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Old 09-15-2009, 02:24 AM   #21
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gotchya, i got mine figured out earlier today. i forgot to remove the jumper from the outlet and had the 'fan option' switch in the back of the thermostat on the wrong side. everything was wired OK and once i did those two things, it worked fine. here's the remaining pictures of the SSR connections and back of the inside of the thermostat:

NOTE: i wired the outlets opposite of what they are in the first page of this thread. the DC adapter needed to be plugged into the bottom outlet, so the top outlet became the switched one.

first pic is wiring for the SSR:

black wire top left goes to the wire nut which connects a wire to the bottom outlet (non switched, same outlet that gets the neutral) and the hot wire from the extension/power cord.

black wire top right goes to the top (switched) outlet. make sure to break the jumper from the two outlets.

black wire bottom left is the (+) side of the DC adapter.

blue wire bottom right is the wire that connects to the Rc terminal on the thermostat.


second pic is the thermostat terminals (it looks like the blue wire is also connected to the 'W' terminal, but it's not, it's just where it comes in right behind it):

the blue wire is the one that connects to the SSR in the previous picture.

the black wire on 'G' is the (-) side of the DC power plug.

the red wire is obviously the jumper wire if i want to switch to heating.


last pic is another of the thermostat brains. i needed to switch the 'fan option' to 'HG' in order for it to work on 'auto' instead of just 'on'.


anyway, that's it, it works great. i know there are concerns with defrost cycles and whatnot, but I will probably only be using this for a fridge for 1-2 weeks of fermenting at a time for lagers (my basement seems to work great for ales) and then back to regular fridge function of beer storage, so I don't expect this to be a problem. the only problem i see is if the fridge needs to go down so low to get the carboy to the desired temp that it goes below the built in thermostat. i guess i can just break into it and wire the input/output from the thermostat together to avoid this.

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Last edited by android; 09-15-2009 at 03:03 AM.
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Old 09-15-2009, 03:32 AM   #22
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This is great I was thinking about something like that this morning. I've got a (not being used) thermo is my cupboard. Gonna give it a shot. thanks.

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Old 09-15-2009, 01:42 PM   #23
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I will be finishing up mine this evening. I basically took an arduino i had laying around, added a serial lcd for a display, 2 1-wire thermometers *one inside the fridge and one for room temp* and a sparkfun relay kit to switch the power... just finished the code here at work a few min ago ;-) the nice thing about doing it this way, is that theoretically i could control something like 18 different fridges with having to do nothing more than spend an additional $7 to add another to the setup per fridge.

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Old 09-15-2009, 01:56 PM   #24
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interesting, i'm not familiar with an arduino, can you explain a little more? a write up of yours would be nice to see as well, thanks for the info.

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Old 09-15-2009, 02:14 PM   #25
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i plan on putting one together as i finish it up... need to make it look a lil prettier though as its still just in a prototyping board... but that should be done by tonight or tomorrow. Basically an arduino is a micro-controller that is based on open-source hardware and software. Arduino - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia you can can control all kinds of devices and hardware with them, everything from synchronizing your xmas lights on your house to music, to controlling a keezer.

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Old 09-15-2009, 04:46 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by android View Post
interesting, i'm not familiar with an arduino, can you explain a little more? a write up of yours would be nice to see as well, thanks for the info.
Well the Brewtroller guys have also made it capable of being a fermentation temp cotroller as well. Uses the Sanguino chip (very similiar to the arduino).

Check it out
Latest Updates | BrewTroller

Already put together and functioning, no need to code something up yourself.
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:34 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shildebr View Post
I did this same thing, with a Rite Temp thermostat, it cools down to 30 degrees, and has worked perfectly for me, it can control both cooling and heating, you just need one extra relay for the heating side.

However, living in Texas, haven't needed the heating side yet.....

Does the 6020 really go down that low to 30 degrees?
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Old 09-16-2009, 02:10 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitwit View Post
Does the 6020 really go down that low to 30 degrees?
Sorry, guess it only goes to 35, good enough I think, unless you like beer-cicles.

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Old 09-16-2009, 10:55 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shildebr View Post
Sorry, guess it only goes to 35, good enough I think, unless you like beer-cicles.

I think 35 should still be ok. Thanks
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Old 12-04-2009, 10:07 PM   #30
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In this SSR application, is a heatsink required? I can't tell if you have used one or not. If you have, where have you placed it?

Cheers,

Rhino

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