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Old 06-10-2010, 03:48 PM   #201
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Well I finally got around to building my temp controller last night. I brewed an IPA and was eager to put it into use.

I checked my temp this morning and it had reverted back to 10˚C. I missed the part where you had to push the power button to save changes. The directions that came with mine didn't say that you had to.

Oh well, my temp is now coming back up......SLOWLY. I'll give the carboy a good swirl to wake my yeast up when I hit 20˚C.


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Old 06-10-2010, 10:44 PM   #202
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I got mine up and running and it worked like a charm. Until the day I actually needed it. I brewed yesterday and but the carboy in it and when I got home from work the controller was off. I reset the GFCI plug and it came up but as soon as the fridge tried to turn on it would fault out again. Needless to say my fridge is shot.

I wonder if this has to do with it cycling on and off? I set the compressor delay to 10 minutes and taped the sensor to the outside of the carboy with bubble wrap on the outside. Was there something wrong with that method?
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Old 06-10-2010, 11:29 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrmStlkr View Post
I got mine up and running and it worked like a charm. Until the day I actually needed it. I brewed yesterday and but the carboy in it and when I got home from work the controller was off. I reset the GFCI plug and it came up but as soon as the fridge tried to turn on it would fault out again. Needless to say my fridge is shot.
Have you tried plugging the fridge directly into the wall to verify if it's the fridge or your controller that is causing the problem?
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Old 06-10-2010, 11:44 PM   #204
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Have you tried plugging the fridge directly into the wall to verify if it's the fridge or your controller that is causing the problem?
Yes, I plugged it into a outlet without a GFCI and the compressor never turned on but the light would work on the inside. When I plugged the fridge directly into the GFCI outlet it tripped instantly again.
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Old 06-11-2010, 04:50 PM   #205
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How are you guys removing the tab to separate the two outlets? I keep breaking the outlet itself. I bought the cheapest ones that I saw, which may be the problem.

At least I have the cooling side setup. That's all I need for now as my basement stays at 70˚F this time of year.
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Old 06-11-2010, 06:45 PM   #206
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How are you guys removing the tab to separate the two outlets? I keep breaking the outlet itself. I bought the cheapest ones that I saw, which may be the problem.

At least I have the cooling side setup. That's all I need for now as my basement stays at 70˚F this time of year.
The best way is to bend the tab up with a screwdriver then repeatedly bend down/up with needle nose pliers until metal fatigue makes it break off. You should not have to apply much force. My dad is a retired electrician, as a kid I watched him do this countless times when wireing a living room where you wanted the bottom socket to be switched (for lamps) and the top to be constantly on for other stuff.
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Old 06-11-2010, 06:46 PM   #207
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You can use a pair of needle nose pliers, I did this for one of mine the other I used two small extension cord ends for.
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Old 06-12-2010, 05:20 AM   #208
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Agreed. Just bend it back and forth until it breaks. Took me like 30 something times or something. Good news on my situation though. I started troubleshooting my broken fridge and found that the compressor and start relay are both fine. Pluged it in and checked voltage at the relay, no voltage so I started working my way upstream and after messing with the fan and thermostat switch it started working.

It must be a loose connection at the fan or thermostat switch (fridge). If it goes down again I will check these places first and if I determine it is a problem with the fridge thermostat, I will just jumper the hot line.
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Old 06-12-2010, 05:59 AM   #209
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If ya had to replace the probe, does anyone have an idea of what kind of thermocouple it uses? I'm considering using it for BBQ as well...would like to replace with a high temp style probe.
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:01 PM   #210
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Anyone mount this to their keezer with the display exposed in the collar?

If you put in the back corner one side of the 90 could be the display and the other side could be the outlets.

For the display in the front of the keezer, you could do the same as above and just run a long extension to the back out the keezer and into the wall.

Can the project box be made out of wood?


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