Draft Beer Tower at the Kitchen Sink
New member as of today but I have been reading the site for at least a year. I know a few are wondering why I would want to do this, but it all started with the sprayer at the kitchen sink. I never use it. I always thought it was a waste of space at the sink. I always wanted to replace it with something. Once I came of age to legally consume I was turned on to microbrews and craft brewing. Why not replace the sprayer with a draft beer tower!
And so the journey begins. I have been wanting to do this project for some time and with all the research I have not been able to find someone that has done exactly as I am doing. I will have my keezer in the basement and run the insulated lines up to the kitchen sink. I picked up my chest freezer at Sears scratch and dent. I looked the freezer over real well and all that I could find was a scratch on the left hand side that didn't even indent the metal. I still need to build the collar. It is big enough to hold 2 half barrels but still not tall enough to go without a collar.
http://www.searsoutlet.com/14-8-cu-f...ipping_length=[0 TO 100]&flt_bdn=Whirlpool&flt_shipping_width=[0 TO 100]&flt_sp=[0 TO 125000]&flt_shipping_height=[0 TO 100]&pn=1&ps=24&pid=86471&mode=seeAll&itemSelectionTyp e=all
I also picked up a PP50 glycol unit from Perlick to make sure I get a nice cold pour each time. This was by far the most expensive part of my kit. But, it is what I want.
To deal with the effect of gravity I also picked up a pump panel from Perlick. Supply the panel with 40 psi of CO2 and adjust the regulators on panel for your beverage choice.
I also picked up some insulated trunk line as well. Although the tower I have now only has 2 faucets, the line has 4 product lines in case I want to expand at a later date.
So far the only work that I have done it drill a hole in my sink for the draft tower and a hole through the bottom of the cabinet into the floor to the basement. Easier said than done. As you can see my sink has a 0.125" lip that makes things a little difficult. To overcome the issue at hand I decided to make a spacer. This space ends up kind of looking like the Chicago Bears logo. To make it I used a 4.5" hole saw to cut out a circle from scrap stainless steel. I then used a 2.5" hole saw to remove the inner circle. The first bit of advice I would give is to use a CD to locate where on the sink you want the tower to go. The tower column is 3.5" in diameter but the base is closer to 5" in diameter. Once I found the spot that I liked I held the tower up several times to check before I drilled the sink. Once I was happy I marked the center of the hole and drilled it using a 2.5" hole saw. I then held the spacer over the hole and matched up the inner side of it with the hole in the sink. I marked where the lip was and cut it out using a cut of wheel. I left a little bit of material to grind away an angle to attept to match the angle of the sink lip. I was happy with what I did.
Next up is to drill a hole in the cabinet bottom and subfloor. The insulated trunk line is about 3.5" in diameter. I used a 4" hole saw to drill the 2 holes.
That is all that I have thus far. Another build day begins tomorrow after work. I hope to finish securing the draft tower to the sink and connect the lines underneath the sink. I ran into an issue with one of the four holes that secures the tower to the sink and I thought I would wait until I had a center punch from work to make sure I don't screw up the last hole. I can at least try and do it the right way...I guess. If there are any questions or comments, feel free to chime in. I have looked for some time and have not been able to find this exact project, but I have seen several similar to it on HBT.
Hahaha Epic.... EPIC..... :mug:
Today after work I finished securing the tower to the sink, connected the lines underneath and ran the trunk down to the freezer. What sucked the most about what I did today was working under the sink. Not sure if any of you guys have ever had to for various reasons, but space is hard to come by. But, it needed to be done.
I grabbed a center punch and right angle drill to get into the spot next to the back splash in order to drill the last hole through the sink. Once all 4 holes were drilled for the #8 hardware I picked up it was time to mount the tower. I put a bead of Marine Goop down in between the spacer I made and the sink. This is a adhesive and sealant all in one. It works wonders! Actually getting the tower into the hole was easy, but getting the fender washer, washer, lock washer and nut on the other side of the bolt was challenging to say the least due to the lack of space. I forgot to snag a picture from underneath of the hardware...
Next up it was time to prep the lines. The 4 lines sticking down from the tower need to be wrapped together so that the glycol lines actually cool the beer. Wrap the lines with packing tape as tightly as you can. Once they are wrapped with packing tape, wrap them with a clear tape to create a vapor barrier (not really sure what to call it). Now cut the lines from the trunk line to the right lengths so that they will connect to the tower lines without too much fight. Next put the solid piece of foam up and over the tower lines, so that when you tape it all up there is a solid line of foam insulation. I cut my trunk lines to where I thought they needed to be and still had to fight them. Don't forget to put the hose clamps on each of the lines, then press them onto the corresponding barbs. Once everything is connected it is time to seal it all up. I tried to get a little overlap with the foam insulation, but I don't think it ended up as I wished. Once all the foam insulation is on the lines, tape them up with duct tape. I made sure to go at least 3 inches below the cut I made on the trunk line and about the same above where the tower foam comes down to.
Now it was time to finish routing the trunk line in the basement. I used some wood screws I had laying around and some pipe hanger tape. Every few floor joists I would hang the trunk line with some hanger tape. I routed the trunk line over to where I want my keezer to be. Be aware of all the other lines in the floor joists. There is a cold water line and a drain I come in contact with. As long as you do not apply a lot of pressure to them you should be in the clear. Hot water and gas lines are another story, that I did not have to deal with.
That is the location that I intend to put my keezer at. For some odd reason my basement has a half wall and I intend to put the cooler on that and run the lines across/above where the sump pump is. No my basement does not flood, I have 2 French drains that drain to the sump pump. If the power goes out, the generator picks up. As you can see in the last pic, I have a lot of trunk line left over. Better to have enough than to come up short.
I won't be able to work on the project tomorrow as I have other plans for the evening but I am going to figure out my collar so that I can have that finished this weekend, I hope. After that all that is left is the electrical aspect. I need to run a line over and make a new outlet so that the sump pump is still on its own dedicated circuit and I can have the keezer, chiller nd my water softner/conditioner on another outlet.
That is seriously cool man. Definitely not messing around!
What's the deal with the pump though? Why do you supply it with 40psi? Are they like CO2 powered pumps?
I am curious to see if the beer will warm up in the lines from the keezer to the sink.
OP, question for you: can you explain the use of the glycol unit and how/what exactly that will be cooling? Thanks
The glycol unit chills the beer in the trunk line from the keezer to the tap.
That's some serious moolah for only having two taps! Go big or go home I guess
Interested to see how it turns out.
this looks awesome!
Awesome ...when I was in college we had a keg hooked up to the actual sprayer...run the line from the basement ...looks awesome with the tower!
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