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Old 03-26-2011, 01:52 AM   #1131
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i was having the same problem could you draw up what you did Agezzi!



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Old 03-26-2011, 02:03 AM   #1132
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Originally Posted by bootin-gluten View Post
I found the post by shackled on page 93 of this thread

Just a tip. Not everyone here has the # of posts per page set the same. Much better to use the posting number rather than the page. To me we are currently on page #29 Your post was #1126


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Old 03-26-2011, 02:08 AM   #1133
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i was having the same problem could you draw up what you did Agezzi!
Ya I can but I'm out to dinner with the girl friend so I'll post it in the morn. It was simple after I looked at the package it came in.
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:20 AM   #1134
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My temp controller is on the way and I should be starting the build soon

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Old 03-26-2011, 12:58 PM   #1135
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Default relay re-wire

the full diagram is the one from this thread,and that is how i had it wired and it didn't work(the relay). The other pic is how I had to wire the relay from radio shack, the power to the relay stayed the same. the only thing i did is add a new wire for the fan(that went to 4) and took the cold and moved it to 6. now everything works just fine. Hope this helps. edit: sorry for the small pic





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Old 03-26-2011, 01:09 PM   #1136
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Originally Posted by iaefebs View Post

Just a tip. Not everyone here has the # of posts per page set the same. Much better to use the posting number rather than the page. To me we are currently on page #29 Your post was #1126


And for me, we are only on page 15.

What makes is really bad is that the SEARCH function doesn't even respect that user setting. It will come back with results saying that the thing you are looking for is on "page X" of a thread. You can see a snippet of the post in the search results, but when you click the link, it will take you to the wrong page.
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:09 PM   #1137
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Just wanted to show the finished job. I bought two temp controllers, so I have any extra one. Has anyone thought of using one of these to use for mashing and controlling a pump? And maybe some how controlling a burner. Any ideas?









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Old 03-27-2011, 05:19 PM   #1138
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Default RCA Jack/plug

Further back in this thread someone was questioning as to weather the sensor could be retrofitted with an RCA style plug/ jack combination in order to move the mounting box and not disturb the sensor(which must enter the refrigerator/ freezer). Easy enough to do, but there was a the question of added resistance. Anybody tried it,and did you have problems? Thanks.

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Old 03-28-2011, 04:34 AM   #1139
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I didn't use a RCA jack and plug but i did use an RJ45 jack and plug on mine with no difference that I can tell. I did not measure the resistance however, I just put the sensor in a glass of ice water and got the same display readings both times. If you do have a problem, I think the controller has a setting to adjust the sensors readings slightly. Or, most people make an excel chart to convert between the temperature scales. If you have a difference of temp with the RCA plugs, you could figure that into your conversion chart equation as well.

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Old 03-30-2011, 04:24 PM   #1140
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If you think locating the existing temp sensor/thermocouple is difficult, or wiring up the aquarium controller in a project box is too much work, you are in for a surprise when you try to find all the wires to replace the factory controller. The temp sensor should be inside the fridge somewhere fairly obvious. If it is a wired resistive type, which is likely since the factory controller is digital, the fix will be easy.

The resistive sensor should increase its resistance as the temperature increases. Cutting the wires will create an open circuit, infinite resistance. The controller will either think the temp is hot, and your problem is solved; or throw an error, and not function. If it does not function, a resistor with a value that is the same as some arbitrarily hot temp needs to replace the cut sensor. This value can be determined by measuring the resistance of the sensor when heated to an appropriate temperature (room?). A little research could also be done to find the resistance ranges of sensors similar the the factory one. The physical size of the resistor will be tiny- smaller than a tic-tac, with a wire out each end.

For the "heating the sensor" approach, the heat source is tiny- ~1/4 watt I would think. Just enough to raise the temp to 60F or so. Search this site, or google, for how to use an A/C window unit to make a walk-in cooler. It has been done before, with how-to instructions, and various heat sources. The power for the heat source will come from the same place you power the fridge- an outlet. If you are having trouble figuring out how to tap into hot and neutral to run a couple of wires to a heat source, you may be in over your head.

Sensor/thermocouple types- I have explained more than once how to determine what type of factory sensor/thermocouple you have. It will be apparent once you find it. If not, ask again after you find it.

Just to be clear, none of my solutions attempt to "fix" the factory controller so that it functions properly. I have only suggested ways to force your fridge into a state where the compressor is perpetually on, if plugged directly into the wall. You will still have the build some version of the "aquarium controller project box", and plug the fridge into it.
The thermocouple is a two-wire type. I cut it (with the power off of course) which resulted in an error on the display and a lovely high-pitched alarm. Any idea what size resistor I should be looking for?


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