nutty_gnome

Recipes 

I wired mine up over the weekend. I'm an idiot with this stuff but even I was able to get it to work without too much trouble. A nice unit that does what it says it will do. I'll keep my eye out for another for my eventual fermentation chamber.

__________________
N_G
It could be worse.

Weissbier

Recipes 

I tried to wire mine up with an Auberins thermocouple and it didnt work. This model to be specific, http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_ id=109 I would be interested to know if the controller would work with another probe as well. I had little luck searching for Replacement NTC Probes, this was about all I could find...

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955

__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Tap 1: Empty
Tap 2: Orange Honey Heff
Primary 1: Ejection Seat Wheat
Primary 2: "Holy Wit"
Primary 3: Wilkens Wit
Secondary 1: Empty
Secondary 2: Empty
Bottled:
Next Up: Fat Tire

ubermick

Recipes 

Ordered mine last night to control the guts of the mini fridge I just tore apart. Looking forward to finally being able to ferment at stable temperatures - hooray!

__________________
Hey look, a Brutus! | Hey look, a keezer! | Hey look, a milling station!

Mose

Recipes 

My RIS just gushed all over my basement, partially due to bad temp control. I ordered mine today and will be building a ferm chamber right away before more precious wort drains across the floor.

rcm_rx7

Recipes 

The instructions that came with my controller say it's rated for 15A.

__________________
Fermenting: Centennial Blonde
On Deck: Haven't decided
Kegged: IIPA, Mac & Jacks Clone, American Barleywine
Fermentation Chamber Project

Jawbox0

Recipes 

Hmm, now I'm curious what it should be, the confusion appears to be that the specs in the auction are for the 220V version:

# Relay contact capacity (Heating): 10A (max) 250 V
# Relay contact capacity (Cooling):10 A (max) 250 V

I'd love to pick up another and wire it into my HLT if it handles 15A@110. It might even encourage me to pick up one more for RIMS on my MLT.

MatterOne

Recipes 

I need some help. I think I'm missing something.

I built my temp controller, and it worked fine at first, but after the heater kicked in and got the temp up to where I want it and the heater turned off, it never turned back on. The temperature dropped below where I have it set, but didn't turn back on. Now, I've been messing with it for a couple days, and it's been below temperature and had the "heat" light on, but it's also been below temp and the heat light didn't come on. Now, earlier tonight I didn't have anything plugged into it, and the light was on. When I plugged my heater in, it turned on and got it up to the right temperature, but then it wouldn't turn on again when it cooled down.

I double-checked the wiring, and it's wired just like Android's diagram.

Any ideas/suggestions?

wyzazz

Recipes 

What happens if you just plug in a light bulb or lamp to the heater outlet instead? Is the heater drawing more than 10-15amps?

__________________

MatterOne

Recipes 

Good question. I thought of that same thing, so I switched from using a heater to using a Goldenrod (meant to be used as a gun safe dehumidifier). It draws very little power and I still have the same problem.

Scimmia

Recipes 

Two things

First, it has to be below where you have it set by a specific amount. That's the differential adjustment. If you have it set at 5C with a differential of 1C, it won't turn on the heat until the temp gets to 4C.

Second, if the temp is dropping quickly, you could be running into the anti short cycle delay. After it turns off, it won't turn back on within that amount of time.