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Mad_Milo · 03-22-2011, 04:17 PM

Double/triple check your wire connections. Look for stray wires that are bridging gaps. Use a voltmeter to see if/where you have voltage.

Tug on the connections at the controller, make sure they are tight.

Does it power up at all after holding the power button for >5 seconds?

Bjornbrewer · 03-22-2011, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sillyburt

anyone have any idea besides just getting another one?

I don't think overloading the relay will fry the entire unit. I think you just have a dude there. If the display worked and the relay wasn't switching I'd say you could replace the relay, but I think you're SOL.

You do have power to the unit???

Bjornbrewer · 03-22-2011, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bootin-gluten

Hey all,
I'm trying to replace the stock thermostat in my kegerator with one of the ebay ones. I've attached a diagram of what I think I should be doing. Can someone let me know if this makes sense?

I don't think I should require heating, do I need a jumper or something for those spots?

Also, can I use speaker wire for the connections? I have some of that lying around.

Thanks in advance!

I don't understand what you have going on there. you should have the power going to the controller (pins 1 and 2) right off the input cord (black and white). Then I think you should have pin 7 wire to the black input and pin 8 go to the red of the compressor (before the overload protector!)

bootin-gluten · 03-22-2011, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bjornbrewer

I don't understand what you have going on there. you should have the power going to the controller (pins 1 and 2) right off the input cord (black and white). Then I think you should have pin 7 wire to the black input and pin 8 go to the red of the compressor (before the overload protector!)

So like this?

Seems to make more sense, I was just getting confused by what some of the other people were doing. If I do nothing with the heating circuit, what will happen if the temp. drops below the set point? This might happen on a very cold winter day.

Should I tap into the power cord from the fridge or give the controller a dedicated line?

**RonRock** · 03-22-2011, 08:40 PM

bootin-gluten, do you have a plug in cord still connected to your fridge? If so you do not need to mess with the wiring in the fridge at all. Simply get a good extension cord (12 gage=best, 14 gage=OK) and chop it in half. Use one half to feed the controller, the other half with the female plug receptical to plug the fridge into. No need to mess with the fridge.

bootin-gluten · 03-22-2011, 08:58 PM

Yeah, the fridge is still intact. The problem is that the stock thermostat doesn't signal the compressor to turn on unless the temperature varies from the set point by 10 degrees F. I think your strategy will just turn the fridge on and not the compressor, giving me the same problem as before. I think I need to replace the stock thermostat.

**RonRock** · 03-22-2011, 09:09 PM

Is this a fairly new fridge? Or an older one like would typically be found in a garage? Well at least my garage. I only ask because it sure don't seem to me like you should have to replace the thermostat, that is what the controller is for. A 10* swing sounds like a lot, so maybe you will need to cut into the wiring. Sounds like Bjornbrewer is trying to help you with that. I should have read the whole series before stepping in. I just didn't want you to cut into your wiring if not necessary.

bootin-gluten · 03-22-2011, 09:26 PM

Yeah, I guess I mis-typed thermostat when I really meant controller. The controller is simply not engaging the compressor until there is a very large temperature deviation from the set point. This is where the wiring question came in.

**RonRock** · 03-22-2011, 09:37 PM

OK, is this an older fridge or newer unit? If newer I would suggest fixing the fridge controller first, then you can make the new controller work.

bootin-gluten · 03-23-2011, 12:15 AM

The fridge was made in 2005 (I would define this as 'newer') but perhaps I'm not explaining the problem adequately. The stock controller is garbage, which is why I want to replace it. I bought the ebay controller but I'm not 100% sure about the wiring, which was my original query. Does this make more sense? The revised diagram (thank you Bjornbrewer) is provided below again if someone wants to comment on it. Does this make sense for replacing the stock controller?

Should I split the power cord to the fridge for powering the controller or should I give it a dedicated line?