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Old 05-25-2010, 07:23 PM   #191
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1.) I can't for the life of me find any terminal blocks to jumper the 120v over to the three sources needed for this build. Do I have to use a terminal block or would a wire nut work to jumper the 120v to three sources?
Where do you live? Lowe's, Home Depot, and Radio Shack all carry those items. You can also get them on e-bay.

Wire nuts would also work, but if you find a place that sells wire-nuts, the terminal strips are probably only a few feet away in the aisle.
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:06 PM   #192
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I live by all of those places but the lowes sales associate looked at me like I was crazy and I didn't really see any by the wire nuts but didn't look really close. Radio shack had some but he told me that he wouldn't use it for 120v application as it was meant for low voltage use. As you can tell, this is my first attempt at anything like this. I will have to look closer or just use wire nuts since I already have them. I was just trying to make it look cleaner.

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Old 05-25-2010, 08:29 PM   #193
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At lowe's they are in the same aisle where all of the wire nuts and electrical tools are. In the two Lowe's and one Home Depot that I frequent, they were hanging high on the wall and look like this:

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Old 05-27-2010, 02:48 PM   #194
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Yup.

I got my two controllers this week, very quick shipment!
I don't understand how this relay is working. I think it is activated by power to either of the two relay connections #1 or #3. This energizes the relay and powers the fan. I take it that this relay will be energized by either input without back feeding to the other, right? What is the part number or radio shack number of this relay so I can find a pinout and specs? Is it SS or mechanical? I can't find one 10 amp mechanical relay there. Nothing bigger, SS or mechanical.
BTW, plain old wirenuts should work fine.
If you want to be extra safe, I would also suggest putting a 15 amp inline fuse if you use #14 gauge wire. You could theoretically overheat the wire if supply is from a 20 amp breaker.
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Old 06-07-2010, 02:27 PM   #195
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I finally got around to building this controller out using the plans Android provided and the help of an electrician friend. It's all wired up and working great as I tested it out with some lamps. Big thanks out to Android for starting the thread and puttting together the wiring diagram and to Walker for stepping up and answering my questions.

Next step is to install the pump/plumbing and an aquarium heater to complete my liquid fermentation bath. With ambient temperatures regularly up in the 80s this will be key in turning out consistent beers.

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Old 06-07-2010, 02:35 PM   #196
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is it just me, or are the instructions that come with these controllers vague and incorrect? i tried following the instructions to set the temp and it didn't seem to respond as it was supposed to. only when i started randomly punching the buttons did i finally get it set. i hope i can remember what i did next time!
has anyone written a better set of instructions?

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Old 06-07-2010, 02:53 PM   #197
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is it just me, or are the instructions that come with these controllers vague and incorrect? i tried following the instructions to set the temp and it didn't seem to respond as it was supposed to. only when i started randomly punching the buttons did i finally get it set. i hope i can remember what i did next time!
has anyone written a better set of instructions?
Seemed to work OK for me.
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Old 06-07-2010, 03:12 PM   #198
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yeah, they worked fine for me too... is there one setpoint you're having difficulties with?

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Old 06-09-2010, 06:44 PM   #199
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Sharpstick, If you haven't used or built one of these things before the instructions suck - mostly because they never define terms. For others who have used similar devices it probably seems very familiar, but as someone who has never used one before I also found it confusing. They're weirdly written, but they're not incorrect.

Once you figure it out it's exceedingly simple to use.

Here's how I make sense of it:

There are four things you can change:

F1 Temperature Set Value - This is your target, the temperature you'd like the controller to retain, it can range from -50C to 99C, it defaults at 10C
F2 Difference set value - This is how much wiggle room you'll allow before you want the controller to start heating or cooling your environment, it can range from .3C to 10C, it defaults at .5C
F3 Compressor delay - This is how much time you'll force the controller to delay in between cooling cycles to protect against it wearing out your refrigerator or freezer's compressor. If you turn a refrigerator off and on every 15 seconds you run the risk of killing it. This setting protects against that. The setting can range from 1-10 minutes, it defaults at 3 minutes
F4 Temperature Calibration Value - If you think the controller is wrong about the current temperature (presumably because you have another thermometer that you trust that's giving you a different reading) you can make corrections to the controller's measurements to calibrate it. Corrections can range from -10C to plus 10C, defaults at 0C

The default display is the current temperature that the probe is reading.
If the heat light is on it's heating the environment
If the cooling light is on it's cooling the environment
If the cooling light is blinking it's waiting out the compressor delay before cooling

You can press the "S" button to cycle through and select the setting you want to change. When you get to the setting you'd like to manipulate you can hold down the "S" button and the up or down key simultaneously to change that setting. When you reach your desired number release the two buttons and press the power button to save your change. If you don't press the power button within ten seconds your change will be lost and you'll have to start over. So make sure you save each setting after you set it, you can't set all four and save once.

Capice?

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Old 06-09-2010, 07:50 PM   #200
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The details of the relay, as well as all the parts I used (and where I got 'em) are in my build thread here.

Quote:
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I got my two controllers this week, very quick shipment!
I don't understand how this relay is working. I think it is activated by power to either of the two relay connections #1 or #3. This energizes the relay and powers the fan. I take it that this relay will be energized by either input without back feeding to the other, right? What is the part number or radio shack number of this relay so I can find a pinout and specs?
This is the relay in question from Radioshack.

Basically, it's a DPDT switch that's activated by a current instead of a toggle.

Pins 7 and 8 are a magnetic coil. When power's supplied to the coil, it flips the switch. It's normally on position is pin 1. So power comes in from either heating or cooling, and flows to pin 2, which is the switched output - the fan. Which means (in my diagram) whenever power is flowing to the cooling side, it's also flowing to the fan. When the control box switches to heating mode, it provides power to the coil and also pin 3. The coil will cause the internal switch to flip from pin 1 to pin 3, thereby still providing power to the fan.
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