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Old 05-30-2012, 02:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copyright1997

I would like to do a control panel with as many din rail mounted components as possible. Anyone put there that has already put one together that has pictures and/or a parts list? I'm still trying to decide on input power (30 amp 240 is cheapest but I would like the actual control box componentry to not be limited or to have a selector switch to go between 30amp mode and a 50 or 60 amp mode). That suggests I include internal to the control box breakers, I would also like to have these din mounted. I am also still considering brewtroller or a bcs-400 type of setup. Looking for builds that I can use as a model. Thanks.
I will be offering DIN rail configurations. My terminal blocks were due in today, but DHL had other plans. Breakers are in stock as well as the rail. I'm trying to source contractors now. I'll be focusing on BCS but will have PID options too. All should work with Brewtroller as well.
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Old 05-30-2012, 05:23 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatrickwah
I will be offering DIN rail configurations. My terminal blocks were due in today, but DHL had other plans. Breakers are in stock as well as the rail. I'm trying to source contractors now. I'll be focusing on BCS but will have PID options too. All should work with Brewtroller as well.
I've been occasionally looking at your site. One thing I could suggest ( I know your are trying to ramp up) is larger enclosures. Given the stuff I want to cram in, I don't think the one listed on the site will do. Also, see the earlier posts on this thread about enclosures. I really like the idea of doing most of the work outside the panel box and then just installing the entire plane of din mounted stuff!
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Old 05-30-2012, 05:25 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatrickwah
I will be offering DIN rail configurations. My terminal blocks were due in today, but DHL had other plans. Breakers are in stock as well as the rail. I'm trying to source contractors now. I'll be focusing on BCS but will have PID options too. All should work with Brewtroller as well.
Almost forgot, I already have 3 contractors, 2 AB c30's and 1 C43, all din mountable. I could be talked into a 4th depending on the design.
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:35 AM   #14
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The boxes I have allow you to remove the mounting panel from the inside, do the work and put them back in. As for more sizes, this will take time, larger and smaller maybe by Christmas. I'm still waiting to see where all this goes. I am trying to find adequate PIDs at the moment.

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Old 03-27-2013, 06:14 PM   #15
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Hey guys, giving this a bump.

I got a kit for /\ /\ eBrewSupply.com and needed a little insight on these DIN connectors.

I get that these replace the bus bars, but I am confused on how to mount and wire these. I have a few parts that I am not sure what they are. I have provided them below and numbered them for assitance.

Questions on the extra parts:
1) An extra switch for the throw switches. Maybe used for a dual purpose switch or extra part?

2) Some type of space, what is it used for?

3) Another type of spacer, used on a single rail to block the current running between the connectors?

4) Some type of connector, not sure what its purpose is but I am assuming it has to do with the 2 hots, ground, and neutral.

5) Used to connect the connectors together? Not really sure...



Also, once I wire up and mount the connectors on the DIN rail. How do I wire the main power (hot A, hot B, neutral, or ground) to the DIN rail? How do I prevent it from traveling through the rest of the DIN rail?

Second, is my box big enough to do an internal heatsink on the DIN rail for the SSR?

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Old 03-27-2013, 07:14 PM   #16
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Dag nabbit. I JUST ORDERED FROM MCMASTER-CARR LAST NIGHT! Why didn't I see this thread a few days ago?

Anyway, I too am looking for a better way of connecting everything instead of using the terminal strips and these look like the perfect thing, since I'm already using DIN-mounted circuit breakers inside the control panel.

I'm no electrical expert, but...

1) is a "normally open" (NO) contactor for a button. I'm not sure, but most times you'd use this contactor instead of the NC (normally closed) contactor for our purposes.

2) No idea.

3) These look like end caps for the distribution blocks.

4) Some kind of ground distribution would be a good guess.

5) Yes, these look like they are used to move power from one terminal to the next one.

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Old 03-27-2013, 07:45 PM   #17
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LandoLincoln - Have any idea how I wire the main power (hot A, hot B, neutral, or ground) to the DIN rail? How do I prevent it from traveling through the rest of the DIN rail?

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Old 03-27-2013, 09:03 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris7687 View Post
LandoLincoln - Have any idea how I wire the main power (hot A, hot B, neutral, or ground) to the DIN rail? How do I prevent it from traveling through the rest of the DIN rail?
Just to be clear, the rail itself just holds the things together, no power actually runs through the rail. I'm pretty sure you knew that, but just in case...

So you'd attach one of the main wires (let's use hot A as an example) to one side of one of the terminals and then you'd use that jumper strip to connect a whole bunch of terminal blocks together, and then connect the wires that need the power to the other side of the terminal blocks.

You'd think that there would be kind of metal contacts on each side of the terminal blocks so that if you lined them all up on a DIN rail they'd all be electrically connected, and then you'd attach the end plugs on the end blocks to stop the power flowing any further than that. Are there metal contacts on each side of the blocks?

I'd connect a whole bunch together without the jumper strip and then use a multimeter to test for continuity at various points. And then if there isn't an electrical continuity, then figure out how to attach that jumper strip and then test again.
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:57 AM   #19
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Otho k the #4 is the jumper switch you are referring to. What size spade terminals can these connectors take? I tried fitting a #6, but it won't fit

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Old 03-28-2013, 09:41 PM   #20
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The original poster linked to and used the 6mm width 30 amp 22-10 wire gage blocks. If I was planning on bringing power in from my 50amp spa panel/disconnect on 6awg (6/4) wire would there be any issue other than cost with using the 10mm width 65 amp 20-6 wire blocks? http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/749/=m2v09c

Obviously I would have to get the matching end plates and jumper strips for those blocks.

And to clarify my thinking in a typical layout where do the contactors fit into the chain if you want an e stop that cuts power to the box?

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