Kegconnection Complete Starter Kit and More Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > DIY Exhaust Hood Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-17-2011, 03:13 AM   #1
ToastedPenguin
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
ToastedPenguin's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Oswego, IL
Posts: 280
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default DIY Exhaust Hood Help

In the planning stages of my basement brew room. I will be using a 3 keggle HERMS and will be going all electric so the exhaust hood will be mainly for moisture removal. Since most above range/kitchen exhaust hoods aren't powerful enough and commercial versions cost some serious $$$ I am trying to find a way to build one myself.

So far I know I can use standard steel duct work with a vortex fan to expel any moisture/fumes coming from the boil but I am trying to come up with an actual hood design that I can attach the duct system to. I have seen some wood hoods that use inserts but the inserts I have found so far are pretty much the equivalent to off the shelf range hoods or commercial (and expensive) range hoods just inserted into a nice wood housing.

I was thinking I could build a wooden "box" that is the length of my brew setup that is mounted above it to which the duct is attached to but it needs to be easy to clean. I thought of installing stainless steel or equivalent panels inside the box with sealed seams to protect the wood and create this easy to clean surface .

Has anyone attempted to build something like this? Any suggestions or comments are welcomed as I am trying to find the best solution at the best price.

Thanks,
David

__________________

________________________________________
Fermenting:
You Want MO Pale Ale
Secondary - Cyser & New England Hard Cider
Bottled: Nada
Kegged & OnTap: Bad Santa Stout, Jeep Trail Brown Ale, Red Skies at Night American Red, Panty Dropper Hard Cider


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammy71 View Post
I'd go with the 2". You can always stir the wort with a sanitized spoon if your worried about hot/cold spots. You will be hitting the 6+" with everything...ask Ron Jeremy!
ToastedPenguin is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2011, 02:30 PM   #2
TomRep
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Fleetwood, PA
Posts: 998
Liked 10 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Haven't done it, but I have been thinking abhout it just like you. A wood structure would give you the support you need and you'd only need this SS sheeting to line the inside. As long as everything is sealed well and you use the proper materials (ie. stainless fasteners, etc.), I can't see why it wouldn't work.
Tom

__________________
TomRep is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2011, 02:37 PM   #3
ToastedPenguin
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
ToastedPenguin's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Oswego, IL
Posts: 280
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

That is what I was thinking as well. Build the "box" any size I want and then I can plaster whatever I want on the outside to cover up the wood and/or make it look better and stick with all SS materials on the inside.

Anyone happen to know where you can get SS sheets for such a project?

__________________

________________________________________
Fermenting:
You Want MO Pale Ale
Secondary - Cyser & New England Hard Cider
Bottled: Nada
Kegged & OnTap: Bad Santa Stout, Jeep Trail Brown Ale, Red Skies at Night American Red, Panty Dropper Hard Cider


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammy71 View Post
I'd go with the 2". You can always stir the wort with a sanitized spoon if your worried about hot/cold spots. You will be hitting the 6+" with everything...ask Ron Jeremy!
ToastedPenguin is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2011, 02:48 PM   #4
TomRep
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Fleetwood, PA
Posts: 998
Liked 10 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Do to the size, shipping would be a pain. I would personally go to any metal fabrication shops. I'm sure they would be able to source it, of not in stock, and get it for you. Also, those screws they use for metal buildings (the ones with the rubber gasket to seal the hole) come in stainless and would be ideal for attaching the stainless.
Tom

__________________
TomRep is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2011, 02:57 PM   #5
ToastedPenguin
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
ToastedPenguin's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Oswego, IL
Posts: 280
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

True it might be cheaper to work with a metal shop in my area and not deal with shipping costs. I'm in the Chicago are so I should be able to find quite a few. Besides I might need to have someone curl the edges at the bottom at 90 degrees to create a fluid channel so I can prevent dripping from the hood.

__________________

________________________________________
Fermenting:
You Want MO Pale Ale
Secondary - Cyser & New England Hard Cider
Bottled: Nada
Kegged & OnTap: Bad Santa Stout, Jeep Trail Brown Ale, Red Skies at Night American Red, Panty Dropper Hard Cider


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammy71 View Post
I'd go with the 2". You can always stir the wort with a sanitized spoon if your worried about hot/cold spots. You will be hitting the 6+" with everything...ask Ron Jeremy!
ToastedPenguin is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2011, 03:15 PM   #6
mmurray
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Internet
Posts: 328
Liked 9 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

http://www.quickshipmetals.com/304-s...sheet-024.html

Buy Sheet Metal w/ Free Shipping
__________________

“God bless Homebrewing Beer. There are many things a man can do with his time. And this, is better than those things.”

