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Old 03-01-2010, 10:18 PM   #21
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my wiring diagram (sloppy also). i only used one wire nut to join the hot wires as you can see in one of the pics above. also, very important to break off the jumper tab on the hot side so you can control each outlet independently.
I read the schematic that came with the controller differently. I have the input go directly to ports 1/2 and then feed hot from 5/6 and cold from 7/8. You have input power going straight to heat and then to 2 and then you don't have any neutral on the cool side. Did I read something wrong?

Edit: Ah, you didn't remove the tab on the neutral side, right?
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:26 PM   #22
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the way i understand it (and my electrical knowledge is fairly limited, so i may be misinterpreting it) is that the hot wire is what is being switched. so I have my input hot wire connected to channels 1, 5, & 7 (all pigtailed from the channels wire nutted together with the hot from the power cable, so 4 wires total). this hot is interrupted by a switch in both the heat/cool stages, so channels 6 and 8 each feed a separate hot wire to the receptacle to control the fridge/heater. the neutral from the power cord is in connected to the receptacle and no, i did not break the tab on the neutral side which takes care of neutral on both outlets. i have a jumper neutral that feeds the controller. since only the hot is switched, the neutral stays live to control whatever it needs to.

hopefully that makes sense. and hopefully that isn't the wrong way to do it, but it seems to work fine as is. let me know if that answers your question.

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Old 03-02-2010, 04:47 PM   #23
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Yep you have it right. There are two pieces of paper in the box. One is similar to yours and one shows a dumbed down circuit diagram. I saw the diagram and thought you provided power to the controller and it in turn provided power to the heater/cooler. Sorry for the distraction.

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Old 03-02-2010, 05:02 PM   #24
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Do you have a link to the ebay seller....I must have missed the tread about this.

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Old 03-02-2010, 05:11 PM   #25
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Do you have a link to the ebay seller....I must have missed the tread about this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-Digital-Tem...t_4272wt_11 65
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:23 PM   #26
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Yep you have it right. There are two pieces of paper in the box. One is similar to yours and one shows a dumbed down circuit diagram. I saw the diagram and thought you provided power to the controller and it in turn provided power to the heater/cooler. Sorry for the distraction.
yeah, i think that is a difference between these and love controllers in that there is a separate hot for each terminal.
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:35 PM   #27
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So... I have an older fridge that only wants to sit at 32 degrees which is maddening. Can I just plug this into the fridge (appropriately connected) and then have the probe cut power on and off to run the fridge at a higher temp? I wouldn't have to rewire the internal fridge at all? That sounds great if true. N_G

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Old 03-02-2010, 05:40 PM   #28
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yes, you can do exactly as you asked with a temp controller like this. no need to modify the fridge at all.

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Old 03-02-2010, 05:52 PM   #29
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Awesome. I just bought one off ebay. Should pay for itself in saved electricity within 2 months. Thanks!

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Old 03-02-2010, 06:41 PM   #30
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this controller will just cut off power to the fridge/compressor when the set temp is reached. once the probe determines the temp has gone above the set point, it will switch power back on to the fridge/compressor to get it back to the set point.

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