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05-06-2011, 02:11 PM
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#1401
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Senior Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 158
Liked 7 Times on 5 Posts
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I have the 220VAC unit. The transformer in mine is the BV302S10013-JY-A model, but the relays are the 12A and 15A models that are in the 110VAC unit shown by Wayne. Strange.
Anyway, I'd be up for sending my controller to someone to have the transformer swapped out. I already ordered a 110VAC controller from uni_mart, but I can use a 2nd one anyway.
If we get enough brewers to make it worth while send me your address and I'll ship it off to you.
Thanks,
e
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05-06-2011, 02:25 PM
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#1402
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Jackson, New Jersey
Posts: 494
Liked 14 Times on 14 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne1
With shipping that breaks down to roughly $5.50 each, to Colorado. I am willing to order five transformers. I can install them in the circuit boards and ship them back. Shipping to and from CO will entail at least another $10.00 for USPS small package flat rate boxes.
So is it worth it for a minimum of $15.50 to get the transformer changed to work on 110V AC?
Or, are there five people in CO who have these units and want them changed to 110?
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I wouldn't need you to install it for me but if you place an order let me know. I will paypal you to send me one in a padded envelope usps.
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05-06-2011, 02:32 PM
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#1403
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Cedar Falls, IA
Posts: 79
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if this works I need 2 of them so i would get in on an order too if someone wants to order them and re-ship.
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05-06-2011, 02:33 PM
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#1404
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: cleveland, ohio
Posts: 242
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Help please!
I am not sure where I screwed up, but the only parts of my system that work are the temp sensors (which I'm currently calibrating with ice water) and the fridge compressor. I've checked the ciruit for the lamp (heater) with a basic circuit tester and have nothing. Any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated!!!
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05-06-2011, 03:01 PM
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#1405
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 1,002
Liked 36 Times on 30 Posts Likes Given: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickN72
if this works I need 2 of them so i would get in on an order too if someone wants to order them and re-ship.
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I'll let this run for a couple of days. Please PM me if you want me to order the 110 volt transformer for you. If there is enough interest, perhaps the shipping to me will be reduced.
I can install them on your circuit board for you, for a nominal fee. If you feel you can so this, then I will just ship the transformers to you. USPS Priority Flat Rate Small shipping box works best for me. Cost is $5.20 anywhere in the lower 48 states.
Any other shipping package or method will take more of my time and would be charged extra. I am not doing this to make any money. Just to help out some folks who ordered the wrong part.
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05-06-2011, 03:05 PM
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#1406
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 1,330
Liked 13 Times on 13 Posts
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by rudu81
Help please!
I am not sure where I screwed up, but the only parts of my system that work are the temp sensors (which I'm currently calibrating with ice water) and the fridge compressor. I've checked the ciruit for the lamp (heater) with a basic circuit tester and have nothing. Any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated!!!
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You have it wired incorrectly.
You need to tie all the neutrals together. They do NOT go through the switch. Then you need to splice the hot wire, and run it to the input, as well as one side of each relay. Then, wire each hot from the heating/cooling appliance to the other side of the relay.
It would probably be easiest to see the original wiring diagram, I think it's in the first post.
__________________
Facebite Brewing
Conditioning: Muddy Paw Nut Brown Ale, Jump The Fence Independence Cream Ale
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05-06-2011, 03:39 PM
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#1407
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: cleveland, ohio
Posts: 242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o4_srt
You have it wired incorrectly.
You need to tie all the neutrals together. They do NOT go through the switch. Then you need to splice the hot wire, and run it to the input, as well as one side of each relay. Then, wire each hot from the heating/cooling appliance to the other side of the relay.
It would probably be easiest to see the original wiring diagram, I think it's in the first post.
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Wow, am I stupid. Either that or I had a massive brain fart.
Before I go and screw this up again, is this diagram correct? Thanks!!
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05-06-2011, 04:08 PM
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#1408
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 1,881
Liked 18 Times on 18 Posts Likes Given: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudu81
Wow, am I stupid. Either that or I had a massive brain fart.
Before I go and screw this up again, is this diagram correct? Thanks!!
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No
Go back to the diagram on the first post in the thread.
5&6 are for heat,
7&8 are for cool.
You still show heat and compressor coming off 8
Edit: And you need a blue line going to #2
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05-06-2011, 04:13 PM
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#1409
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 1,330
Liked 13 Times on 13 Posts
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by rudu81
Wow, am I stupid. Either that or I had a massive brain fart.
Before I go and screw this up again, is this diagram correct? Thanks!!
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Don't worry, I did the same thing. The original schematic is correct. No need to make a new one
__________________
Facebite Brewing
Conditioning: Muddy Paw Nut Brown Ale, Jump The Fence Independence Cream Ale
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05-06-2011, 05:11 PM
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#1410
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: cleveland, ohio
Posts: 242
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Third time the charm?
I really do appreciate all the help!!!!!!!!!!!! 
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