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Old 11-11-2011, 09:32 PM   #11
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is there a greenlee punch for curved surfaces? I know they make different shapes, but I never saw one for anything but a flat surface. I've seen plumbers use a hole saw to cut into pipe, so I don't see how this would be different than drilling into a tower.
the greenlees are actually easier to use on curves surfaces. The cutting edge isn't straight on, it is two ovular sort of points. So when you put your pilot hole in, you have to hold the cutting edge stable until you bite into the stock.
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:41 AM   #12
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Ok, if you've done it, then you'd know better than me. I was worried about the cup. I'd hate to have that cup bend the curve of the tower.

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Old 11-12-2011, 02:50 AM   #13
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Why not just use a metal holesaw like you would on a Keggle? Alot cheaper than a greenlee.

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Old 11-12-2011, 01:20 PM   #14
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Easy to do, I've added 2 to my original single faucet tower. I marked with a Sharpie, then Uni-bitted to something like 3/4", plus or minus.

Something to keep in mind: while there's tons of extra room for the shanks and lines, there's not so much room when it comes to attaching everything. Think about how you're going to get at all these shanks before final layout. I wish I'd have placed a little different. Kyle

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Old 11-12-2011, 10:55 PM   #15
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I think I'm going to insert my unibit into hole #1, mark the size then create hole #2.

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Old 11-12-2011, 10:56 PM   #16
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Welp, that sounded mighty dirty.

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Old 11-12-2011, 11:01 PM   #17
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Haha! Indeed. But if it ain't dirty, you aren't doing it right

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Old 11-12-2011, 11:10 PM   #18
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Why not just use a metal holesaw like you would on a Keggle? Alot cheaper than a greenlee.
I might do that if I can't locate a greenlee - but the greenlees make unreal clean perfect holes
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