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-   -   Easy Homemade Secondary Regulator (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/easy-homemade-secondary-regulator-319033/)

mendozer 04-06-2012 01:28 AM

Easy Homemade Secondary Regulator
 
I bought a secondary off ebay but added two more bodies on for a 4 way setup. It's very easy. If I had known about this source of the regulator bodies, I would have done it all from scratch

Surplus Store

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...4-05180554.jpg
I went to Harbor Freight for the 1/4" ball valves and quick disconnect; Adventures in Homebrewing for the 1/4" NPT x 1/4" male flare adapters; Home depot for the pipe nipples, and two 1/4" to barb valves came with my original. I will keep one as a spare and am using one for the end of my regulator setup.

keeping a valve on the end will keep the system closed if I have to remove the CO2 tank. that three piece setup you see on the right is the incoming pieces from the CO2 tank.

From right to left:
1. male disconnect hooked up to 1/4" barb and that will come from the primary regulator
2. female disconnect will be sticking outside of my keezer collar
3. hose barb and 1/4" female coupling to be inside the keezer. The coupling will actually be inside the wood as it goes through

This setup is all flare because I wanted the ease and it really didn't cost much more (I'm dirt poor so if I can do it...). I'm not worried about check valves b/c I have in line check valves that will be a few inches from the gain-in disconnect on the keg. The disconnect on the outside makes it easier for maintenance for tank removal. plus i saw the disconnects and they were so cheap so I had to do it b/c it looked like a cool idea

cost:
Initial secondary off ebay: $50 (although if you start from scratch, less)
4 ball valves, 1/4" plug, male/female disconnect set: $19
2 additional bodies plus gauges: $36
2 extra pipe nipples, female hose barb, coupling: $10
Adapters: $12.30 including shipping

total cost (assuming I'm remembering everything): $127.30

If I had done the initial bodies from scratch it would be about $15 less.

that's $113 - $127 for something that costs $140 for taprite, $241 for micromatics, or $210 for the economy one from Beverage Factory. And those are without flares if you wanted them.

Just thought I'd share since it was fun to make and will be a sweet addition to my keezer.

discooby 04-06-2012 11:29 AM

+1 ref

krazydave 04-06-2012 01:31 PM

Something to think about... those ball valves don't have check valves in them, so always be mindful of pressure changes since the risk of sucking beer back into your lines and regulator is a very real risk. My check valves have saved my butt a couple of times now.

mendozer 04-06-2012 03:14 PM

I know, that's why I have these for my gas lines. they're cheap and stand up to 150 psi. When I purge or even carb, I do so slowly with me there so make sure there's no suck back (at least initially). The other reason i use the inline check valves is I don't even want beer, in theory, going into my ball valve. They're easier maintenance to clean if something happens. Plus, i thought that suckback could be avoided simply by not filling to high or having rapid pressure changes.

for example on my first purging, i disconnected my gas connector without shutting off the ball valve on the primary reg so the pressure sucked beer into the line. It was minor, but before I went to flares so a PITA!

WildPirate 11-15-2012 01:12 AM

If I wanted a set up like the one pictured above, could I also add a high pressure gauge to one end and a high pressure hose from the other end to the tank?

Something like this http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/mer...y_Code=WMReg-4

mendozer 11-15-2012 05:13 AM

that would make it into a 4-way primary right? sounds doable unless there's some pneumatic science behind why it can't be done and i'm not aware of it.

WildPirate 11-15-2012 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mendozer (Post 4591374)
that would make it into a 4-way primary right? sounds doable unless there's some pneumatic science behind why it can't be done and i'm not aware of it.

Ya that's the way I see it. I just looked though, and it seems the max pressure for the body is 300psi. So I guess my question is, if there are four will it hold 1200psi? Or is 300psi still the max? Wouldn't that be too much for the ~800psi in my co2 tank?

BBL_Brewer 11-15-2012 05:32 AM

Thanks for the source for the regulator bodies. I already have everything else I need. Looks like a quick and easy project.

mendozer 11-15-2012 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WildPirate (Post 4591387)
Ya that's the way I see it. I just looked though, and it seems the max pressure for the body is 300psi. So I guess my question is, if there are four will it hold 1200psi? Or is 300psi still the max? Wouldn't that be too much for the ~800psi in my co2 tank?

I will have to defer to someone more knowledgeable about pneumatics here. I would guess that you have to have a primary first then secondaries because of the higher pressure. But then again, how else does that other product that you sent work? Those are 4 low pressure gauges

JuanMoore 11-15-2012 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WildPirate (Post 4590744)
If I wanted a set up like the one pictured above, could I also add a high pressure gauge to one end and a high pressure hose from the other end to the tank?

Something like this http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/mer...y_Code=WMReg-4

You'd need to use all primary regulators to have that exact configuration. The secondary regulators can't handle the tank pressure, so the tank gauge needs to be on the primary regulator. You can step the pressure down with a primary regulator and then feed a bank of secondaries though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by WildPirate (Post 4591387)
Ya that's the way I see it. I just looked though, and it seems the max pressure for the body is 300psi. So I guess my question is, if there are four will it hold 1200psi? Or is 300psi still the max? Wouldn't that be too much for the ~800psi in my co2 tank?

Connecting them together doesn't change the pressure rating. No matter how many of them are connected together, the applied pressure should never exceed 300 psi. You need to reduce the tank pressure with a primary regulator first.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mendozer (Post 4591392)
But then again, how else does that other product that you sent work? Those are 4 low pressure gauges

Those are all primary regulators, each capable of handling full tank pressure. The low pressure gauges simply measure the output, which has absolutely no relationship to the applied pressure that the body is rated to withstand.


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