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-   -   Danby DAR125SLDD Kegerator Build (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/danby-dar125sldd-kegerator-build-269314/)

DeNomad 09-17-2011 11:05 PM

Danby DAR125SLDD Kegerator Build
 
This is the build of my Danby DAR125SLDD 4.4 cu ft kegerator. Here are some highlights for those considering a similar build - details and photos further on:
- No freezer
- Fits two ball lock corny kegs perfectly with 5 lb CO2 tank on compressor hump
- May be used as fermentation chamber for a single carboy but only my skinny 6 gallon carboy fit.
- Used 1" copper pipe to aid in tower cooling (it fits snug in 1-1/8" holes)
- Added 1" Tee fitting to pipe and attached a computer fan housed in a small radio shack project box to one side of the tee. This fan blows cool air into the tower.
- Added 1" cap to the tee fitting with two holes 1/64" smaller diameter than that of the two beer lines I squeezed through the holes. This makes sure the air blows up and into the tower.

Parts/Vendors List:
- Danby DAR125SLDD Fridge: $140 from Costco in Canada. Link here to specs.
- Scythe Mini Kaze Ultra 40 mm x 20 mm Fan: $4.99. LINK HERE.
- I would go for a larger fan if I were to do this again, it does not circulate the air fast enough
- Radio shack project box to house fan. $5
- 12V DC Wall wart (a powersupply which you plug into the wall and outputs 12V DC power to run a computer fan). $12
- 19" x 4" Stainless Drip Tray from hopdawgs.ca. $36.99 LINK HERE.
- STC-1000 Aquarium Temperature Controller from ebay $20
- 4x4 Fence Cap Post (used as project box for temperature controller) from Home Depot $2
- Electrical cord and wall plugin $10
- 1/8" thick puck board to cover insulation on inside of fridge door: Free
- Dual Tower Ball Lock Dispensing Kit from ontariobeerkegs.com: $245.98 LINK HERE.
- Note: I got generic faucets. I regret this, get Perlicks if you are considering this.
- Kit includes:
-Dual Tap Beer tower shell Stainless Steel Chrome plated.
-Clamps (All Stainless)
-Eight feet of Gas line
-Dual Gauge Regulator
-5# empty Aluminum CO2 tank (Certified and new!)
-Two Pairs of Ball lock barbed connects, two Gas two Beer
-Two Chrome Dispense high quality chrome plated faucets
-Mounting hardware
- Inlcuded 2 Way manifold to control carbonation in each keg seperately
First here is the finished product. Looks good in my living room! I live in a condo so there is not much room for much more.

Steps:
1. Remove the plastic attached to the inside of the fridge door. There are screws under the door gasket, just peel it back with your hand and unscrew carefully.


Fridge with garbage from inside of door removed. I am using the fridge here as fermentation chamber for my carboy.


Location of screws under gasket. I drilled holes in 1/8" puck board using the original inner door covering as a template. It worked great!


Fridge with the puck board covering the insulation.

2. Route temperature probe and 12V DC power supply (aka wall wart) cord through the drain tube.
- I used a STC-1000 aquarium temperature controller housed in a 4x4 fence post cap. See the links at the bottom for the thread or search it on HBT.
- First unscrew the drip tray so you can get at the dip tube. It is just above the compressor on the backside. Any condensation runs out this hole and the heat from the compressor evaporates it so make sure to put the tray back when you are done!
- Both my STC-1000 temperature probe and power supply cord fit through here as long as the probe went in first. Your success may vary with other parts or fridges.


3. Unscrew plastic top from fridge, locate and drill hole. There are refrigerant lines in most dorm fridges on the top of the fridge. It appears in most Danby fridges that the lines are located near the door so you are generally safe putting the hole near the backside.
- Search HBT for "corn starch test" to locate lines yourself. I tested for their general location by turning the fridge on, opening the door and feeling the heat coming on the lines with my hand (that is how the corn starch test works btw).
- Make sure you have enough clearance on the backside to get your fasteners for the tower in without hitting the backplate on the inside. I barely had enough room.
- I used a 1-1/8" hole saw then covered the hole with aluminum duct tape to keep the insulation dry. Try practicing on some scrap wood if you've never used a hole saw before and make sure to use a pilot hole!
- Gently wiggle the 1" copper pipe into the hole. It will fit *really* snug.
- I put some insulation included in my tower kit over the pipe.


