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Old 02-01-2012, 03:49 PM   #91
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That's the STC-1000. That's the right one.

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Any idea why it wont stay even remotely close to the set temp? Ive used it on 2 different refrigerators, I cant seem to get it to work properly. I have gotten some advice but none of it has really led me in the right direction.


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Old 02-01-2012, 04:04 PM   #92
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Any idea why it wont stay even remotely close to the set temp? Ive used it on 2 different refrigerators, I cant seem to get it to work properly. I have gotten some advice but none of it has really led me in the right direction.
Based on your posts in other threads I'd say you have the 220v controller. You can check to see what voltage it was built for by taking the case off and looking at the transformer. What voltage is the unit plugged into?


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Old 02-01-2012, 04:08 PM   #93
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do you have the probe submersed in for example a cup of water inside the fridge?

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Old 02-01-2012, 04:31 PM   #94
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I have seen some say 220 and they are the correct one. I believe mine does but it is a STC1000 so it should be the correct one.
If that wiring diagram states 220V input, then it is PROBABLY a 220V controller.
There is a guy on here that figured out how to change the transformers out on these things... may look it up.
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Old 02-01-2012, 05:02 PM   #95
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Hmmm, a number of auctions on ebay read:

Power Supply: 220 ~ 240V AC ± 10% or 100 ~ 120 V AC, 50 / 60 Hz

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Old 02-01-2012, 05:16 PM   #96
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Hmmm, a number of auctions on ebay read:

Power Supply: 220 ~ 240V AC ± 10% or 100 ~ 120 V AC, 50 / 60 Hz
It's two different models. Most of the sellers send the voltage of the country it's being shipped to, but some require that you request which one you want, and some screw up and send the wrong one occasionally.
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Old 02-01-2012, 05:53 PM   #97
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Based on your posts in other threads I'd say you have the 220v controller.
If a 220VAC model were used on a 110VAC circuit, you would think that the display itself would either not light up at all, be very dim or have random displays... but that was not mentioned his other thread.

BraxtonBrewery, did you test the controller with, say, a lamp instead of a fridge (on the cooling output)? I would set F1 cooling temp to roughly a couple of degrees above room temperature then heat the probe with a hairdryer to see if the lamp comes on (and whether the lamp is at the usual brightness).

Once the lamp comes on, use an ice cube or cold water to quickly cool the prob to verify that the lamp turns off F2 degrees below F1. Then quickly reheat the probe again to verify that the fridge won't be turned before the F3 (compressor delay value of the default 3 minutes).

(Don't forget to reset F1 to desired fridge temp and turn fridge's internal setting to high.) If the lamp tests work but the fridges fail, I would verify that the compressor isn't overheating (from begin turned on too frequently).
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Old 02-01-2012, 06:21 PM   #98
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If a 220VAC model were used on a 110VAC circuit, you would think that the display itself would either not light up at all, be very dim or have random displays... but that was not mentioned his other thread.
Actually the 220V model's display will work, but the relays won't activate.

To the guy with the problem, test the unit with a lamp, a cell phone charger with an LED, etc.

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Old 02-01-2012, 06:48 PM   #99
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I started to wire mine up last night but ran into a snag. The wire clamps on the heating and cooling circuits are fixed closed. It almost seems like they weren't made correctly or got solder in them during assembly. I have emailed the seller, and got a response requesting photos. I am waiting to hear back from them before I tear into it and desolder those terminals.

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Old 02-01-2012, 08:02 PM   #100
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I started to wire mine up last night but ran into a snag. The wire clamps on the heating and cooling circuits are fixed closed. It almost seems like they weren't made correctly or got solder in them during assembly. I have emailed the seller, and got a response requesting photos. I am waiting to hear back from them before I tear into it and desolder those terminals.
That's strange. Mine were tight and required some torque but I got them loose with a small-medium flat screwdriver.

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