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Old 11-11-2011, 01:21 PM   #1
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Default DIY - Drilling/Adding another tower faucet

Here is the scoop:

I am trying to find out if anyone has ever cut another hole in their stainless tower for adding another faucet. Currently I have a KC dual tap tower and I am considering cutting a third hole in it so I can make it a three faucet tower.

I was considering going the greenlee punch method becuase the tower is fairly curved. I think drilling with a step bit may be a challenge.

1. Has anyone done this successfully?
2. Do you know the size needed for the hole? (15/16 or 1'')

This would be a great way to cut some cost out for people who would like to expand their towers from one, to two or three.


Thanks!

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Old 11-11-2011, 02:31 PM   #2
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I'm watching this. I have a 3" brass tower I want to do this to. Punch a hole then powder coat it brushed SS.

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Old 11-11-2011, 03:12 PM   #3
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It looks like you could get a 1 inch punch, drill your pilot hole and then bam. But I am just looking at radio/chassis punches and trying to decide to buy the 1'' or the 15/16''. This would be a great way to upgrade for me. Also it would save me some coin if I could do it to two dual towers!

Would make a dual tower from KC to a three:

dual tower $189.95
Shank hardware $23
Perlick 575ss $36
------------------
$248.99 vs. $311.95 if you buy the tower.

Only part that sucks is, the greenlee punch is $$

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Old 11-11-2011, 03:26 PM   #4
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I can't image it would be that hard to center punch it, pre drill it with a 1/8" standard drill bit, then bore it out with a step bit.

But I don't have any experience with a step bit so I don't know how they react to curved surfaces. I would definitly blue tape the area so the shavings don't scratch the pretty finish on the stainless.

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Old 11-11-2011, 05:01 PM   #5
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there is an add-on faucet you can slap on to an existing 3" tower.

http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/towers/tower_adapter/index.shtml

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Old 11-11-2011, 05:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenixs4r View Post

But I don't have any experience with a step bit so I don't know how they react to curved surfaces. I would definitly blue tape the area so the shavings don't scratch the pretty finish on the stainless.
The curved surface is what concerns me.


Outside - I saw those, but for the cost to ship and get one out, I could by a greenlee and potentially cut out two more taps (if I buy another dual tower). Cost wise it would save a fair amount with two holes. Even better if I can borrow a greenlee from somewhere.

Obviously if I screw it up I am in trouble, but I don't see why the greenlee wouldn't work here.

All in all if I did this successfully to two towers it would save me $126, less the cost of the greenlee (say $50)
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Old 11-11-2011, 06:04 PM   #7
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You can always drill your pilot hole, then use the step bit to try and do a couple steps. If it works keep going, if it doesn't, mark the hole needed with a sharpy and bust out the dremel.

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Old 11-11-2011, 08:43 PM   #8
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is there a greenlee punch for curved surfaces? I know they make different shapes, but I never saw one for anything but a flat surface. I've seen plumbers use a hole saw to cut into pipe, so I don't see how this would be different than drilling into a tower.

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Old 11-11-2011, 09:08 PM   #9
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my buddy and i did this to a single faucet tower and turned it into a 3 faucet tower. works fine. just get the right drill bit.

plenty of room.

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Old 11-11-2011, 09:30 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by VanHorneDog View Post
my buddy and i did this to a single faucet tower and turned it into a 3 faucet tower. works fine. just get the right drill bit.

plenty of room.
you had a stainless tower? With a step bit?

Do you remember the hole size?
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