4. See next post!

Useful references for Danby kegerator builds - Thanks to those that posted this information:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/kege...ar440bl-98779/
http://picasaweb.google.com/11441661...GSKDYE1D6vvmsQ
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-k...-build-176635/
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-f...-build-150576/
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay...-build-163849/

DeNomad 09-17-2011 11:07 PM

4. Drill holes to mount your tower. I used large fender washers coupled with regular washers on my mounting hardware. The screws in the kit I ordered were to short so I bought some longer ones at Home Depot.
- Do not over tighten!
- If you like things really tight back up the fridge with a waterproofed piece of wood or a metal plate on the interior of the fridge.
- Do not forget to install tower gasket on top of fridge.

5. Run tubing. I added a 1" tee to the end of the pipe in the fridge. With my fan mounted in the project box with a 1-1/8" hole it the box fit snugly on the tee and blows air up the tower for cooling. I ran the lines through a 1" cap fitting with holes 1/64" smaller than the OD of the beer line. This made a pretty tight seal and makes sure air goes up the copper pipe.

Sorry no pics!

6. Drill 3-3/8" hole in fridges top plastic cover. You should mark where the cover goes before the pipe goes in.

7. Crazy glue manifold in place after you have decided where to put it. Put the kegs and CO2 bottle and everything in place before you decide to do this.


8. Pour pint, relax. I had 5' of 3/16" beer line, it is not long enough but it works at 6-8 psi around 50 F. Go buy 20' of 3/16" beer line and redo plumbing. 10' for each beer line :drunk:

Useful references for Danby kegerator builds - Thanks to those that posted this information:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/kege...ar440bl-98779/
http://picasaweb.google.com/11441661...GSKDYE1D6vvmsQ
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-k...-build-176635/
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-f...-build-150576/
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay...-build-163849/

MarcMTL 01-01-2012 07:45 PM

Good build! Looking at doing a conversion on this same model. Any reason why you didn't use the factory temperature controller?

DZello 01-02-2012 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarcMTL (Post 3618057)
Good build! Looking at doing a conversion on this same model. Any reason why you didn't use the factory temperature controller?

I have the same fridge and this temp controller is BAD.

DeNomad 01-03-2012 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarcMTL (Post 3618057)
Good build! Looking at doing a conversion on this same model. Any reason why you didn't use the factory temperature controller?

Hi Marc, I wanted to use this as a part time fermentation chamber and the factory temp controller did not go warm enough for fermentation. Besides that I think the display on that controller is easier to adjust and looks bada** :ban:

taffer 01-07-2012 12:48 AM

I was considering getting this fridge and converting it to a fermenting fridge, but don't know if my fermenter will fit. Would a fermenting bucket that is 12" at the base fit in the space between the compressor and the door?

BeachBeerBoobs 01-07-2012 03:03 AM

Any chance two ball lock cornys will fit in there?

sudsmcgee 01-07-2012 03:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeachBeerBoobs (Post 3636787)
Any chance two ball lock cornys will fit in there?

There is a picture of two fitting. Am I missing something?

starrfish 01-07-2012 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeachBeerBoobs (Post 3636787)
Any chance two ball lock cornys will fit in there?

I have same model, and yes 2 ball locks fit snuggly. I also have co2 (5lb) and a hop randal in there (or a back up paintball co2 tank.)

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/...0210112017.jpg

DeNomad 01-07-2012 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taffer (Post 3636374)
I was considering getting this fridge and converting it to a fermenting fridge, but don't know if my fermenter will fit. Would a fermenting bucket that is 12" at the base fit in the space between the compressor and the door?

I don't think so. You *might* be able to squeeze an 11" diameter bucket. Here are the dimensions I measured when I was choosing between ball lock and pin lock kegs. Since the pin locks wouldn't fit as shown below I chose ball lock.

http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/images/5.../6091-5460.jpg


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