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Old 03-24-2011, 03:48 PM   #31
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thanks for the quick response, i certainly like this design over the idea of just using a stopper to plug a hole in the wall for the therm??


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Old 03-24-2011, 03:50 PM   #32
I use secondaries. :p
 
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Originally Posted by tnbrewer371 View Post
ok any idea of what the length of well you would recommend knowing how long my digital therm is?

Not off the top of my head, but...

Just do the steps listed in message #2 of this thread, and then put your probe through the hole from the outside to see how far it sticks into the tun. Cut your copper as long/short as needed.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:24 PM   #33
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Another big thanks going out to Walker!

I just picked up all the parts today and I'm going to do the install tonight. I was hoping to find a cap for the 1/4” tubing instead of crimping the end, but no luck at the local Ace Hardware. The only modification I did to the design was to go with a 1/4” flare fitting and adapted to 1/8” FIP for the inside of the tun. It might have saved me a buck or so, and I already have a flare tool. I did get a 1/8” FIP cap for the outside and I'm planning on drilling it like your original idea. Thankfully the local Ace Hardware had a much bigger selection of fittings than Home Depot.

Thanks for the inspiration.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:52 PM   #34
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You might consider soldering the end closed just to be safe.
That's what I was going to say. There is no way that crimp is going to remain sealed after a few heat/cool cycles. Other than that, I'm putting this on my to-do list. Thanks.

Last edited by horseinmay; 09-14-2011 at 10:53 PM. Reason: wording
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:54 PM   #35
I use secondaries. :p
 
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That's what I was going to say. There is no way that crimp is going to remain sealed after a few heat/cool cycles. Other than that, I'm putting this on my to-do list. Thanks.
The crimp has remained closed and leak free through dozens of brew sessions.
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Old 10-08-2011, 03:26 AM   #36
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Here's what I used:
(1) 1/4" OD copper tubing (about 8 inches of it) - $1.25
(2) 1/4" FIP x 1/8" brass compression coupling - $1.75
(3) 2" long 1/8" MIP brass pipe nipple (shank) - $2.00
(4) 1/8" FIP brass coupling - $2.25 (*see below)
(5) two 3/8" stainless steel washers - $0.75
(6) o-ring - $
.
Just built one for my keggle and MLT. Cost more than your prices, but still not bad.

Thanks Walker, great DIY for something I've been wanting. Still saved over 50%
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:25 PM   #37
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Just wanted to post some pictures of my thermowell completed.

I crimped and soldered the end. The thermowell sits around the 2gal mark on the tun.


I used a flare fitting instead of a compression fitting. Just my preference. I have a flare tool sitting around anyway.


I also put a 1/4" cap on the end and drilled a hole.


A worth simple DIY that will make you happy you did.
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Old 10-12-2011, 01:11 AM   #38
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Nice pics! Been meaning to do that for a year now. Think I might get off my a** and do it. Thanks.

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Old 11-20-2011, 09:25 PM   #39
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gotta put one of these on my HLT... gettin ready to build a 3 tier stand and climbing a ladder to stick a thermometer in the top is not appealing to me.
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:11 PM   #40
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I don't know if it's consider bad form to dig up old threads but I wanted to thank the contributors here for helping me with my own thermowell for my plastic fermentation bucket. Now I will be able to tell what temp my beer is at, rather than trying to guesstimate based on ambient temperature and blind luck.


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