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Old 12-27-2012, 02:36 AM   #21
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I took what I could make out from the photos and worked up a SolidWorks model of what the OP has been building.

A while ago, I picked out a piece of 1-3/4" diameter steel from the scrap bin. (yes, the boss said I could have it...) I talked to my machinist and we are going to work out a deal with homebrew and maybe some $ for the machining duties.

This is what I have come up with as far as design. The rollers are 1.75 diameter x 6". The adjustment knobs have an eccentric hole in them that mounts the bronze bearing and thus will allow the mill to be adjusted. I have some fine tuning left to do on the adjustment. It actually adjusts way too much right now.

Here it is in full view:



Here is a view sectioned longitudinally through the driven roller.



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Old 12-27-2012, 04:26 PM   #22
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I'm sure the bearings would hold up but the bushings are much cheaper and they also don't have to be precision fit like a bearing would. Actually, I had another idea using pillow block bearings but at a dollar and change per bushing it was a no brainer.

You're drawing looks good to me. As far as adjustment goes, I'd rather have too much than not enough. Mine opens up just enough. I haven't remeasured it or recalculated where I went wrong yet, and may not if the crush is good, but I would have like more adjustment in mine.



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Old 12-27-2012, 04:27 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varmintman View Post

Are you going to build your hopper yourself. That is the one thing I will not be able to do I think since I do not have a brake nor the knowledge on how to use one. Lucky me though I have a brother in law who makes duct work and has one.
My hopper is just a metal halide light reflector. It's huge and I'll never need it's full capacity but it was just laying around the shop without a light fixture in it so it found it's way into my truck.
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Old 12-27-2012, 04:32 PM   #24
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I made a few small adjustments.
- Recessed the flange on the bearings to leave only a 0.020" gap between the side plates and the rollers.
- Adjusted the eccentrics so I get a 0.010" min gap and a 0.190" max gap.

This is still a heck of a lot of adjustment, but if i ever wanted to crack any other non-oily grain it would accommodate it.

Top view min adjustment of 0.010"


Top view max adjustment of 0.190"

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Old 12-27-2012, 04:35 PM   #25
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Thanks for the answers. I pretty much came to the same conclusion about the bearings vs. bushings. I did however go with food grade oiled busing/bearings. They were like $1.90 each... not bad. I have the bearings and the aluminum side plates on order. I'm excited to get this project going.

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Old 12-28-2012, 01:45 PM   #26
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What about using a PTFE sleeve as a 'bearing'?

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Old 12-28-2012, 03:25 PM   #27
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wow this is getting good. Since I have access to a mill and a lath and a knurling tool. I think I will make one as well. How are you guys locking your eccentric in place?

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Old 12-28-2012, 04:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tservice View Post
wow this is getting good. Since I have access to a mill and a lath and a knurling tool. I think I will make one as well. How are you guys locking your eccentric in place?
Once I get the prints done, I can email you the PDF files... or just post them up here if you would like...

I am locking the eccentrics in with that groove cut into the boss passing through the side plate. There will be a 1/4-20 bolt that threads down into the groove and locks the adjustment in as well as locking the lateral movement of the eccentric.
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:09 PM   #29
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I would love to have the prints. thanks so much!! email or here, does not matter to me.

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Old 12-28-2012, 04:35 PM   #30
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I thinking about using aluminum round stock instead of steel. You think it would hold up long term?



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