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Old 12-20-2012, 10:44 PM   #11
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Quick question... How are you locking your adjustment knob? I see what you did. Looks like you took some stock and turned it down and bored an off center hole to carry a bushing. I just don't see any lock for the adjustment.
I cut the bar stock down today. Didn't get pictures but I'll take some tomorrow. Anyway, on the adjusting side I'm going to drill and tap the end for a 1/4" 20tpi bolt and use the bolts to lock the adjusting knob down. I put some grooves in the adjusting knob for the set screws. Will take pictures of that tomorrow to and put it up here.

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Old 12-22-2012, 01:07 AM   #12
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Picture tapping the set screw holes. I finished construction today but didn't get a pic. Will post one up once I get a hopper built. I must have made a bad measurement or done some bad math...my gap only opens up to .040". My adjusters are offset .030" so I was hoping to get an adjustment from .025-.055 but oh well. .040 should be fine and if it isn't I'll adjust.


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Old 12-22-2012, 12:33 PM   #13
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Nice. Will you be able to heat treat the rollers? EDIT: I guess 1018 usually doesn't benefit from hardening....not really needed since the rollers will only crush grain.

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Old 12-22-2012, 12:58 PM   #14
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I have some stainless 1.750 stock that I am thinking about building a mill out of but I do not have a knurling tool and honestly the thought of cutting all that by hand just turns me off kinda.

That and I think a instead of having a drive roller and a passive roller I would want to gear the two together. Not sure how good that would work though with .030 adjustment. Seems like you would end up with no backlash at one end of the spectrum and some really sloppy gears at the other end.

Bugger I need to think it through some more I guess

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Old 12-22-2012, 07:17 PM   #15
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Here's the semi finished product. Still need to cut out and mount a piece of plywood that will serve as the bottom/sit on top of a bucket. The piece it's mounted to right now will serve as the top...still need to get it to final dimension and attach the hopper to it (a metal halide reflector that was laying around the shop w/out a fixture in it so I figured it needed a good home.)

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Old 12-22-2012, 07:24 PM   #16
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I have some stainless 1.750 stock that I am thinking about building a mill out of but I do not have a knurling tool and honestly the thought of cutting all that by hand just turns me off kinda.

That and I think a instead of having a drive roller and a passive roller I would want to gear the two together. Not sure how good that would work though with .030 adjustment. Seems like you would end up with no backlash at one end of the spectrum and some really sloppy gears at the other end.

Bugger I need to think it through some more I guess
Knurling tools can be had on ebay for 20 or 30 bucks. Do you have a lathe or access to one? That's the hard part. I'm lucky enough to work in an industry that has all kinds of neat tools.

Regarding the gears...only way I can think of how to do that without affecting the gap on the gears would be to build a three roller mill...gear the drive roller and the fixed roller. Then run a belt/pulley system from the gear driven roller to the adjustable roller. Does that make sense?
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:31 PM   #17
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The only money I have into this project is in the bushings and they were only a touch over a buck a piece. Unless you really enjoy building things, and I get that, I wouldn't bother building one when you can get one for around a hundred dollars. Granted, I'm a hack machinist if I'm even that good, but I've got 8 hours so into this thing so far. The price these things are going for really isn't a bad deal.

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Old 12-24-2012, 12:04 PM   #18
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I was looking at your finished product and had a brain storm with the knurled wheel you have on the passive wheel. I am thinking two pulleys on the other side and a belt with a spring tensioner. Hehe now I am getting the fever and my wife will not see me for awhile

Are you going to build your hopper yourself. That is the one thing I will not be able to do I think since I do not have a brake nor the knowledge on how to use one. Lucky me though I have a brother in law who makes duct work and has one.

You sir are not a hack but I am truly a hack. I have both a mill and a lathe and can turn out some fair parts but I think I would have well over 8 hours into the mill when I am done. And while it would be faster and easier to buy one I enjoy a little shop time myself

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Old 12-24-2012, 02:31 PM   #19
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You sir are not a hack but I am truly a hack. I have both a mill and a lathe and can turn out some fair parts but I think I would have well over 8 hours into the mill when I am done. And while it would be faster and easier to buy one I enjoy a little shop time myself
I think this paragraph can sum up this entire diy sub forum.
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Old 12-26-2012, 08:49 PM   #20
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Would you suggest using solid bronze bushings like you did or... if I can get sealed ball bearings would they be tough enough to stand up to the abuse a mill would give it?

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