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| Friday Night light posted. New hop (Target) added | Dual Faucet Glycol Tower $225 | Brewmasters Warehouse is open!!! |
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#1 | ||
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I use secondaries. :p
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#2 |
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I use secondaries. :p
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I started by drilling a 3/8" hole through the wall of my mashtun.
![]() Then I shoved the shank through the hole (it was a TIGHT fit and I almost had to hammer it through). The shank was just barely long enough to fit through the wall of the cooler, and I left a little more threading exposed on the inside compared to the outside. ![]() To seal everything on the inside, I wrapped the threads with teflon tape and pushed an o-ring onto it as far as I could. ![]() On the ouside, I just needed a nut and washer here so that I could get the opposing force necessary to mash my seal on the inside later. A simple nut or a 1/8" pipe cap with a hole drilled in it for the probe would have been great, but I was stuck with a coupling. I put it on just hand-tight at this point. ![]() Addng this port through the tun wall was the hard part. |
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#3 |
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I use secondaries. :p
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To make the rest of the well, I cranked the compression fitting onto one end of the copper tube until it squealed like a piggy and made a solid connection to the tube.
![]() I measured how far my small digital thermometer probe would stick through the shank and cut the copper tube a couple inches longer than that, just to give myself some room to play with incase my next probe thermometer was longer. I had considered just making it long enough for that really long probe thermometer from the first picture, but that would have needed a well that extended all the way across the diameter of the tun (which would have made getting my false bottom in and out a challenge). ![]() This tubing is soft, so I just crimped the end of it closed with my vice. ![]() |
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#4 |
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I use secondaries. :p
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Now it was time to tighten everything for my seal. I took the compression fitting back apart and threaded the FIP part onto the shank inside the tun, using a stainless steel washer between the connector and the o-ring. The I turned both the coupling on the outside and the fitting on the inside with wrenches to compress everything together and mashed the o-ring.
A little more teflon tape on the male part of the compression coupling, and we're good to go. ![]() And then I threaded on the crimped copper tube to complete the inside work. ![]() The shank had an ID the same size as the OD of my copper tube, so I cut another small piece off and hammered it through the shank/coupling from the outside to make a tighter input port for the probe. ![]() |
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#5 |
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I use secondaries. :p
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And that's it.
![]() I tested it all out with hot water, and there are no leaks anywhere that I can see. The probe in the well reads +/- 0.1*F compared to the same probe placed directly into the water. I can live with +/- 0.1*F. ![]() |
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#6 |
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mmmm beer
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Nice work, mom!
__________________
hey... we're drinkin' here! |
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#7 |
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I use secondaries. :p
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Thanks, sonny.
It only took about an hour total for this (about the same amount of time it took to re-size the images and do the write-up). I'm adding one to my keggle tomorrow night. ![]() |
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#8 | |
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I use secondaries. :p
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Quote:
Poop! |
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#9 |
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I use secondaries. :p
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I didn't have the compression screwed onto the shanl tight enough.
Water was able to get into the well, but no water was leaking past the o-ring into the insulation inthe cooler's wall. Seems solid now! |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Alternate Universe
Posts: 561
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You might consider soldering the end closed just to be safe.
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