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Old 04-06-2013, 04:17 PM   #3511
marshallwms
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I would remove the probe wires, retwist them, and reinstall. Make very sure there are no stray strands that could cause a problem and are securely tightened. The other wiring needs to be modified as outlined above - move the green ground wire to the green screw on the outlet. That wiring will not cause an EE error. Only the probe should do that. If you are concerned, remove the wires from 5, 6, 7, and 8 that go to the outlet.

It is possible you have a defective (shorted) probe. If so it would be the first I have heard of. I am building my 6th controller and have never had a problem.

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Old 04-06-2013, 07:51 PM   #3512
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Thanks guys, I got it working properly now. Ran it through several cycles using hot and cold water connected to lamps. My only problem is now, the heating pad that I planed doesn't come back on when power is restored...you have to press a button. So I need a new heating source...or should cut the cord and bypass the switch? Is that safe?

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Old 04-07-2013, 05:43 PM   #3513
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Cutting the cord can work fine, but you do need to be careful when you put it back together. I stagger my cuts so that one side is longer than the other, then strip and wrap the wires around each other, then tape each side carefully with electrical tape. Then I wrap both together with more tape. If you are going to be moving it around some, you might want to solder them after you wrap the wires together so it has more strength.

Of course, if you can return it, there are other items you can use - anything that gets warm will work. I use an old 40W soldering iron in an old holder. Others use lightbulbs in ceramic holders. A 60W bulb should do fine. You can wrap aluminum foil around the bulb to keep the light away from the beer. You should use a fan to circulate the air around the fermentation chamber to keep temps fairly even inside of it. Make sure you tape the probe to the fermentation vessel, and insulate it from the air. It is the wort you want to keep at the temp you have set, not the air around it.

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Old 04-07-2013, 09:59 PM   #3514
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I made the heating pad work by simply putting a zip-tie around the on-button keeping it depressed.

I have the probe in a 1 gallon jug of water/bleach mixture.

I do not have a fan of any kind, but the heating pad is on the bottom(heat rises) I was hoping convection would circulate the air a little. Anyone else not use any kind of fan? Problems?

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Old 04-08-2013, 03:48 PM   #3515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaProud View Post
I made the heating pad work by simply putting a zip-tie around the on-button keeping it depressed.
That sounds like it should work just fine.

Quote:
I have the probe in a 1 gallon jug of water/bleach mixture.
The is a problem with that. The fermentation process is exothermic - it generates heat. So the wort heats itself as it ferments, slowly heating the air, and eventually you gallon jug. You want to keep the wort at a stable temperature. Taping the probe to the center of the fermentation vessel, and insulating that from the surrounding air does a good job of that. There are a couple of very long discussions of this earlier in this monster of a thread.

Quote:
I do not have a fan of any kind, but the heating pad is on the bottom(heat rises) I was hoping convection would circulate the air a little. Anyone else not use any kind of fan? Problems?
Most of us use a computer cooling fan (12 V DC generally) powered by an old phone charger wall wart. I have an always-on outlet on my controller. Cheap, simple, very low power, and effective.
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:41 PM   #3516
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How long did this contrller last. Without a relay or contactor it seems to me that a refigerator would draw to much current for the contacts on the controller. I have to redlion that im trying to dwngrade. If these hold up. Prolly would b agood candidate

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Old 05-04-2013, 03:01 PM   #3517
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The relays are rated for 15 amps at 110V. I have been using one for a month now with no problem on my Kenmore fridge that I use as a fermenting chamber.

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Old 05-05-2013, 09:29 PM   #3518
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I have been using mine for just over a year with no problem.

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Old 05-06-2013, 06:07 AM   #3519
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For those of you adding lamps or LEDs to signify cooling/heating, where in the circuit are you adding them? Parallel or in series? Before or after the receptacle? Thanks! Almost done with my STC-1000 build. Will share pics upon completion.

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Old 05-06-2013, 11:50 AM   #3520
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Subscribed. Just ordered one of these controllers last week

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