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Old 08-24-2011, 03:15 PM   #31
Radix
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What would be the downfalls of doing this from keg to bucket, other than the increased chance of oxidation. I never have to kegs empty. I consider that bad, lol.
The only downside is oxidation as you said. You can purge the receiving keg with CO2 where you simply cant with a bucket or carboy. That said I would not be to worried about it. You are likely going to want to clean out the source keg before you move the beer back into it as the source keg will have some residual beer/particulate in it which has not been filtered.
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Old 08-24-2011, 03:21 PM   #32
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What would happen if I just used a single filter with the 1 micron filter? Would it clog too quickly? The links you posted indicate that this is how they do it. I would be more likely to do this if if I only needed 1 filter housing and 1 filter for each transfer. And because they are disposable, even if the 1 micron gets really gummed up you just toss it.

I also found a cheap housing that has 1/4 NPT ports (they also make it in 3/8 or 1/2 or 3/4 so you can eliminate bushings) and a pressure release button that goes for $15.85 with free super save shipping on Amazon.com.

With one of these and a couple of 1/4 MPT>barb fitting and you could be good to go for under 20 bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Pentek-158117-...4198977&sr=1-1

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Old 08-24-2011, 03:29 PM   #33
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They also have these 100 micron filter bags that fit the 10" housings. I'm thinking you could fill the bag with hops and use it as a Randal. the bag come in micron ranges from 50-800. I'm not sure what would work best. I will put a link to the 100 micron bag is anyone is interested.

About 10 bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Pentek-BN-410-...4199531&sr=1-2

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Old 08-24-2011, 03:46 PM   #34
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What would happen if I just used a single filter with the 1 micron filter? Would it clog too quickly? The links you posted indicate that this is how they do it. I would be more likely to do this if if I only needed 1 filter housing and 1 filter for each transfer. And because they are disposable, even if the 1 micron gets really gummed up you just toss it.

I also found a cheap housing that has 1/4 NPT ports (they also make it in 3/8 or 1/2 or 3/4 so you can eliminate bushings) and a pressure release button that goes for $15.85 with free super save shipping on Amazon.com.

With one of these and a couple of 1/4 MPT>barb fitting and you could be good to go for under 20 bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Pentek-158117-...4198977&sr=1-1
Your find of a filter housing seems very good. The body looks very similar to the one I used but the cap looks a little less beefy however I cant imagine how that would matter. When I was looking I could not find any 1/4 NPT ported housing with a release valve and that where clear, so very nice find.

All the literature I have seen suggest filter at 5 micron and then optionally at 1 micron which is called a finishing filter. I am unware of any links I posted advocating for only using 1 micron filters. Both instructions manuals I posted follow the 5 then 1 micron system. Depending on style and most importantly the amount of sediment you suck of the bottom of your carboy you might be able to get away with just a 1 micron filter, particularly if you use a hop bag and do 5 gallon batches. The concern with going directly to a 1 micron filter is that the filter clogs to easily then you increase the pressure and the filter collapses. When the filter clogs pressure obviously builds up on the filters surface. Success with just a 1 micron filter will of course depend a great deal on the quality of the filter you use. The filter source I recommend are notably thicker then other filters I have seen and thus less likely to collapse.

If you just want to do a 1 stage system I suggest using a 5 micron filter. The 5 micron does the vast majority of the work. Here is a quick summery of the micron size differences

"The 5.0 micron filter gets rid of any sediment in your beer. The 1.0 micron filter gives you a brilliantly clear beer. And the 0.5 micron filter enables you to eliminate almost all chill haze from your brilliantly clear beer."
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:00 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radix

The only downside is oxidation as you said. You can purge the receiving keg with CO2 where you simply cant with a bucket or carboy. That said I would not be to worried about it. You are likely going to want to clean out the source keg before you move the beer back into it as the source keg will have some residual beer/particulate in it which has not been filtered.
Cool, I don't think my beer has lasted longer than a month anyways.
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:02 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by PantherCity View Post
They also have these 100 micron filter bags that fit the 10" housings. I'm thinking you could fill the bag with hops and use it as a Randal. the bag come in micron ranges from 50-800. I'm not sure what would work best. I will put a link to the 100 micron bag is anyone is interested.

