Originally Posted by physast
I can't seem to upload my diagram file, but this is what I was thinking.
From chrod connected to the wall socket:
- Hot goes to pins 1, and 7 (cooling only)
- neutural goes to pin 2 and is tied to ground to the original ground of the fridge (basically nothing changed except now linked to pin 2)
- pin 8 out to the fridge + terminal (power to fridge)
Does this sound right? Assuming that the fridge will stay on all the time. Looking at the picture I could tie a resistor to the NTC of the fridge to trick it to stay on. What ohm resistor should be used?
Thank you for your help.
My recommendation is to wire up the standard box, especially if you do not already have the knowledge to perform a retrofit. It is much more reusable and flexible that way. There seems to be a trend that the only people wanting to perform a retrofit are those that don't know how. Those that do know how do not see any benefit, and build the standard box.
Things to consider-
Virtually all peltier based (thermoelectric) coolers ultimately operate on DC power. You will need to check the operating voltage at the point you are attempting to tie into, as it may be DC. You will need a multi-meter for this, as well as for checking what value of resistor will force the unit to be "always on". One can be had for less than $10.
Peltier devices (single stage ones at least) are limited to ~40F below ambient. Using this controller to set a lower temperature will not overcome that limit.
Peltier devices have very low efficiency. I would guess about 1/4 (or less) of the input power. This could be an issue for keeping up with the heat output of the beer/wort if used as a fermentation chiller. It depends highly on ambient temps.
You previously mentioned connecting the "neutral" wire to the "ground" wire of the cooler. Unless you meant the neutral of the fridge as well, this is not correct, and is potentially dangerous. It may work, but not on a GFCI portected outlet.