If I am using it to sterilize equipment, then just an inch of water or so.
If I am using it for steam injection in the mash, then I put about 3 gals in it. You will never come close to using all of that, but it provides a lot of thermal mass so that you can really transfer a lot of heat to your mash tun at once.
I also put about 3 gallons in. Two weeks ago I did two 12 gallon batches back-to-back and had an inch of water left in the pot.
Is anyone using a false bottom in place of a manifold? Any problems with this?
I would like to add, that I have been using this technique for countless batches, and just wanted to thank the author for the innovation.
I went from a cooler to a keg MLT. Here's what I did:
Cooler with drain/steam manifold, batch sparging:
Keg with false bottom and separate steam ring, fly sparging:
The holes in the ring point at different angles to evenly distribute the steam.
__________________
Up Next: Some sort of big stout
Fermenting: Turbid Mash Spelt pLambic, Kriek, Sacchless Pale Ale, Sour Belgian Dark Strong
Drinking: Trois Levure Saison, Black IPA, 2011 Hop Harvest IPA, Sour Blonde, American Barleywine, Dopplebock
30 gallons YTD
Last edited by dstar26t; 02-05-2010 at 01:02 PM.
Reason: updated pic
First of all, this thread is AWESOME, lots of cool ideas. I have a couple of questions...
dstar26 - have you used your setup yet? Is the recirculation enough movement to not have to stir? That would be really ideal
Anyone - If i get a 23 qt pressure cooker, fill it half way with water upstairs and start get it up to pressure. Would there be enough stored energy in it to do a step mash without it being on direct heat? I'm trying to avoid putting a burner in by my RIG.
Still have to stir, there is a lot of instant heat in the steam.
You're going to need a burner under it and I wouldn't recommend carrying around a pressurized pressure cooker anyway.
__________________
Up Next: Some sort of big stout
Fermenting: Turbid Mash Spelt pLambic, Kriek, Sacchless Pale Ale, Sour Belgian Dark Strong
Drinking: Trois Levure Saison, Black IPA, 2011 Hop Harvest IPA, Sour Blonde, American Barleywine, Dopplebock
30 gallons YTD
what type of burner are you guys using? The info that came with my pressure cooker said not to use a "turkey fryer" burner, should I just ignore this?
I think the reason it say not to use a Turkey fryer is because it's designed for a stove top. Mine said the same thing but I've used it on a turkey fryer. I also think its because a turkey fryer is normally rated to be higher BTU then a stove (don't quote me I'm making an assumption) and that people might step inside the house when running it to do something. I've noticed on mine that once it is pressured, it goes up pretty quick in PSI and I can see someone stepping in for a split second and the relief valve blowing out or worse the pressure cooker goes Chernobyl. Just my two cents.....I'm probably totally wrong. If you use a TF watch it closely.
I use a SQ-14. When adding steam to the mash, it's on full blast and the steam pressure still goes down. I have to let it recharge 1-2 times when going to mashout, depending on grain bill.
__________________
Up Next: Some sort of big stout
Fermenting: Turbid Mash Spelt pLambic, Kriek, Sacchless Pale Ale, Sour Belgian Dark Strong
Drinking: Trois Levure Saison, Black IPA, 2011 Hop Harvest IPA, Sour Blonde, American Barleywine, Dopplebock
30 gallons YTD
Hello folks, new member here. Apologies for resurrecting this thread - it seemed like the most appropriate place for my question. I'm a long time lurker with grand plans for steam driven mashing using a pressure cooker.
I'd prefer an all-electric solution for steam generation, and I've got 220v power available. I've not been able to find any external heating in the 4000+ watt range except for band heaters which would get expensive.
There's another thread that shows a heating element built into a corny keg for steam generation. My thoughts run to modifying the pressure cooker to take a heating element. That probably means drilling through the side of the cooker and mounting the element there. And heck, let's drill another hole for a temperature probe while we're at it, so I can run it with a PID. Goal would be to automate the system to maintain pressure at some point below 15 psi.
To note, I'm speaking of modifying a 23qt aluminum pressure cooker already in my posession. I'd leave the other safety features in place: pressure relief valve & emergency pop out pressure relief valve (present on this model).
Given appropriate mounting and leak testing, do you think the structural integrity of the pressure cooker would be significantly affected? Dangerously so?
I'd like to do the same.
My idea is to drill and tap for 1" NPT in the side of the pressure cooker and thread in the water heater element. Any thoughts on this before I potentially destroy a 80$ vessel or inadvertently create a steam rocket?
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