About 10 bucks.

http://www.amazon.com/Pentek-BN-410-...4199531&sr=1-2
I like the idea of a filtering bag for the hop Randall. I have also been thinking about a similar solution. I would use a 50 micron as that is fairly porous and I think would not clog. These filtering bags fit all standard housings 10" housings.

There are less expensive bags in the aquarium world called filter socks. The bags can be stacked inside each other so you could have a 100 micron and then a 50 inside. I think I will start another thread with whatever I work out for a Randall.
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:33 PM   #37
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I just wanted to say thanks for posting all this info. I'm a new brewer (have 5 - 5 gallon batches under my belt (extract and partial grains). I did a lot of reading on filtering vs secondaries and cold breaks and decided that the money was worth the convenience for me.

I was able to find a 1/4" to 1/4" quick connector so I didn't need the bushing adapters at the filters. I'm going to see if I can get the 1/4" tubing to fit the post adapter, but if not then I'll put the adapter at the post adapter. That would mean I only need to buy 2 bushings instead of 4 if I put them on either connector in the filter. At least by my thinking?

Thanks to all of you who posted links and provided insights. I have my filter system mostly complete. I decided to try the 5 micron and 0.5 micron. I'll see how it goes with the .5 instead of the 1 micron 'finishing' filter. I just need to get the ball post adapters and the filter cartridges (both ordered) and I'll be set.

Quick edit: My costs for everything was $62.34 including 1 round of filters (I bought the 50-pack in the link so my initial investment was quite a bit more ($66 for 50 filters, shipped from the ebay seller linked).

Thanks again!

filters.jpg   watts.jpg  
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Old 09-06-2011, 03:12 PM   #38
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I just wanted to say thanks for posting all this info. I'm a new brewer (have 5 - 5 gallon batches under my belt (extract and partial grains). I did a lot of reading on filtering vs secondaries and cold breaks and decided that the money was worth the convenience for me.

I was able to find a 1/4" to 1/4" quick connector so I didn't need the bushing adapters at the filters. I'm going to see if I can get the 1/4" tubing to fit the post adapter, but if not then I'll put the adapter at the post adapter. That would mean I only need to buy 2 bushings instead of 4 if I put them on either connector in the filter. At least by my thinking?

Thanks to all of you who posted links and provided insights. I have my filter system mostly complete. I decided to try the 5 micron and 0.5 micron. I'll see how it goes with the .5 instead of the 1 micron 'finishing' filter. I just need to get the ball post adapters and the filter cartridges (both ordered) and I'll be set.

Quick edit: My costs for everything was $62.34 including 1 round of filters (I bought the 50-pack in the link so my initial investment was quite a bit more ($66 for 50 filters, shipped from the ebay seller linked).

Thanks again!
Very nice setup. Thanks for sharing! Its great to know people are materializing there own setups.
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Old 09-07-2011, 01:29 AM   #39
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Just finished my first kegging with this system. Afterwards, the beer has a slightly oxidized flavor (sherry like), BUT, I didn't try it before, so this could have been pre-filtering. It was made in a conical, and when dumping trub (3 times) it naturally sucked in some air. It has been sitting at room air now (currently about 75 degrees) for about 2 months, so it could be oxidized before hand. That being said, I am not sure on the methods exactly people are using. Here is what I did:

I filled a keg with star san, then hooked it up to gas and ran it from one keg through the filter housings (with no filters in them yet). Once all the star san had gone through, I emptied out the housings and placed the proper filters in each one. My understanding is these are already sanitized and don't need starsan to run through them, and I didn't want to get too much star san in my finished product. At this point, I hook it up to a keg full of cloudy beer and run it through at 4 psi. I pressed the pressure relief valve on each of the housings until beer came through them. One problem I had is that two of the little plastic Watts connectors leaked, so I had to push in two hoses constantly about as hard as I could so it wouldn't leak. Is there some trick to using those? Don't you just push the tube in, or is there something I'm not aware of?

Anyway, I am not sure how the beer could get oxidized in the filter even if not flushed with CO2. THere wasn't really any bubbling that I could see (or at least very little), and the oxygen should get expelled completely while the housings fill, or am I wrong?

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Old 09-07-2011, 01:49 AM   #40
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Why are the filters only for single use ?
One filter store suggests back flushing water through the filter to clean it out.

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