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Old 05-11-2010, 09:13 PM   #61
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Excellent stuff, Keith - bet they're gonna turn out rockin'. My Armor Etch just arrived (took over two weeks!) so I'm gonna get started on mine today or tomorrow. Just need to find something to use as a transparency, since my local Office Depot and Staples only sell them in packs of 100 for some ludicrous price, and I obviously only want one sheet. You'd think someplace sold them in packs of 10!

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Old 05-11-2010, 10:00 PM   #62
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You could also try using regular paper. They say you can use 84 brightness 20lb paper (or less) and expose it for 3 minutes.

Exposure Times / Tips: http://www.cbridge.com/products/stencilproexposuretimes.shtml

Transparencies seems to be the recommended product and I had some available so that's what I used but it could be worth doing a trial run on a small piece with paper you have on hand.

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Old 05-11-2010, 10:29 PM   #63
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Uber....

Too late for you, but I was able to find ArmourEtch locally at a Michaels Craft store. It was on the aisle with all the wedding stuff.

Maybe it will help the next guy.....


Keith

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Old 05-13-2010, 08:21 PM   #64
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i just ordered a 22oz container of armor etch from overstock for 26.95 including shipping:

http://www.overstock.com/Crafts-Sewing/Glass-Etching-22-ounce-Cream/3485540/product.html?cid=123620&fp=F&ci_src=14110944&ci_sk u=11554855

thought id let you know in case someone was going to be ordered soon

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Old 05-14-2010, 06:23 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diatonic View Post
Looks like to get dishwasher safe you have to let the paint dry for 24 hours, then bake at 325F for 40 minutes. Seems easy enough
If you paint the etching you should probably put the glasses in a cold oven and then turn the oven on, this will help reduce heat shock. Might even try a rest at 250 or something for a while before taking them to the final temp. Also, let them cool in the oven with the door closed so they don't get a cold shock too.
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:26 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6tc View Post
Wow. Thanks guys.

Yeah.... the back acrylic is still covered in the paper that protects it in manufacture, and I also put a piece of black cloth under the Stencil Pro. And yes, I'm using the Hi Res stuff.

A couple things I'm going to try today.... I'll use a glass/hard-backed frame this time... see if light was leaking. And I'll move the "developing" out of the kitchen. It may be too brite in there.

Thanks guys. Good tips, all. Maybe a combonation of all this will get 'er done. Hopefully, I'll be posting picture of the glasses soon!
I suspect that your "sandwich" isn't really rigid enough to give you clean lines either, so even if you are getting good light blocking that could be part of the problem. Also, if you don't think that your "black" is black enough try a couple different paper settings in your printer driver. The driver should let you pick the type of paper you are using. If all of that fails you could try to print 2 transparencies and then line them up on the stencil material, it will be hard to align but should be plenty opaque.
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:50 AM   #67
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Default Stencil designs

Some of these designs have been very helpful to me for my Tiki bar Theme.
http://www.rubberstampplantation.com/store/stencils.htm

Lots of cool ideas.

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Old 06-02-2010, 11:06 AM   #68
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I have to try this!

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Old 06-02-2010, 12:14 PM   #69
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Awesome idea! Thanks for the instruction.

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Old 06-07-2010, 09:30 PM   #70
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Well, I've had pretty crap luck with doing this.

First up, a lot depends on the logo/artwork you're using. If it's detailed at all, it's not going to work - at least that's been my experience. My logo here:

came out okay for the most part, but on four different stencils, following the instruction to the letter (I even have a darkroom with a red LED light to set it all up!) the hops underneath come out as an unidentifiable blob.

The real issue, though, comes from glasses. Most glasses don't have a nice flat (or even curved) surface to use. So you need to adjust your artwork to take into account the warping that a pint glass will produce. If you etch something, say, 3" wide onto a pint glass, it'll look like it's bulging downwards, since the stencil follows the tapering of the glass. I tried this on pilsener glasses too, since the Dollar Trees around here don't seem to carry the normal glasses anymore, and there's no way to get the stencil material onto the glass because of the curves.

Also, don't know if anyone else who's tried this has had the same problem, but the second time I tried to use the Armor etch, it was suddenly filled with little pebbles of dried cream, despite me KNOWING I replaced the cap immediately and tightly. It makes the etching process a lot messier, since those pebbles obviously don't work as well as the more liquid parts of the stuff you're applying.

All in all, I'm really disappointed with the way it turned out for me. I'm not saying it wouldn't work out for others - far from it, and the OP's glasses look awesome - but when I think about how much I've spent on trying to do this:

Glasses from Dollar Tree: $36 (12 standard pint, 24 pilsener style, since they stopped carrying the regular pub glasses)
Armor Etch cream: $16 shipped
Stencil Pro: $32 or so
Transparency sheets: $12

For not much more I could have gotten three dozen professionally done glasses from bargainmugs.com and they'd look a LOT better than the messes I made!

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