Gulf Coast Brewers League

mmurray is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2011, 03:16 PM   #7
rcrabb22
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
rcrabb22's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 733
Liked 21 Times on 15 Posts
Likes Given: 17

Default

When planning your exhaust systems make sure to take air replacement into account. If air is removed from a space it has to be replaced from somewhere else. If the air removed is significant it may be replaced by reversing the draft of the flues of your furnace/hot water heater/fireplace. This is more of an issue in the winter when the house is closed up. All restaurants running cooking exhaust fans have a fresh forced air replacement system running as well.

I have a 30" whole house fan and I have to make sure there are enough windows open to avoid the reverse draft issue during the warmer months.

Check out Kal's electric build. He has a section on ventilation

__________________
rcrabb22 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2011, 03:37 PM   #8
Bobby_M
Vendor and Brewer
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
 
Bobby_M's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 21,830
Liked 905 Times on 602 Posts
Likes Given: 26

Default

I think a hood for sporadic use could easily be done with galvanized sheet metal rather than incurring the expense for stainless. First, you won't need to scrub accumulated grease off of it regularly and it will only get wet during brew sessions.
If you've got a long run to the outside, you might want to put a condensate drain in the line somewhere especially if you're forced to have a low spot.

Intake air would best be served directly under the brewstand so that it doesn't make the room too cold. If you use round duct to get the air there from outside, it would be a good idea to put an internal manual (or electric if you want to be fancy) damper in there to shut between brew days.

__________________
BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!

New Stuff?
Bobby_M is online now
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2011, 03:37 PM   #9
ToastedPenguin
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
ToastedPenguin's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Oswego, IL
Posts: 280
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrabb22 View Post
When planning your exhaust systems make sure to take air replacement into account. If air is removed from a space it has to be replace from somewhere else. If the air removed is significant it may be replaced by reversing the draft of the flues of your furnace/hot water heater/fireplace. This is more of an issue in the winter when the house is closed up. All restaurants running cooking exhaust fans have a fresh forced air replacement system running as well.

I have a 30" whole house fan and I have to make sure there are enough windows open to avoid the reverse draft issue during the warmer months.
Thanks for reminding me of this requirement.

My brew room will be a sealed self contained environment so I should be able to accomplish replacing the air for this particular room with a fresh air return vent/baffle. Do I need to install a fan to force fresh air back into the room or will I be able to get away with a passive fresh air return system?
__________________

________________________________________
Fermenting:
You Want MO Pale Ale
Secondary - Cyser & New England Hard Cider
Bottled: Nada
Kegged & OnTap: Bad Santa Stout, Jeep Trail Brown Ale, Red Skies at Night American Red, Panty Dropper Hard Cider


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammy71 View Post
I'd go with the 2". You can always stir the wort with a sanitized spoon if your worried about hot/cold spots. You will be hitting the 6+" with everything...ask Ron Jeremy!
ToastedPenguin is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2011, 03:55 PM   #10
ToastedPenguin
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
ToastedPenguin's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Oswego, IL
Posts: 280
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
I think a hood for sporadic use could easily be done with galvanized sheet metal rather than incurring the expense for stainless. First, you won't need to scrub accumulated grease off of it regularly and it will only get wet during brew sessions.
If you've got a long run to the outside, you might want to put a condensate drain in the line somewhere especially if you're forced to have a low spot.

Intake air would best be served directly under the brewstand so that it doesn't make the room too cold. If you use round duct to get the air there from outside, it would be a good idea to put an internal manual (or electric if you want to be fancy) damper in there to shut between brew days.
I like that way of thinking....gotta cut costs where I can before the wife closes down my project.

When I look at where the brew stand will be in relationship to the size of the room and where the ducts need to be run to the outside wall (in the pictures attached the pic with the small white bucket in it is the side of the room with the outside wall), the exhaust to the outside will actually be pretty short, maybe 4-5 feet max. The room is ~12 feet across and the stand will be against the long wall in the picture.

Since the brew room is below grade in my basement would I still need to put the air intake vent below the brew stand?
beginning_of_brew_room_2_scaled.jpg   beginning_of_brew_room_1_scaled.jpg  
__________________

________________________________________
Fermenting:
You Want MO Pale Ale
Secondary - Cyser & New England Hard Cider
Bottled: Nada
Kegged & OnTap: Bad Santa Stout, Jeep Trail Brown Ale, Red Skies at Night American Red, Panty Dropper Hard Cider


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammy71 View Post
I'd go with the 2". You can always stir the wort with a sanitized spoon if your worried about hot/cold spots. You will be hitting the 6+" with everything...ask Ron Jeremy!
ToastedPenguin is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Exhaust Fan vs DeHumidifier beerocd DIY Projects 3 08-29-2011 11:41 AM
Exhaust fan install airbalancer DIY Projects 16 11-11-2010 10:25 PM
Exhaust fan help needed LandoCalrissian DIY Projects 2 11-19-2009 02:00 PM
Help With Exhaust rabeb25 DIY Projects 26 02-19-2009 02:57 AM
Exhaust Hood Advice needed for Brewhaus EdWort DIY Projects 9 02-18-2009 07:42 AM