Direct Fire MLT Insulation Project - Page 18

**Bobby_M** · 01-12-2012, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brewman !

That can be solved with a $40 PID controller and a $70 gas control valve. This setup then pretty much automates step mashes too.

In my situation, I have no desire to automate using gas. The long term goal is pure electric so I'm not spending any money on an interim gas system.

brewman ! · 01-12-2012, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pola0502ds

gas shouldn't run through copper.

The pilot feed line in a furnace is copper. There is no pressure on it. The end vents to air.

Quote:

If I can buy everything I need for $110 then you got me.

Not trying to "get" you, but if you can made due with a single digital thermometer, then yes, it can be done.

The PID is here.
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Display-Temperature-Controller-Great/dp/B002PIM3R8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326398424&sr=8-1

Here is one possible thermocouple.
http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-PT100-Thermocouple-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0052IGFZ4/ref=pd_sbs_indust_5

There are others as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-K-Type-Thermocouple-Insertion/dp/B005OIZTHM/ref=sr_1_6?s=miscellaneous&ie=UTF8&qid=1326398500&sr=1-6
http://www.amazon.com/Thermocouple-Sensor-Probe-Temperature-Controller/dp/B005G14R70/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_2

The gas control valve is here.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00069CR8S/ref=ox_ya_os_product
You'll need a kit to convert it from NG to propane if you are running propane.

Pilot thermocouple is here.
http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-CQ100A-1013-24-Thermocouple/dp/B000BPHNW2/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b
You'll need a few odds and ends as well, ie copper tubing for the pilot "jet", etc.

brewman ! · 01-12-2012, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby_M

In my situation, I have no desire to automate using gas. The long term goal is pure electric so I'm not spending any money on an interim gas system.

Fair enough. Each to his own.

pola0502ds · 01-12-2012, 08:04 PM

no problem man, I think thats impressive.. I can't believe it can be that cheap.

Okay, back on topic.. Sorry guys.

akthor · 01-13-2012, 02:32 AM

Step by step instructions please cuz if it's this cheap and easy then I will for sure do it! Not being sarcastic or anything I believe you I just wanna know how to do it, cuz I'm a little dumb when it comes to the automating stuff, I've read a ton of stuff on here but still don't have a clue

Quote:

Originally Posted by brewman !

Yes it is.

Which will replace the $60? analog thermometer.

Not RIMS, direct fire. You have a burner under the pot, right ? Install a gas control valve.

If the control panel is housed away from liquids a metal sheet will do. The PID controller has a relay already in it to turn the gas control valve on and off. You don't need an outlet. Everything runs on 120VAC like it already does, except the gas valve needs a 24VAC transformer, which you can get from any junked furnace or buy new for about $10.

It could go where your thermometer was OR it will take a Tee to mount it in the recirc line. A single Tee.

Use the burner already under it to direct fire it.

Which is made from a short piece of 3/16" copper tubing. And which provides a lot of safety should you have a boil over that puts out the burner while you are in the house chatting up your SWMBO.

Unless you like being a slave to your burners and brewing process ?

**Bobby_M** · 01-13-2012, 03:51 AM

In a new dedicated thread please?

res291que · 01-19-2012, 09:43 PM

Okay looking to make a mash tun from an empty keg that I already have, but it is a Coors Keg so it is kinda rounded, can I accomplish the same insulation project with this keg or do I need to get something else? Also I do not currently have a pump, could I just vorlauf on my own while heating to avoid scorching the bottom?

ghart999 · 02-16-2012, 04:05 PM

Bobby - can you answer a question on how you applied the wool to the flashing?

Now did you pre curve the flashing, adhere the wool to the flashing and then install? Or did you adhere the wool to the keggle as well and then put the flashing over it? Thanks.

**Bobby_M** · 02-16-2012, 04:32 PM

It's been a while since I did it but I THINK I used the precurved flashing to push the wool around the keg. It will crack in a few places because it is semi-rigid but once you have it wrapped well, it will curve around. I did spray some 3M super 88 adhesive on the outside of the wool just so it would stay on the flashing if I needed to remove it but honestly, I don't think I'll ever take it off the keg. I know I didn't use any adhesive between the keg and wool.

berrywise · 02-16-2012, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby_M

It's been a while since I did it but I THINK I used the precurved flashing to push the wool around the keg. It will crack in a few places because it is semi-rigid but once you have it wrapped well, it will curve around. I did spray some 3M super 88 adhesive on the outside of the wool just so it would stay on the flashing if I needed to remove it but honestly, I don't think I'll ever take it off the keg. I know I didn't use any adhesive between the keg and wool.

When I did mine I used sheet metal that was a bit thicker and harder to work with so it was necessary to prebend it. If I had glued the wool on first I think just the amount of metal bending i was doing would have it crumbling apart.

Bend metal, spray the heck out of it with Super 88 and then use tied downs to hold the metal in place. Drills holes and pop rivot buckles on.

I too have never removed mine from my keg.