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Old 01-19-2014, 02:42 PM   #481
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I am wiring up now. The driver board connections don't seem to accept the 14ga wiring. What is acceptable ga? I have some 20-22ga speaker wire. Seems 18ga may even be too big.

What's this board do? Amplify the output signal to the ball valves??


Thanks.

TD

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Old 01-20-2014, 03:57 AM   #482
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FYI-

that Frigidaire unit Packet used is getting scarce....

TD

EDIT

Also, Packet is right, soldering wire onto the XLR connectors is a PITA. I got the panel mount parts soldered up. I can't imagine trying to do it with a pencil style soldering iron. I used an ancient 340Watt Weller Soldering Gun!

In the Plastic conical site, for the XLR connectors on the Ball Valve outputs. These go through the Driver board. The driver board is grounded to chassis. There is no indication of the XLR connectors getting the ground hooked to anything. Is that right? The other set of XLR connectors for the temp probes get grounded back to the BCS (pin 2).
Does pin 3 ground internally into the connector itself (the metal housing part) or is it isolated as well ? just curious without getting out the ohm meter...

I think my wiring is all done for now until I can get the enclosure back and start mounting the guts inside.

TD

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Old 01-22-2014, 03:44 AM   #483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickyDick View Post
I am wiring up now. The driver board connections don't seem to accept the 14ga wiring. What is acceptable ga? I have some 20-22ga speaker wire. Seems 18ga may even be too big.

What's this board do? Amplify the output signal to the ball valves??


Thanks.

TD
20-22 gauge is what I used.

The reason for the board is that the BCS can't really drive much in the way of power, even when it comes to relays. The BCS is supposed to put out 5V, but when you hook everything up, it usually puts out ~3.3V. The ball valves usually require 9-12V (depending on the model you get). So, the board just steps up the voltage from whatever the BCS puts out to the 12V that the ball valves need.

My only word of caution is to leave at least one empty terminal between connections on that board. I had a lot of issues with crosstalk between the channels until I moved them around a bit.
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Old 01-22-2014, 03:57 AM   #484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickyDick View Post
FYI-

that Frigidaire unit Packet used is getting scarce....

TD

EDIT

Also, Packet is right, soldering wire onto the XLR connectors is a PITA. I got the panel mount parts soldered up. I can't imagine trying to do it with a pencil style soldering iron. I used an ancient 340Watt Weller Soldering Gun!

In the Plastic conical site, for the XLR connectors on the Ball Valve outputs. These go through the Driver board. The driver board is grounded to chassis. There is no indication of the XLR connectors getting the ground hooked to anything. Is that right? The other set of XLR connectors for the temp probes get grounded back to the BCS (pin 2).
Does pin 3 ground internally into the connector itself (the metal housing part) or is it isolated as well ? just curious without getting out the ohm meter...

I think my wiring is all done for now until I can get the enclosure back and start mounting the guts inside.

TD
Ground the driver board to the ground on your BCS. Otherwise you may have a floating ground. If I didn't note that on the wiring diagrams, I'll have to change it.

The temp probes just use a resistor and it doesn't matter which side is positive or ground since it works both ways.

The ball valves just connect to the negative bus to complete the circuit. If you look at the wiring on the ball valve, it's only two wires.

As for the A/C unit, they'll probably have more this summer. You really just need the cheapest analog unit you can find, and then follow the wiring diagram on the inside to hard wire it to be on high A/C every time the unit is powered on.
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Old 01-22-2014, 03:32 PM   #485
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For the chassis ground, use one of the ground connections on the chassis (they're threaded studs). Just crimp a ring connector on the end of a wire and put it over the stud. Use a nut to tighten it down when you're done. Be sure only to run the 110v ground through those though. The 5v ground goes through the BCS. The 12v ground goes through the 12v power supply.
Packet,

So on the "blog" site, your pictogram of the driver board wiring has the driver board ground connected to chassis ground.

