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Old 02-21-2012, 06:27 AM   #161
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Default My diy chiller

My wort chiller





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Old 07-04-2012, 06:36 PM   #162
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Sorry to resurrect this old thread but thanks to everyone for posting these ideas! I'm getting ready to do my first homebrew using some hand-me-down stuff (though including a nice keggle) from my brother in law. There wasn't an IC along with the gear so I started looking around and stumbled on to the photos here. My local hardware store only had 60' of 3/8" OD soft copper coil so I picked that up. We're brewing Sunday and it's been in the high 90's here in Grand Rapids. Since I had extra tubing, I figured I'd make a pre-chiller as well. The prechiller is 15' of tubing coiled around a paint can and will go in a cooler with ice, water and rock salt about 15 minutes before flame out to start getting cold.


The RCIC is the remaining 45' of tubing and fits the keggle nicely.



All in all the build went well. There are a few minor kinks but the system flows nicely and holds pressure. Has anyone used the prechiller with ice, water and salt? Since this will bring the prechiller down below 32 F I don't want to run the risk of the water freezing in there. Thanks!

I'll get times and temperatures on Sunday and will report back.



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Old 07-09-2012, 01:03 AM   #163
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The RCIC worked great! I had 5 gallons at a rolling boil. After flameout I started the water, tipped the keg up on a bit of the angle and started to swirl the wort. Cooling times were as follows:

3 minutes - 110 F
5 minutes - 82 F
10 minutes - 69 F

Seems like a working design to me! For next time I'm going to replace the outflow hose with a high temp line. I'll also put in some sort of quick connects as the whole device is a bit unwieldy to clean and store and it would be great to be about to break it down a bit. Thanks again to everyone who suggested this design and posted pictures!

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Old 07-22-2012, 05:41 PM   #164
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Thanks to the OP, this design is great.

I put mine together this weekend, and I'm happy with how it turned out. I used 50' or 3/8" copper, and kept the connections simple with silicone tubing and hose clamps.

I've never built the traditional style IC so I can't compare the difficulty to this, but this was really not that hard to do. I don't know why anyone wouldn't build their IC using this method.


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Old 08-29-2012, 06:59 PM   #165
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Again thank you to RedIrocZ-28! Picked up 20' of 3/8" OD copper coil from the Depot. Used my CO2 tank as a coil/guide and it turned out great. I do have to admit that I was pretty nervous at first... Go ahead and give a whirl if you want to change your IC.



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Old 09-21-2012, 04:50 PM   #166
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Here's my build, I did the 22' 3/8od copper like the op's. I got a bit of a score though, the guy at the hardware store didn't want to measure out the copper so he gave me what he thought was close enough I ended up with an extra 13' of copper and made a pre-chiller with it w00t .

The begining used tape to mark center and end that I cut.

Here is how I rolled it over the paint can.

This is the 2 pieces coiled up pre-interwoven.

Just pull apart and mush together.

Sizing it for my pot.


I got a standard fitting for my faucet that replaces the aerator with a garden hose adapter. Than picked up a female garden hose piece with a barbed end that I had to lube up with soap to get on the 3/8id hose. 6 small ss,and 1 medium clamp later here is the finished product.

I spent about $80 on everything including faucet adapter (go east coast of canada where everything is expensive). A basic 25ft Brewers best IC sells for $89.99 + 15% tax around here. So I saved a little over $20 made a more efficient IC and got a free Pre-Chiller.
Thank you op and everyone else in this thread couldn't have done it without your help, can't wait to give this a go.

Edit: Boiled up a little over 4 gal of water cooled it down to pitching temps in 10 min.

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Old 10-21-2012, 04:09 PM   #167
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Just finished mine, worked brilliantly. I've been playing with the spacing after my first test so that the bottom is quite spaced out and the top coils are closer together.

This seems to give more surface area at the top of the kettle, and when I tested it again (very unscientifically) it reduced chill time by 3-4 minutes. Not bad for 5 mins extra work.

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Old 10-21-2012, 06:25 PM   #168
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I'm done arguing against the "rib cage" designs all that but guys, please stop uncoiling the copper only to recoil it. The uncoiling process starts hardening the copper already and just makes it harder to coil. Drop the larger coil over your mandrel (the round thing you use to form the new coil) and simply tight the coil.

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Old 10-21-2012, 06:33 PM   #169
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You have to uncoil to take measurements in some cases.

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Old 11-01-2012, 12:58 PM   #170
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Replying to keep track of so I can build one this winter.



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