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**CyberMonk** · 06-27-2012, 03:19 AM

After procrastinating for a few weeks after getting my STC-1000 in the mail, I finally wired up my control box last night (which I'd previously built but not wired). I had some special requirements, as I wanted a box that would not only control my kegerator, but also offer two switched plugs (not full outlets, just individual receptacles), one for the tower fan in my fridge and the other for our balcony lights, as that's where the whole setup is.

The end setup consists of a RadioShack project box (the biggest one they had, not sure of the precise dimensions), two electrical outlets (for a total of four receptacles), and two standard light switches, along with the STC-1000. The two switches independently control both receptacles on the left side of the box, one for the fan and one for the lights, and the right side receptacles are controlled by the STC-1000 (one hot, one cold, though I'm only using the latter for now). I had inspiration from someone else earlier in this thread who also used a RadioShack project box and mounted their outlets on the side, which let me know that there'd be enough vertical clearance for the outlets and the faceplate.

Here are a few shots of the end product, though I'll note that those two white plugs coming off the side are going to be replaced with some rotating low-profile extension cords that will look a lot nicer (and match the box to boot). Very happy with the way this came out! You can also see the tap sleeve cover that my fiancé made for the tower (it's outside so I wanted to protect it while not in use).

**Huaco** · 06-28-2012, 06:06 PM

Are you GFCI protected there? You sure are close to liquid...

**CyberMonk** · 06-28-2012, 08:36 PM

I am, and the box will also be moving in a month or two once the last part of the kegerator balcony project is completed. We'll be building a table surface that will sit on top of the kegerator, and expand across to the opposite corner of the nook it's sitting in. At that point, the control box will sit a few feet away from the taps.

**E-Mursed** · 07-01-2012, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by android

i was excited about the prospect of this temp controller, so i got one from ebay and put the whole thing in a project box from radio shack. one plug is switched for heating and the other for cooling. i have yet to build up my fermentation chamber that i'll use this on, but preliminary tests confirmed that the unit worked great. there is a 0.3 deg C differential on this thing, so it is pretty accurate and easy to set. i used a 14 gauge extension cord for all the wires. it does read in celcius, but that's OK by me.

all of the parts:

did some sloppy cut outs and wired it up:

power cord and sensor gives plenty of slack:

close up of the temp controller:

powered up:

my wiring diagram (sloppy also). i only used one wire nut to join the hot wires as you can see in one of the pics above. also, very important to break off the jumper tab on the hot side so you can control each outlet independently.

I want to use both receptacles of the electrical socket when the cool side of the controller is engaged - this is so I can run the keezer and a 110v fan internally at the same time.

Do I leave the tab between the two contacts intact for this to work?

TBaGZ · 07-01-2012, 02:11 PM

**tre9er** · 07-03-2012, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E-Mursed

I want to use both receptacles of the electrical socket when the cool side of the controller is engaged - this is so I can run the keezer and a 110v fan internally at the same time.

Do I leave the tab between the two contacts intact for this to work?

Yes and you wouldn't wire the hot (from terminal #6) for heat to the outlet as the diagram has. You'd wire that to whatever your heat source outlet is (another outlet)