I understand a little bit about ground loops and the importance of not having more than one ground point. I know it can cause noise in car audio circuits. Other than that, I know nothing about it beside it being poor practice for electronics wiring. For lighting, or regular electrical It might be OK. With respect to this project however, and in light of your previous post about the driver board being grounded through the BCS....

For the chassis ground, I will ground the internal outlets, the external outlets, the DC PSU, and that's it.

For the BCS "ground". Well, the unit itself does not appear to be grounded to the chassis at all. Its power is from its own wall-brick PSU plugged into an internal 120vac outlet. It has three terminals labelled "GND". Running from left to right across the back, the first GND is connected to the SSRs. The second GND is not connected to anything. the last GND is connected to the temp probe XLR pins.

The third pins on all XLR connectors are not grounded to or connected to anything.

The Driver board Ground is connected to the chassis ground right now, per your pictogram at plasticconical. In your last post, you say its to be connected to the BCS GND. Do you know which of the three it gets connected to?

I'm going to have to track down the manual on the BCS at some point. I see also it has +5VDC terminal. I am wondering if one of the GND connections is really the -12VDC for this voltage supply(?)


ASIDE for any using 7 segment displays (AKA PID Display Module)
I am also planning to connect 7-seg LED displays for the three tanks. There is a temp gauge on the glycol reservoir so a digital display is of no benefit. For any interested, there is a thread here somewhere that details easily how the connections to the BCS are made.
The thread discusses a ground running to the BCS, but again, there is no mention of which GND terminal used, and the connections in the single picture show the ground running below the BCS perhaps to a chassis ground along with another wire from behind the panel plate. Also, the terminal block for the ground wire as pictured in the thread on the PID Display is not present on my PID D.M.'s. Fun times... Looks like I'll be writing an email to OSCSYS.COM

wish I knew how to multi quote from multiple threads and posts...

TD
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Old 01-22-2014, 04:16 PM   #486
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Packet,

So on the "blog" site, your pictogram of the driver board wiring has the driver board ground connected to chassis ground.

I understand a little bit about ground loops and the importance of not having more than one ground point. I know it can cause noise in car audio circuits. Other than that, I know nothing about it beside it being poor practice for electronics wiring. For lighting, or regular electrical It might be OK. With respect to this project however, and in light of your previous post about the driver board being grounded through the BCS....

For the chassis ground, I will ground the internal outlets, the external outlets, the DC PSU, and that's it.

For the BCS "ground". Well, the unit itself does not appear to be grounded to the chassis at all. Its power is from its own wall-brick PSU plugged into an internal 120vac outlet. It has three terminals labelled "GND". Running from left to right across the back, the first GND is connected to the SSRs. The second GND is not connected to anything. the last GND is connected to the temp probe XLR pins.

The third pins on all XLR connectors are not grounded to or connected to anything.

The Driver board Ground is connected to the chassis ground right now, per your pictogram at plasticconical. In your last post, you say its to be connected to the BCS GND. Do you know which of the three it gets connected to?

I'm going to have to track down the manual on the BCS at some point. I see also it has +5VDC terminal. I am wondering if one of the GND connections is really the -12VDC for this voltage supply(?)


ASIDE for any using 7 segment displays (AKA PID Display Module)
I am also planning to connect 7-seg LED displays for the three tanks. There is a temp gauge on the glycol reservoir so a digital display is of no benefit. For any interested, there is a thread here somewhere that details easily how the connections to the BCS are made.
The thread discusses a ground running to the BCS, but again, there is no mention of which GND terminal used, and the connections in the single picture show the ground running below the BCS perhaps to a chassis ground along with another wire from behind the panel plate. Also, the terminal block for the ground wire as pictured in the thread on the PID Display is not present on my PID D.M.'s. Fun times... Looks like I'll be writing an email to OSCSYS.COM

wish I knew how to multi quote from multiple threads and posts...

