janitorjerm

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So basically seperate those two terminals from connecting to each other?

seanoj

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Separate the "hot" side of the outlet. The black (hot) side is controlled individually by the controller. The white side (neutral) should be on all the time (hence joined). Also, you need to get the white into the controller, so it needs to be joined too.

Basically, the circuit is black to white. White (neutral) is always waiting for black (hot) to connect. Black is controlled by the STC-1000. You want to have the controller to turn only one outlet on to cool so you keep the "cold" black side separated from the "heat" black.

The controller decides the temp is too hot, one outlet gets black on (the other remains off). The controller decides too cold, the other outlet get black on (the other remains off). The controller decides the temp is Goldilocks, and both blacks are off.

Does this make sense?

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janitorjerm

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Perfect sense. Thank you.

cracked1

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If I use this as a keezer temp control (no heat needed) would the single stage work fine? Or is there something else about the two stage that makes it better?

seanoj

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The single stage will work fine for a keezer in your home. If you were to place the keezer where it might get too cold (freezing) then you might want the heat feature.

The single stage I got has a defrost cycle that might be useful for a freezer application.

I was concerned that the two stage might not be as accurate or precise as the single stage, but the specs seem very similar.

Oddly, I was able to get the two stage cheaper than the single stage.

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Ki-ri-n

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Just got my controller today Did a quick test and it works. No errors and both the heating & cooling sides switch "on" as they should. Pretty accurate compared to my other temp probe.

I have my fermentation cabinet built (cooling side only right now). Just need to wire this bad boy in and throw a batch in it

One thing that I think that is wrong, most of the diagrams in this post shows the hot or black going through the controller. I think it should be the white or neutral that is being switched.

seanoj

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In every PID controller wiring diagram I have seen, the black is what gets switched. I think, at least with this unit, polarity does not matter.

http://www.e3b6a5y.com/365/WiringDiagrams/new2006power.pdf

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/help-wiring-love-controller-154450/

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/temperature-controller-box-portable-solution-128443/

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ClaudiusB

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Why would you think the white wire is the one?
If you look at your light switches at your house, its always the black.

seanoj the Love controller uses a relay to control the outside world and in the 120 V applications you referenced to the hot is the only one which you should switch.

Your model is a SSR out type controller which supplies the DC to the SSR and the switching is done by the solid state relay not the controller. In a 120V application you would switch again the hot only.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

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wood7588

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The hot is usually always switched because it shortens the physical length of the energized wires in the device. If you switch the neutral leg, all the wires leading up to it are hot all the time and able to cross and short out. I dont know if running the neutral to the switched ports in this controller will cause a problem internally with the device but i used the hot leads for the safety reasons.

Ki-ri-n

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Yeah, I had it backwards. Still 50/50