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Old 03-07-2011, 11:51 PM   #91
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Would building a shell like Bobby's and using spray foam insulation be a viable solution?

Product states it can handle temp to 240 F

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Old 03-08-2011, 12:40 AM   #92
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For electric, spray foam would work, but not for direct fired vessels. Spray foam is flammable.

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Old 03-08-2011, 01:16 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by klyph View Post
For electric, spray foam would work, but not for direct fired vessels. Spray foam is flammable.
That's what I figured. I also wasn't sure if using the flashing would act as a good shield from the burners.
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Old 03-08-2011, 04:44 AM   #94
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Did anyone try the aluminum flashing? Was it thick enough in single ply or was 2 required?
Anyone have any thoughts on what guages would be acceptable for any metal material? I see bobby used 16 guage (1.5mm) and that the aluminum flashing is around (.0092mm), this is quite a range! I have never worked with the flashing, can you tear it by hand on accident or is it tougher than that?

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Old 03-08-2011, 03:43 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maltose View Post
I could probably start my own thread, but Bobby maybe you can answer this. I've got an E-HERMS and want to insulate my mash tun. My three options are:

1. Your aluminum armored insulation
2. Reflectix
3. the adhesive backed foam insulation from McMaster

What would you recommend as my best option? The vessel is a keggle.
I think I'd go with the adhesive backed foam rubber. It's not shiny, but it's really simple to do and seems a lot more robust than glorified bubble wrap. If my vessel was electric, I'd never go through the trouble of what I did.
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Old 03-08-2011, 03:51 PM   #96
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Flashing does come in different gauges but most of the stuff you find would be hard to tear by hand. Maybe if you got a cut started with snips, you'd be able to keep it going by hand. Another way to describe it is that a pair of kitchen grade scissors will cut it pretty easily. The primary reason I advocated doubling up is so you can clamp it tightly without tearing the machine screws out.

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Old 03-08-2011, 04:25 PM   #97
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I know some people that have used underhood auto insulation. Double wrapped it would be 3/4" thick. Just an idea, I've never used it, but they are susing a similar product on all their vessels.

http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Insu...11_p-12011.htm

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Old 04-09-2011, 05:00 AM   #98
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That is a sweet setup! I checked the "metal by the inch" website and their prices are reasonable, but a little pricey to ship. Bobby, do you recall the dimensions of your aluminum sheet? Does 19" X 55" sound about right? I'm looking at thinner gauge so I could always fold over ends if 55" is too long.
Thanks for any help!

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Old 04-21-2011, 02:56 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
It's holding up like a beast. Honestly the most wear and tear it has seen so far is the random interested party poking at the silicone seal at the top to try to figure out what it is. My previous solution was doubled reflectix with velcro but even thought it was easy to remove didn't mean I'd remember to remove it when the flame was lit.

I have not removed the insulation or metal wrap since it was installed as I've always just cleaned in place. It doesn't appear that the silicone seal has been compromised at all and I don't think the wool has gotten wet. The silicone smelled solventy when it was first applied but it was gone within a week. I don't notice any smells at all during heating. The very bottom layer of wool is exposed to the heat but it doesn't flinch or smolder.
So I just finished my own version of this and did a test run warming up water. I used about 24 guage aluminum sheet, and the mineral wool from mcmaster, and silicone along the top and around the fittings. I was disappointed to see that I got smoking and smelly solvents shortly after firing up. I let it run for about 15-20 min hoping it would burn off but the smoking seemed to be getting worse. The outside aluminum layer was too hot to touch even when the water is only 110-120F inside. There appears to be a lot of conductive heat coming up along the outside. I have 2 thoughts as to what could be going wrong: 1) the adhesive is burning off. 2) the drain holes on the lower skirt (right next to the burner), are allowing direct fire onto the wool and adhesive. I actually only put the adhesive spray on the outside of the wool, the side that touches the aluminum.

Bobby, did you cover up those drain holes on the bottom skirt? If so what did you use? I had looked briefly at JB weld and other like compounds at that hardware store and none of them seem to be temp resistant enough. I could just slip in a piece of aluminum flashing to see if that helps, or I have a TIG welder friend who could seel them up for me. Any thoughts?

For now, I will just use it like a plastic cooler, and use my HLT heat exchanger to recirculate and maintain temps, but I was hoping to be able to direct fire.
thanks for your advice!
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:21 PM   #100
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I didn't block off the lower drains at all. What kind of burner are you using? It sounds like the flame is rocking too hard. Honestly, I'm stumped. My setup never smelled funny or smoked.

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