TD
The BCS uses negative as a ground. It's not a true ground, but the driver board appears to be rather sensitive. So, it's easier to use the BCS as ground.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:25 PM   #487
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I was able to determine over on the ECC forum that the BCS GND terminals are all common and they have three because of so many connections to GNS being required. So it really doesn't matter which you use. The PSU you linked to in your blog/plasticconical site has an adjustment knob, so I'm wondering if it could be tweaked so that the -VDC matches the BCS, though I sort of wonder if this really matters. I saw a couple folks running the BCS, and other DC components off the same PSU with step down components, probably a resistor array, for each component. This may be an option if I run into problems, but I doubt that will be necessary.
It was recommended also that I ground all DC and AC (Ground, not neutral) to common ground.

It also seems that I'm probably not going to be able to hardwire to my network because there is no way to change the IP address of the BCS that I am aware of. A WiFi adapter would do this however it seems. We'll see, I haven't heard back on that yet. I did find out there is a iPhone app called brew buddy that will let you access your BCS from your phone, though probably you can already do this via the safari browser if you're on the same WiFi netowrk. May be worthwhile to check it out though.

Anyway, I think I get my stand and painted (hopefully) enclosure back very very soon. Maybe this weekend. Finding time to assemble the conical will take a while. Which reminds me, the I missed the sale at Agrimart on the two additional conicals I want! Still needed is a cooler and the neoprene wrap. AC unit ordered and will be here before end of week.

TD

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Old 01-22-2014, 07:30 PM   #488
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I was able to determine over on the ECC forum that the BCS GND terminals are all common and they have three because of so many connections to GNS being required. So it really doesn't matter which you use. The PSU you linked to in your blog/plasticconical site has an adjustment knob, so I'm wondering if it could be tweaked so that the -VDC matches the BCS, though I sort of wonder if this really matters. I saw a couple folks running the BCS, and other DC components off the same PSU with step down components, probably a resistor array, for each component. This may be an option if I run into problems, but I doubt that will be necessary.
It was recommended also that I ground all DC and AC (Ground, not neutral) to common ground.
The 12V power supply needs to stay at 12V as it runs the ball valves, which need 9-12V. It doesn't supply any power to the BCS.

Quote:
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It also seems that I'm probably not going to be able to hardwire to my network because there is no way to change the IP address of the BCS that I am aware of. A WiFi adapter would do this however it seems. We'll see, I haven't heard back on that yet. I did find out there is a iPhone app called brew buddy that will let you access your BCS from your phone, though probably you can already do this via the safari browser if you're on the same WiFi netowrk. May be worthwhile to check it out though.
You can set the BCS to either use DHCP and pull an IP from your router, or to set a static IP. I'd probably set a static IP as you then know what IP to use for the BCS. All you need to set it up is a crossover cable attached to your laptop/desktop. Set the IP and hook it up to your network. Then you're good to go.
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Old 01-24-2014, 02:25 PM   #489
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Good to know on the IP stuff

Visiting the welder today. Here is a sneak peek. imageuploadedbyhome-brew1390577123.140591.jpg
TD

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Old 01-24-2014, 06:47 PM   #490
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Cart and control panel enclosure will be home on Monday for me to start putting it all together. The control panel enclosure will stick out a bit off to one side, mounted below the deck. In hindsight, I should've had a post standing straight up in the back middle and mounted to that. It should be just fine where I'm gonna put it. I didn't want to put it at the back, because would be difficult to get to in case I needed, and might cause issues with placement of the glycol chiller / cooler. That reminds me... I need to buy a cooler still (And the neoprene). Haven't figured out how to mount the PEX tubing to the metal yet. I will probably use zip ties and the square sticky things to rough it in, then I may use expoy cement or else rivets (yuck) to connect the plastic mounts that Packet used ( though I worry trying to rivet them they might break ) I may end up mounting to the rear side of the back-splash. Haven't figured that part out. I might involve some cutting/drilling. No word yet on what this cart is going to cost me aside from the casters and caster hardware. The diamond plate really looks nice in person.

TD

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