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Old 09-18-2011, 06:36 PM   #1831
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so im just finishing up one of these builds for my kegerator and just had a few questions i hope you guys could help me out with.

i have the temp set at 5* C aka 40* F. Thats a good temp for a kegerator right?

i left the difference value and temp calibration at the defaualt settings. is that ok?

i set the compressor delay time at 5 mins. is that ok?

and the most important question. how did you guys make those awesome temperature chart stickers for the top of the unit?

thanks guys in advance

cheers

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Old 09-18-2011, 09:09 PM   #1832
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You can set the temp for whatever temp you like your beer at. Consulting a carb/temp chart will tell you what pressure to set. Colder can sometimes help compensate for foaming issues.

Diff needs to be set to something reasonable. Too small will result unnecessary cycling, and an early death of your compressor. The smaller the thermal mass your probe is on/in, the higher the diff should be.

For serving beer, a good approach is to tape then insulate (or submerge) the probe to a container full of water that is the approximate size of the smallest serving vessel under pressure regulator control. If the vessel is at least 12oz., you can set the diff to the minimum (.3C?) if you want, but .5C is more than sufficient. The smaller the diff (and thermal mass the probe is on) the more the fridge will cycle, which is bad for your compressor.

Putting the bare probe in air is bad idea with the standard probe. It is very fast responding and will kill your compressor.

Be aware that if you set the temp close to 0C, and/or place the probe in/on a large thermal mass (larger than the smallest bottle), any bottles in the kegerator may freeze and shatter.

Cal is used to correct for probe offsets. The offset can be determined by putting your probe in ice water.

Set the compressor delay to its maximum (10 or 12 minutes, I forget). The long delay should never come into play for normal temp control. If you are cycling < 10 min, you have something set up wrong. This setting will help prevent short cycling due to door openings, screwing around with the probe, etc. Short cycling can kill a compressor in less than an hour given the right conditions.

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Old 09-18-2011, 11:40 PM   #1833
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thank you i was unaware that the settings were so important.

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Old 09-19-2011, 01:10 AM   #1834
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What tab are you supposed to remove to separate the heating and cooling?

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Old 09-19-2011, 01:53 AM   #1835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_Ranged_Eskimo View Post
What tab are you supposed to remove to separate the heating and cooling?
There are no tabs on the controller itself to separate heating and cooling. If you wired heating and cooling to one duplex outlet, there are tabs connecting the respective terminals (hot and neutral) together for both outlets. Depending on how you wired it, you will need to break one or both.
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:55 PM   #1836
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Thanks CWI, I'm still not sure which ones to break off, so I'll try and explain where my wires run and see if you can give me a little more insight. While the outlet is facing up, I have the top left post conntected to #2 on controller, bottom left post runs to the extension cord, top right post connected to #6, and bottom right post connected to #8.

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Old 09-19-2011, 03:52 PM   #1837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_Ranged_Eskimo View Post
Thanks CWI, I'm still not sure which ones to break off, so I'll try and explain where my wires run and see if you can give me a little more insight. While the outlet is facing up, I have the top left post conntected to #2 on controller, bottom left post runs to the extension cord, top right post connected to #6, and bottom right post connected to #8.
i can't quite follow what you wrote, but look at this picture and see that brass tab between the two screws on the outlet (where the white wire is going in), the tab kinda has a little open part in the middle of it? that's the tab you need to break off on the HOT side, you can leave the neutral tab in place and just attach one neutral wire to that side.

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Old 09-19-2011, 05:06 PM   #1838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by android View Post
i can't quite follow what you wrote, but look at this picture and see that brass tab between the two screws on the outlet (where the white wire is going in), the tab kinda has a little open part in the middle of it? that's the tab you need to break off on the HOT side, you can leave the neutral tab in place and just attach one neutral wire to that side.
Same as this:



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Old 09-19-2011, 07:05 PM   #1839
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Thanks for the help guys. I'm a visual guy, reading something without photos doesn't always do proper justice.

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Old 09-19-2011, 07:19 PM   #1840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by android View Post
i can't quite follow what you wrote, but look at this picture and see that brass tab between the two screws on the outlet (where the white wire is going in), the tab kinda has a little open part in the middle of it? that's the tab you need to break off on the HOT side, you can leave the neutral tab in place and just attach one neutral wire to that side.
That would work, if the "right" side of the outlet is the hot side, and if he is switching the HOT wire, and not the neutral. The somewhat ambiguous, but more correct, answer is the tab between the heating and cooling switched wires is what needs to be broken.

This brings up a question I posted awhile ago. Should we be switching the neutral wire? The schematic of my freezer shows that is what it switches. One guy retrofitted (removed original thermostat) a freezer and it wouldn't work switching the hot side. I think it has to do with the start capacitor not functioning correctly when switching the hot. That, and if the freezer has one (cap) or not, and also needs it to help start because the motor is worn out.
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