Easy Steam Infusion Mash System - Page 21

orangehero · 07-04-2010, 06:29 PM

Is there any reason why you have the steam manifold stationary?

If you're not trying to get automated control, could you simply construct some kind of steam injecting mash paddle? That way you can stir and heat simultaneously.

And is anyone running output from the steam source at greater than 1/4" tubing/piping? If so, how is your performance?

mhermetz · 11-26-2010, 02:27 AM

Looking for Christmas ideas and this seems like a winner!

Think this electric pressure cooker will work for 5 gallon?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00854625000P?sid=IDx20070921x00003h& srccode=cii_5784816&cpncode=24-115903928-2

**jimmayhugh** · 07-30-2011, 08:20 PM

I'm ramping up to start doing AG, and really like the idea of using steam, so here's my setup so far...

I've got my march pump, another 10Gal HLT, and just got a 50qt pot that needs a weldless fitting.

Slowly but surely...

**helibrewer** · 12-20-2011, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmayhugh

I'm ramping up to start doing AG, and really like the idea of using steam, so here's my setup so far...

I've got my march pump, another 10Gal HLT, and just got a 50qt pot that needs a weldless fitting.

Slowly but surely...

So UPS delivered an "All American 21.5 Qt Aluminum Pressure Cooker" today that looks just like yours. If you have a moment please let me know what hardware you used to add the valve to the lid. My wife cans so we'll both get to use it, I love multipurpose

**helibrewer** · 12-29-2011, 05:12 AM

Has anyone tried this without venting the steam into the wort? I was wondering about using a mini immersion chiller type configuration with just a couple loops and venting the steam outside the MLT. I though you might still be able to have very good temp control without the superheated steam coming in contact with the wort. This, along with a recirc pump might eliminate the need to stir.

Just a thought.

**jimmayhugh** · 12-29-2011, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by helibrewer

So UPS delivered an "All American 21.5 Qt Aluminum Pressure Cooker" today that looks just like yours. If you have a moment please let me know what hardware you used to add the valve to the lid. My wife cans so we'll both get to use it, I love multipurpose

Here's a photo, sorry the light's bad, and I'm kind of shakey

The t, and nipple are 1/8" NPT, then the 1/8" to 1/4" adapter, a 1/4" brass ball valve, and a 3/8" hose barb, all purchased at Home Depot.

Again, sorry for the less than ideal photo.

The manifold is 3/8" soft copper tubing, with a 3/8" compression fitting, a 3/8" check valve from McMaster-Carr, and another 3/8" hose barb.. I use 3/8" hi-temp silicone tubing, and have replaced the screw clamp with zip-ties to secure everything.

Hope this helps.

amb1935 · 12-31-2011, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlyGuy

[Disclaimer: Although this worked for me, I do not recommend tampering or modifying a pressure cooker in any way. Modifying or removing safety devices on a pressure cooker can lead to explosion and possible injury. Blah, blah, blah...]

Pressure cooker: Pretty much any decent size pressure cooker (use AT LEAST a 1.5 gal unit) will work, although I wish I had gone with a much bigger unit (see below). If you are lucky, you might be able to unscrew one of the fittings on your pot, insert a tee junction, and run attach your valve to the pot this way (worked for brewman !; see here). The fittings on my pot were too small, so I tapped a 1/8” NPT thread into the lid, and screwed in my valve to control the flow of steam. Works perfectly. I also added a 3 inch piece of 1/4" copper tubing to the valve (it has a built in 1/4" compression fitting) to attach the tubing. A 3/8" inch hose clamp would be a good idea – mine held without it…. until I kinked the silicone tubing and it blew the hose right off the pot!

Steam manifold: I bent 3/8" tubing around a small pot to form a loop. I sweated a T junction to complete the loop. I then drilled about eight 1/16" holes in the tubing with a drill to allow the steam to escape. The silicone tubing can be stretched over the end of the T junction, and mine was snug enough that it did not require a hose clamp. A small thumb clamp can be added to the hose if you want to stop the flow of steam at the manifold end (useful to prevent backflow when the steam flow is stopped at the pot).

Did you have any trouble tapping the new hole in the pressure cooker lid for the new valve to screw into? I'm about to do the same (although maybe with a larger diameter) and am a bit worried about drilling and tapping a hole in the thin metal lid. I have no experience in tapping new threads. Thanks!

**helibrewer** · 01-27-2012, 05:31 PM

I've made a progression toward a SRIMS setup. Rather than have the copper manifold in the MLT, I enclosed the steam tube in a 3/4" copper pipe forming a heat exchanger. I use my March pump to pump through the heat exchanger then through my CPVC manifold into the MLT.

rognick17 · 03-31-2012, 02:46 PM

Thanks for your excellent post. I'm building a system based on it, starting with a 15.5 pressure canner (used, from eBay)..

Did you give any thought to running the steam supply line through the wall of the mash-tun?

supersillyis · 05-03-2012, 05:26 PM

I am going to build a steam heating system using a bucket with a drum tap and my induction burner. After reading most of the thread; why even use a manifold? Why not just cap the end of the silicon hose and poke a bunch of small holes in it and lay it along the bottom of the vessel? can anyone think of any reason not to?