units and then you plug the freezers into it?

Top of the outlet is for "heat" (aka you plug a source of heat to keep fermentation warm) and the other (bottom) is for cooling (you plug the fridge/freezer into it to cool down the fermentation).

M_C

shortyjacobs · 08-11-2011, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by extra_medium

I would,but the orginal themostat does not work. This is going to be my replacement themostat for a Ranger brand 6 cf chest freezer.

You need to find the wiring diagram, or try to figure it out yourself. You need to find the line and load wires going into/coming out of the original thermostat, and run those instead to the line/load, (the two contacts for cooling) on the ebay t-stat.

Wires should be pretty thick, coming out of the original T-stat. one should always be powered when the freezer is plugged in. The other should only go "live" when the compressor kicks on, (when the temp rises too much in the freezer). The line wire should be traceable back to where power comes into the freezer. The load wire should be traceable up to the compressor. Two other wires coming out of the compressor should be a ground and neutral, both traceable back to the power cord coming into the freezer again.

ndsgr · 08-11-2011, 06:11 PM

I was just at lowes last week looking for a box and decided on a 3 gang for for an always on outlet as well (for me a small fan, but a friend suggested a small radio for the yeast to jam too... sure).

I'm glad someone else test fitted this to make it work first while I still have the receipts! Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by shortyjacobs

I've heard of folks using heating pads too, (like the kind you use for a sore neck...). Also, since light can be a bitch to beer, (although incandescents put out rather little UV, and CFLs are useless for heating), many folks prefer ceramic aquarium heater bulbs, (screw into any normal light bulb outlet), that only put out heat.

Not my idea, but what I did.

I substituted a 40W oven lightbulb and it worked for garage temps in the 20s, ferm temps in the 60s. Also, I wired the outlet to the lid so no light escapes the can.

**forcabrew** · 08-13-2011, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Misplaced_Canuck

And the schematics...

The blue wires are the sensor wires.

M_C

probably a stupid question but no temp probe? also can you post the link to the seller you purchased your units from.

cheers

Misplaced_Canuck · 08-13-2011, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forcabrew

probably a stupid question but no temp probe? also can you post the link to the seller you purchased your units from.

cheers

Dang...You even reposted it in the quote: 'The blue wires are the sensor'

Sensor = temperature probe.

I don't have the seller's name unfortunately.

M_C

**mrbradwilliams** · 08-13-2011, 02:46 PM

Is it two stage; can you set both the heat and the cool parameters and have them both active all the time? I noticed the directions on eBay mentioned that the heat and cool indicator lights can't be on at the same time, but I don't know if that matters with your setup.

Thanks!

ndsgr · 08-13-2011, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrbradwilliams

Is it two stage; can you set both the heat and the cool parameters and have them both active all the time? I noticed the directions on eBay mentioned that the heat and cool indicator lights can't be on at the same time, but I don't know if that matters with your setup.

Thanks!

It is two stage. You set a temperature and a swing (as low as 2*F) and it will take care of cooling and heating for you. The cooling and heating lights only are one when it's performing that function, hence the lights won't be on at the same time. So, if the temp gets too hot, the "cool" light turns on; gets too cold, the "heat" light will turn on. If it's the right temp (within the swing) neither will be on.

Also, you can set a "compressor delay" (0-10min IIRC) so your compressor doesn't pop on and off rapidly if the temps are unstable. You can also calibrate it.

If you go to ebay and type in "mini digital temperature controller" it will bring this up, for the folks who want links.

My only gripe is that it's in Celsius, so I have to have a little chart next to it. Definitely not a deal breaker for the price.